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Old 09-18-2020, 06:29 PM
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leeklm leeklm is offline
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Default Horn button assembly?

Working on a horn assembly with missing parts... i ordered up the spring assembly here, but not sure how this piece gets assembled. Can someone point me in the right direction? Thanks!

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68 Firebird-- Street/Strip - 400/461 Eagle Forged Bottom End & Ross Flat top pistons. KRE 325 CFM D port, Ultradyne 263/271 @.050, .4267 lift. Crower Solid roller lifters and 1.65 stainless rockers. Quickfuel 1000 on Torker2 intake and 2" open spacer. Hedman 1.75" headers. TH400 w/brake. Ford 9" w/3.80 gears & 28x9 Hoosier pro bracket drag radial. Best ET: 1.35 60ft, 6.29 @ 107.20 mph, 9.99 @132.33 mph. 3,300 race weight
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Old 09-19-2020, 09:36 AM
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leeklm leeklm is offline
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I think I figured it out... the black locking piece was throwing me off. I noticed that some of the cancel cams are notched at the end to allow the locking tab to hold the spring and pin in place. The 64-66 cam shown at AMES does not have the locking notch, so appears that the spring and pin just free float with the steering wheel and horn button holding it down.

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68 Firebird-- Street/Strip - 400/461 Eagle Forged Bottom End & Ross Flat top pistons. KRE 325 CFM D port, Ultradyne 263/271 @.050, .4267 lift. Crower Solid roller lifters and 1.65 stainless rockers. Quickfuel 1000 on Torker2 intake and 2" open spacer. Hedman 1.75" headers. TH400 w/brake. Ford 9" w/3.80 gears & 28x9 Hoosier pro bracket drag radial. Best ET: 1.35 60ft, 6.29 @ 107.20 mph, 9.99 @132.33 mph. 3,300 race weight
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Old 09-19-2020, 11:35 AM
66sprint6 66sprint6 is offline
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A couple things:
There needs to be a collar, like that black piece. It holds and guides the post so that the post touches the contact area on the back of the horn switch. The one that coincides with the cancel cam you have there presses in. I'm not sure if it's still avaiable. I don't see it on our host's site.

https://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/pro...-contact/33171

So I'm not sure if you can cut that tang off the black collar and make it work. Another thing that I've heard, with the black collar and post, is that you may have to cut the post for length with side cutters, so that it doesn't forcefully bottom out in the cancel cam.

Note that when I pressed my contact in, it was too short to contact the back of my horn switch. I had to pull it out about an eighth of an inch and Crazy Glue it there so that the post would touch the horn switch. I hope that helps.

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