[Formulafr]

i'm looking for better brake for my formula, but what are the best brake rotor on standard diameter? drilled or slotted? cast iron?

[Formulafr]

no idea ??

[Ron H]

I have non powered single piston cast caliper and standard 11" x 1" rotors. SSBC says 30% better braking going to a slotted/cross drilled rotor and 2 piston aluminum caliper from these.

[red76TA]

only thing ive heard is that cross drilled and slotted rotors are weak
but id guess that they bought some cheapo ones
they look good though
try vette braking and performance (vb&p)
they should have something in stock size and definately could point you in the right direction

[Brett_ty]

I have heard that x-drilled and slotted are weak as well, but seems that I have never talked to anyone with any first hand experience. Seems that everyone always says "I heard....." I would love to hear anyone that has some exp with the structural integrity of X drilled and slotted Rotars as I am right now about 99% sure that I am going with some Raybestos Durastop X Drilled and slotted.

[jfmjr1]

I installed the mpbrakes crossed drilled and slotted rotors on my 442 along with ceramic pads. Made a world of difference in stopping power. The ceramic pads are a little grabby when cold, but after a few miles and they are heated up, they stop great. I think the issue with crossed drilled and slotted having what amounts to heat cracks is for those who are really working the brakes hard over and over again. Like on a road course. I don't drive my muscle cars to the edge, so I believe the risk of cracks is small. Been on my car for 2+ years with no issues

I used this kit for $395, includes rotors, bearings, seals, new hoses, new calipers, brake fluid and pads.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/products/pro...product_id=599

John

[Bandit400]

I have had firsthand experience with drilled/slotted rotors, both in my hobbies and my work. (Auto tech). In my experience, unless it is a high quality rotor, with the proper countersunk drilled holes, cracks will usually develop. I am active with '94-'96 GM B-bodies, and they use very similar braking designs to our cars, and there are pages on their boards regarding cracked rotors from this. Granted, the rotors do not fall aprt, but cracks connecting the holes is enough to scare me. I'd say you would be ok as long as they are high quality, but on the other hand, has anyone seen any hard evidence that slots/holes improve stopping distances? I seem to remember that they came originally on old racecars to allow outgassing of the old style pads, and that since those pads are no longer used, it is kind of useless as far as pure functionality goes. That's just what I heard though, I'm sure someone who knows more than me will chime in. HTH

[TransAm525]

I agree with what jfmjr1 states. I went with the Raybestos Brute Stop brake rotors ($80 each), which are slotted and cross-drilled. The rotors bolt right on in place of the originals. The cross-dilled holes have a chamfer to reduce the possibility of cracking. Unless you plan to road race your vehicle, the cross-drilled and slotted rotors will be fine. Any type of cast-iron rotor, regardless if it's cross-drilled or not, will start cracking when subjected to extreme heat then rapidly cooled like in racing conditions.

[red76TA]

i beleive slotting is for getting the dust off the rotor and the holes are for cooling. theyre not suppose to grab better but are made to stop better time after time, aka racing. they look good tho thats for sure

[Scarebird]

Originally Posted by TransAm525

The cross-dilled holes have a chamfer to reduce the possibility of cracking... ...Any type of cast-iron rotor, regardless if it's cross-drilled or not, will start cracking when subjected to extreme heat then rapidly cooled like in racing conditions.

The issue is chamfering the inside rims of the holes, where the venti ribbing is. Cross-drilling is overrated- slot will work fine.

[Brett_ty]

Originally Posted by TransAm525

I agree with what jfmjr1 states. I went with the Raybestos Brute Stop brake rotors ($80 each), which are slotted and cross-drilled. The rotors bolt right on in place of the originals. The cross-dilled holes have a chamfer to reduce the possibility of cracking. Unless you plan to road race your vehicle, the cross-drilled and slotted rotors will be fine. Any type of cast-iron rotor, regardless if it's cross-drilled or not, will start cracking when subjected to extreme heat then rapidly cooled like in racing conditions.

TA525
These are the same Rotors that I am looking at getting for my 67 GTO as well as some Wagner Ceramic Pads. How long you had these on? they any good?How did you "mate" and "Bed" your pads/rotors? Did you do the 60 MPH to 10MPH severe breaking 5-6 times? or did you just get in and drive and let them break in driving normally?
I was looking at some corvette forums that discussed this whole concept of "Mating and Bedding" new pads to rotors and would like to hear how others do it.

[Formulafr]

Originally Posted by Brett_ty

I have heard that x-drilled and slotted are weak as well, but seems that I have never talked to anyone with any first hand experience. Seems that everyone always says "I heard....." I would love to hear anyone that has some exp with the structural integrity of X drilled and slotted Rotars

me too

Originally Posted by jfmjr1

I used this kit for $395, includes rotors, bearings, seals, new hoses, new calipers, brake fluid and pads.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/products/pro...product_id=599

price and quality seems to be good

Originally Posted by red76TA

i beleive slotting is for getting the dust off the rotor and the holes are for cooling. theyre not suppose to grab better but are made to stop better time after time, aka racing. they look good tho thats for sure

yes, like on motorbike. slotted is for dust and rain. holes are for cooling and for getting more corrosive with pads.

