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Old 11-13-2008, 09:00 PM
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Exclamation Is your car running hot? Please read this!

I was having problems with my new 455

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=578806

lo and behold, Screamingchief solved the problem for me - read his post#5. My Firebird had the same problem (runs hot in stop and go traffic, if I'm on the freeway she sits at 190* all day long) and sure enough, the top of the hose sits above the radiator cap. With both cars, I often thought it was something small I was missing...sure enough it was.

My LeMans runs all day long at 190* now, and I'm STOKED!!!

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Old 11-14-2008, 07:55 AM
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EXCELLENT! We should all take a look at our systems. Just one more reason here to give thanks for all the experience we have available on this forum

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Old 11-14-2008, 08:24 AM
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My 400 started to get progressively hotter and hotter. I had adapted a chevy victor pump which temporarily cured the heating problem, ran 3 thermo fans then last of all, had an alloy radiator....... which I found was blocked after cutting the top tank off!

Wish my problem was as easy to fix hahaha

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Old 11-14-2008, 07:35 PM
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After seeing my top hose was higher than the radiator cap, I went out and fixed it today. I cut the hose about 4"s shorter and now it's lower than the cap. As soon as it quits raining here, I'll get her out on the road and check it out. It never dawned on me to think about the top hose and heating issue going hand in hand.

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Old 11-15-2008, 03:49 PM
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After seeing my top hose was higher than the radiator cap, I went out and fixed it today. I cut the hose about 4"s shorter and now it's lower than the cap. As soon as it quits raining here, I'll get her out on the road and check it out. It never dawned on me to think about the top hose and heating issue going hand in hand.
Please post the results, good or bad. Thanks!

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Old 11-15-2008, 08:39 PM
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My 79 Cad 425 has a factory hose that has a hump 4" higher than the Tstat housing. Its been that way since 1978 and has never overheated.

But... it does have a closed system coolant overflow as do all cars in that era, which helps with removing air. There may be some accomodations in the Cadillac water system for that big hump in the water hose that Im not aware of but I think the in-out overflow is what does the trick

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Old 11-15-2008, 10:13 PM
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Paul, I'll get back on the results as soon as I can. It's been raining so much and so hard today.... high of 70 degrees and super wet here. As soon as the roads are dry, I'll have her out to see how it turned out.

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Old 11-16-2008, 07:04 PM
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The top of my radiator hose is about 2" higher then the top of my radiator cap so change is required. The bottom of the radiator hose is about 1" from the top of my alternator so I can lower the hose but not as much as I would like. Has anyone else had this problem?

Mark

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Old 11-16-2008, 08:11 PM
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MK, it might depend on the year and the alternator bracket. But, you could try a little bit bigger atlernator belt so the alt is moved over and out of the way. Then the top hose wouldn hit it. I did it with mine. I cut almost 4's off my top radiator hose at the water neck. The hose is now below the cap and doesn't touch the alternator.

One word of caution when you cut your hose. Do it on an angle so you have enough to go over the waterneck and you can clamp it down properly. I almost screwed the pooch and had to get another hose. When you hold the hose up to the neck before you cut it you'll see what I mean.

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Old 11-16-2008, 08:19 PM
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Paul, I'll get back on the results as soon as I can. It's been raining so much and so hard today.... high of 70 degrees and super wet here. As soon as the roads are dry, I'll have her out to see how it turned out.
Some of that out here sure would help with these fires...

My LeMans is running consistently at 190* and I'm stoked!

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Old 11-16-2008, 08:43 PM
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Now I have to run out to the COLD garage and check my upper hose. Interestingly mine runs hot on the highway and cools down around town. The again I have only 3K on the new motor and running 10W40 Rotella in it, maybe still not broken in all the way. Wondering of Mobil 1 5W-30 has enough zinc?

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Old 11-16-2008, 08:52 PM
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Now I have to run out to the COLD garage and check my upper hose. Interestingly mine runs hot on the highway and cools down around town. The again I have only 3K on the new motor and running 10W40 Rotella in it, maybe still not broken in all the way. Wondering of Mobil 1 5W-30 has enough zinc?
That's just the opposite of the problem I was having - perhaps you've got something else going on???

Rotella is great stuff, that's all I'm ever going to run in my motors. Broke in the 455 with it and did the oil change at 500 miles, car runs strong!

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Old 11-16-2008, 09:19 PM
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Rotella is great stuff, that's all I'm ever going to run in my motors. !
Delo 400 is better in my opinion - keep in mind diesel oil has alot more cleaners (detergents) in it and probably looks dirty much faster.

