[Mean Green]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

Right Stuff to the rescue, and I really mean it this time. That good for nothing sealer may have actually saved your engine. A once in a million chance. I would be buying a lottery ticket!!

The oil pan on this engine was glued on with a huge amount of Right Stuff. It was a pain in the *** to get it apart. I thought I did a very thorough job of getting it cleaned up without any of it falling in the engine, but obviously not.

I'm not a fan of it, I'll stick with Ultra Grey.

[Mean Green]

Originally Posted by AG

What do you think happened to the pushrods?

It was my fault. I originally adjusted the valves like I always have, setting lash on the base circle. Car ran great.

Someone told me I was doing it wrong and I was leaving power on the table. That I should use the EOIC method. So I Googled it, and every video I watched and forum post I read said EOIC was the proper way to adjust a solid cam.

So I adjusted them that way. Car ran great at first, next day it didn't. Pulled the valve covers and a found a couple of loose rockers, the lash caps fell out.

Thought maybe I forgot to tighten a couple of poly locks. Re-adjusted using the EOIC method again, but this time I made sure to torque every polylock. Ran great, than it didn't, again. Same thing, a couple of loose rockers and a couple of lash caps fell out.

Went back to adjusting the valves the way I always have, with some reassurance from Paul K, and it has run great ever since.

[Mr Anonymous]

EOIC as I learnt tit:

exhaust when intake is half closed
Intake when exhaust starts to open

I suppose the bigger the cam is, the more precise you have to be using that method. My cam is 280/285@.050, .835/.748, never any problem with them backing off.

[Scott Stoneburg]

Originally Posted by Mr Anonymous

EOIC as I learnt tit:

exhaust when intake is half closed
Intake when exhaust starts to open

I suppose the bigger the cam is, the more precise you have to be using that method. My cam is 280/285@.050, .835/.748, never any problem with them backing off.

I use this method, never have any issues

[Mean Green]

Originally Posted by Mr Anonymous

EOIC as I learnt tit:

exhaust when intake is half closed
Intake when exhaust starts to open

I suppose the bigger the cam is, the more precise you have to be using that method. My cam is 280/285@.050, .835/.748, never any problem with them backing off.

My cam is smaller than yours.

I never heard of that method until 3 weeks ago. Apparently it works in most situations, but it didn't work with my cam, so I'm going to stick with my way.

The way I see it, if the cam calls for .020 lash (or whatever), there should never be a point where there is more than .020 clearance. Which ever way you get to that point shouldn't matter.

[GTOGEORGE]

Originally Posted by Mr Anonymous

EOIC as I learnt tit:

exhaust when intake is half closed
Intake when exhaust starts to open

I suppose the bigger the cam is, the more precise you have to be using that method. My cam is 280/285@.050, .835/.748, never any problem with them backing off.

Ditto! Works for me.


GTO George

[Mean Green]

Originally Posted by Geoff

What brand chain is it?

Rollmaster

[Geoff]

Some RM sets were using Rolon timing chains. I have one in the cupboard, still in the box, free to whoever wants it. Says 'Rolon' one side, 'India' on the other side...

[Skip Fix]

That is the only way I do it and one cylinder at a time so I do not forget one. But Exhaust as intake is closing. You want to be as far away from overlap as you can. If intake is about to close it is close to compression before firing so exhaust should be on base circle. Exahust opening shoudl be way away form overalp as that happens as exhaust is closing to scavenge and pull intake charge into cylinder.