[TransAm525]

I'm afraid I won't be able to answer your question until October. I haven't driven the car since I installed the rotors and brake pads (finishing the restoration). As far as breaking the pads/rotors in, I live in the Washington D.C. area, so a little normal driving in traffic will break the pads/rotors in fine. If you search the internet you will find a procedure for breaking pads/rotors in (http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm), but I feel the procedure makes little difference for a street car. The main concern is making sure the parts are correct, installed correctly, clean when installed, and in working order (no stuck caliper pistons, rusted pins, etc.).

[red76TA]

ive always done a couple of stops 40 -0 getting harder and harder with each stop till
ive seen on tv that 100-0 for race brakes, but im not really sure were you could do that

[Brett_ty]

When you live out in the middle of the Mohave desert, you can get some wicked speed up on long, car-less straight aways.

[red76TA]

"we were somewhere outside of barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold"
yea i might like to live in the desert someday

[Brett_ty]

A report that I installed the Raybestos Durastop rotors (slotted/drilled) with some Wagner Thermoquite pads this weekend...Went out and bedded them in on Sat...took it out on about an 80 mile drive today (sun)...they work great!! no more annoying squeel, great stopping (notable stopping improvement). Reccomend this set-up.

[Brett_ty]

Huh?

Who you quoting?

Originally Posted by red76TA

"we were somewhere outside of barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold"
yea i might like to live in the desert someday

[Pontirag]

Alot of websites describe the ornimentation on disc rotors as just that. new good quality brake pads eliminate the need to out gas. Clean the rotors? OK but doesn't the pad rubbing on the rotor do that already? My '65 convertable is not a weekend mudbogger so your needs may differ.

Praise Dyno brakes offers cryogenically treated disc and drums. you could go with some sort of thermal coatings advertised elseware. I would start with the best, not chinese kaka, and go from there. $80.00 for raybestos brute strength sounds like a good start.

This whole thing about cracking disc's is a bunch of BS. brakes should not crack under normal service. period. look in your owners manual at the wagon full of smiling kids and the suit cases on top and the camper/boat hauled behind. Then think "warrenty". Are you really using your brakes harder than that? OK Maybe so

the bottom line is or rather the point is that most of us dont drive at the limit. those of us who do rarely do it for sustained periods of time. We are installing an upgraded brake system on a car that had drums all around from the git go. remember the smiling kids /camper/boat warrenty senario above and recall that we are improving upon that! should our brake disc's crack. No not if they are the best possible product available. You wont get that from a brake parts clearing house full of generic one size fits all "Disc installation kits" disc rotors that all they need to do is drill a different boly pattern on the rotor to fit GM, Ford or Chrysler.

Has anybody ever asked where the source for these brakes are coming from. I have. Most vendors will not answer.Very Few will admit they come from China.More still will lie and say its all USA stuff. Yea Right!

You think you are protected by high price? not a chance. I've seen disc brake sets that cost 1100 bucks a kit and the rotors are the same as the ones I can buy locally for 38.00 each. Made in China. Oh but the bling . Beutifully drilled holes. carvings of this and that. For that kind of money I want dear jumping over fence lines of my estate carved into the disc and I could possibly get it! But what BS, its not needed or recomended. I read an interview with Mr Baer (SP?) and he said almost exactly that. Holes and slots are passe. On those cheapass chinese blacksmith specials its certain to crack. Still wanna take your GTO mudboggin on the way to the lake?

Frankly I would rather install used parts that I inspect rather than new parts of an unknown source. I'm very easy on brakes but still I dont mess around.

You dont have to spend megabucks to get the best, you just gotta know where to shop for it and try to make friends with your local parts guy. My parts guy will not sell chit to me at any price. Even if it means going to another store. he always gives me the jobber discount. He knows what I'm building.For over 5 years I've promissed hime a ride in it. You can bet that after I pay to put braces on his kids teeth, college tuition and his house payments, he has as mutch faith as i do that he will ride in my car and stop too.

[jfmjr1]

Originally Posted by Brett_ty

TA525
These are the same Rotors that I am looking at getting for my 67 GTO as well as some Wagner Ceramic Pads. How long you had these on? they any good?How did you "mate" and "Bed" your pads/rotors? Did you do the 60 MPH to 10MPH severe breaking 5-6 times? or did you just get in and drive and let them break in driving normally?
I was looking at some corvette forums that discussed this whole concept of "Mating and Bedding" new pads to rotors and would like to hear how others do it.

this set up has been on my 442 for about 2 years now. When I installed them, I did do the bedding process, its actually fun to do. I tend to agree that the original disc brake set up is fine, however, I needed new rotors (old ones were warped, couldn't be turned) and my original calipers were sticking, so i decided to slightly upgrade from the original. On my 65 GTO, I installed a stock disc setup, and it performs great, but I think the MP setup stops the 442 a little quicker. The 442 is a heavier car (70 convetible) and it stops on a dime. The GTO stops very well, but not quite as hard. The difference may only be the pads, ceramic on the 442 and stockers on the GTO.

Either way, discs are way better than drums!!!

John