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#61
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I paid $30 for my cheapo variable speed 4" grinder at Lowe's. After that, the only thing (bodywork-wise) I needed my compressor for was spraying primer. The grinder is also great for cutting sheetmetal with a cutting disc., grinding welds down with a grinding disc, etc. VERY useful tool and not very expensive.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#62
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Yup, very useful tool. Many attachments to put on it for cutting, grinding or sanding. But.. be very careful, probably the scariest tool too. Can do some major damage in a hurry (and I am not talking about the car...).
She is looking great Greg.
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Send it! It’s going home on a trailer. |
#63
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I bought the Ryobi 4" grinder at Home Depot for $39. I've beaten the fool out of it, and it's like new. However, I can do even more damage with some of my other tools, like the buffing wheel! You probably already know this, Codyyy, but don't buy the $15 4" grinder at Harbor Freight. It's a POS.
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Bob "It won't take long, and it won't cost much." |
#64
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I'm doing some good damage to this whole paint deal with aircraft stripper and lots of razor blades but it isn't what I'm used to doing. I'll need to save my money to buy a decent air compressor and I'm thinking of using Kirker primer. I read up about Eastwood's stuff and I guess it's the same as Kirker anyway. I want a decent paint job on this car but I've never painted a car before, so I don't want to get expensive. Basically I want to do this once and do it right but still have it go easy on the wallet. In the next few days I'm gonna pull out the 350 and trans and then perhaps clean the frame up and maybe box it, although I feel that the body will be the hardest thing to do and I'd rather get the hard stuff done first and then easy stuff later. I still haven't found any 400s around here for decent prices but I can wait. |
#65
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Mike
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so many pontiacs, so little time.................. moderator is a glorified word for an unappreciated prick.................. "Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former." --Albert Einstein "There is no such thing as a good tax." "We contend that for a nation to tax itself into prosperity is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle." - Winston Churchill |
#66
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Also, does anyone have any suggestions on what to coat the body with to keep it from rusting temporarily until I get this whole primer situation sorted out? Or should I wait? I need to figure out how I'm gonna get a compressor, gun, and what primer to go with and it doesn't seem like those are gonna be cheap. I want to strip this car and get this part over with though, I'll obviously be spending a lot of time prepping the car but stripping it is the most time-consuming. |
#67
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Get a 3M throw-away mask at your local parts store (about $20), and use it. If you don't shoot over the 612/611 with a high-solids primer within 24 hours, you will have to sand it prior to recoat, but that's not a big deal. Your mission here is to keep the bare metal from rusting, and you'll have bondo work to do as well before shooting a high solids primer. (Here's the web address for the Kirker data sheet that tells you how to use it: http://www.kirkerautomotive.com/images/PDF/ENDURO.pdf). Unfortunately, you'll have to spend a few bucks here, but that will be true even if you shoot it with poof cans (and completely remove all of that later). I think what I suggest here is pretty cost-effective in the long run. Good Luck!
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Bob "It won't take long, and it won't cost much." |
#68
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Yeah I'll probably go that route. I live down in San Diego so the rust issue isn't as bad as say, a Michigan winter, but I still would like to get all this stuff done right. I just hate the stripping of the body part and would rather get that over with.
It just seems like there is a small window of time to where I can strip the body, get the primer in order and spray the primer and then maybe paint it as well so I'd like to get everything ready at the same time. |
#69
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i've had bad luck with the durability of Kirker products in the past. That being said Epoxy it now and you can scuff it and bondo over it with no issues.
In the end, do it once, do it right, and be done with it regardless of whose products you use. Mike
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so many pontiacs, so little time.................. moderator is a glorified word for an unappreciated prick.................. "Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former." --Albert Einstein "There is no such thing as a good tax." "We contend that for a nation to tax itself into prosperity is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle." - Winston Churchill |
#70
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I'm debating if I should strip the car and take it to someone who knows what they are doing to properly prime and paint it, perhaps help out too so I can learn how to do it. It just seems intimidating, it's a pretty expensive thing to do right and easy to screw up it seems. I'll figure it out.
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#71
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Have you thought about taking a class at a Tech school and using it as a project?
MIke
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so many pontiacs, so little time.................. moderator is a glorified word for an unappreciated prick.................. "Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former." --Albert Einstein "There is no such thing as a good tax." "We contend that for a nation to tax itself into prosperity is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle." - Winston Churchill |
#72
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I tried taking an ROP class last year on auto body but the class filled up before I could register. It's fine though because I took the welding class instead. However the ROP idea is a good one.
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#73
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Just think of it as protecting the metal between repairs. Primer is nothing like multiple coats of old paint when it comes to removing it for whatever reason. Biggest hassle is the many times you may have to cleanup your painting equipment between sessions.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#74
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After briefly looking online for local quotes on air compressors, I think I'll just buy a used one. I figure once I'm done using the compressor I could probably sell it for what I got it for. I'd like an older one if I could, I found a real nice 50 gallon Brunner for $115 so I might buy it if it is still available.
I'll strip the body and put epoxy on for now. |
#75
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Bob "It won't take long, and it won't cost much." |
#76
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Well today I got the engine and trans pulled out of the car. I'm happy to say it went smoothly despite it being only a one-man thing and thus took a lot longer than I expected. I didn't drop anything or hurt myself in the process so I feel accomplished.
I also went up to the Sherwin Williams Automotive Paint place and got a quote on paint, it would be about $600 for all of the materials from epoxy primer all the way to the clear coat. Not bad since Eastwood I calculated about $600-700 for their two-stage stuff and about $400-500 for their single stage. However I am still debating on if I should do the prep and have it painted or what. Also, I think I've narrowed the color down to three choices: Nightwatch Blue, Aleutian Blue or Brazen Orange. I wish I was better at Photoshop so I could get an idea on the Nightwatch Blue or Brazen Orange on this car. |
#77
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For ideas on color, go to http://ultimategto.com, the ultimate GTO picture site.
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Bob "It won't take long, and it won't cost much." |
#78
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Yeah that's where I was looking at the Aleutian Blue cars and the other colors. I just don't see any Brazen Orange '68-72s or Nightwatch Blue ones so it's kinda hard to tell.
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#79
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Nightwatch blue is really a dark color. The car on my avatar is indigo blue which is a Chevy pickup color. It's my favorite all time color and easy to match.
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1964 Catalina 1968 GTO 1997 GMC 2004 GTO |
#80
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I second that, my chevelle is the same color. I picked the color because its the same as my dad's 99 silverado which I really like.
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-Jeremy 1968 GTO 4-spd convertible, console, factory gauges, hidden headlights, 3.90:1 posi, AM/FM radio. 1962 Catalina convertible, Starlight black w maroon interior & white top. |
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