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  #14  
Old 11-17-2008, 01:29 PM
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Paul, I hope you guys get the rain you need to put out those fires,

I took the old gal out this morning for a run.... GTO not the wife. LOL I was in and out of traffic, stop and go, plus I'd stopped and saw a couple of friends. Temp stayed at 160 al the time driving, yep 16o thermostat with a 4lb cap. A 10 or 13lb cap could probably be ok, tho a 15lb radiator cap is the standard I believe. So as of this moment it looks like the radiator hose fix cured my overheating. And boy do I feel better. Gotts add that the temp here was in the high 40s, so I'm not sure what will happen in warmer weather. But it looks to be ok for now. We'll have to resurect this thread next spring.

As for oil, I'm running Valvoline VR1 20-50 as recommended, and all is well with that so far. Sorry but I won't run oil made for desiel engines ever again. I went that route with my 79 Formula and it caused engine bearing problems. And at the dealer where I bought it they said to stay away from that stuff.... it's not for gas engines. But that's me and I'm not saying anyone eslse should stay away from it. Use what you want.. it's your choice.

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Old 11-17-2008, 04:46 PM
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Paul, I hope you guys get the rain you need to put out those fires,

I took the old gal out this morning for a run.... GTO not the wife. LOL I was in and out of traffic, stop and go, plus I'd stopped and saw a couple of friends. Temp stayed at 160 al the time driving, yep 16o thermostat with a 4lb cap. A 10 or 13lb cap could probably be ok, tho a 15lb radiator cap is the standard I believe. So as of this moment it looks like the radiator hose fix cured my overheating. And boy do I feel better. Gotts add that the temp here was in the high 40s, so I'm not sure what will happen in warmer weather. But it looks to be ok for now. We'll have to resurect this thread next spring.

As for oil, I'm running Valvoline VR1 20-50 as recommended, and all is well with that so far. Sorry but I won't run oil made for desiel engines ever again. I went that route with my 79 Formula and it caused engine bearing problems. And at the dealer where I bought it they said to stay away from that stuff.... it's not for gas engines. But that's me and I'm not saying anyone eslse should stay away from it. Use what you want.. it's your choice.
Glad to hear the GTO's running a bit cooler. No doubt the cold air helped, but I'm willing to bet the trimmed down hose was a major contributor.

Regarding oil, the builder next door to me recommends Rotella and there was a great article in HPP or Hemmings (I forget) and they both gave Rotella the thumbs up, so that was my reasoning.

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Old 11-17-2008, 09:01 PM
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Regarding oil, the builder next door to me recommends Rotella and there was a great article in HPP or Hemmings (I forget) and they both gave Rotella the thumbs up, so that was my reasoning.
Thanks Paul, I sure hope the trimmed down hose is the answer to the problem.

As for the oil, I'm only going by my experience with 15-40. Which wasn't good at all. I'm glad tho it's working for everyone else that's using it.

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  #17  
Old 11-17-2008, 09:41 PM
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After replacing defective lifters that Summit sent me .I started my new motor again to rebreak in the cam last nite.It overheated twice.
I came in and read your post i found on the search engine.Today I pulled the upper rad hose down as much as possible.It is still higher due to Alt Bracket.However I sealed a Funnel to the Rad neck and filled it to the top.Then started the car .After it warmed up I massaged the upper hose to burp the air out .I turned the heater on and did the same with those hoses.All the time with the funnel in place .then replaced cap.I left the car run at 2000 Rpm for 45 minutes and it never got above first line on gauge about 160F
I THINK IT WORKED!
cant drive yet weather related its a frame off over 2 yrs in the process

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Old 11-17-2008, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 1970gpsj4speed View Post
After replacing defective lifters that Summit sent me .I started my new motor again to rebreak in the cam last nite.It overheated twice.
I came in and read your post i found on the search engine.Today I pulled the upper rad hose down as much as possible.It is still higher due to Alt Bracket.However I sealed a Funnel to the Rad neck and filled it to the top.Then started the car .After it warmed up I massaged the upper hose to burp the air out .I turned the heater on and did the same with those hoses.All the time with the funnel in place .then replaced cap.I left the car run at 2000 Rpm for 45 minutes and it never got above first line on gauge about 160F
I THINK IT WORKED!
cant drive yet weather related its a frame off over 2 yrs in the process
I love hearing stuff like that! Like I said, I often thought it was something minor...

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Old 11-18-2008, 05:56 PM
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My hose sits at least four inches above the radiator cap in my 68 full size wagon, but I have never had an overheating problem with either a 180 or 195 t-stat. If I adjust the timing it will run hotter as I retard it or disconnect the vacuum advance.

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Old 11-19-2008, 04:03 AM
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J Jamnik,
I'm on your side. I cannot see how a hose that sits too high will cause overheating because of so called trapped air. Cars that did not use rad o'flow bottles were filled to about 1/2" to 1" below the cap to allow for expansion at operating temperature. These cars ran just fine with the air space. Top hose higher than the top tank? Why wouldn't the air space in the top hose be considered as one air space with the air in the top tank, as they share a connected passage way.

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