[270win]

Thanks...

Okay, well the engine and transmission are out. Found some wierd things about the flexplate, someone blew out big freakin' holes in the bolt holes...and for some reason there's a pilot bearing in the crank??? Also, the harmonic balancer litterally fell off of the crank snout...never seen that before.

I'll post some pics tonight. The transmission gets dropped off the shop to be overhauled tomorrow...it looks and works fine but at this point I'm not assuming anything.

[270win]

I'm glad to be tearing into this car now...I'm a bit concerned about all the other skeletons I'm SURE are to be discovered. Someone did a great job of half @$$ rigging this car together. When I get done with it, it'll be right.

Check out the flex plate! I have no idea what the genius that did this was trying to accomplish?!?!?!


And anyone see anything weird about this picture?...it's in an automatic car...So I have no idea what the deal is with the engine internals. No matter, it's all getting replaced...just more 1/2 done rigging.


Here's the stuff that really pisses me off though. These holes all line up perfectly, but some idiot decided it would be a good idea to weld (and they did a really crappy job at it too) the bumper brackets to the frame!!!




I just KNOW the body is going to be full of mud when it's time to start stripping for paint...again, whatever. I've figured one thing out though, if I'm buying a car to keep, the next time it will be a basket case that I know is a piece of $h!t before I start on it... This way there are no surprises.

Don't get me wrong, still love the car...it's gonna be a nice one eventually!

[PaulatFast]

the pilot bearing is no big deal, all the cranks are drilled for them, obviously at some point there was a manual trans behind that crank.
Why bubba welded the bumper brackets to the frame is a question we'll never answer...

[270win]

Originally Posted by PaulatFast

the pilot bearing is no big deal, all the cranks are drilled for them, obviously at some point there was a manual trans behind that crank.
Why bubba welded the bumper brackets to the frame is a question we'll never answer...

You're right, the pilot bearing is no biggie, its a roller bearing so it's a newer bearing. The car has never had a manual transmission in it so the crank is obviously a replacement crank from another car. The older pilot bearings are a brass bushing rather than a roller bearing.

That flex plate had two different bolt patterns on it and the converter was actually bolted through the blown out holes. It never made any weird noises or anything...

Yeah, the frame/bumper bracket welds are "bubba engineering" for sure. I have no idea why this was done instead of using bolts...like I said, the holes line up perfectly.

[68addict]

I just KNOW the body is going to be full of mud when it's time to start stripping for paint...again, whatever. I've figured one thing out though, if I'm buying a car to keep, the next time it will be a basket case that I know is a piece of $h!t before I start on it... This way there are no surprises.

Don't get me wrong, still love the car...it's gonna be a nice one eventually!


This is why I bought a basket case....I don't like surprises!!!!! Well, I did get a surprise, car turned out to be an HO car!

[270win]

Well the thing that really bothers me is that I told myself before I was even thinking about buying this car. That I would buy a car that needs everything rather than a car that's already had work done on it. The last Nova I did was a big learning lesson and that's the car I sold to buy this one.

But, at least i've already been driving the car and know more of what I want it to be.

[PaulatFast]

Both pilot bearings and bushings have been used since these cars were new... and before, just FYI.

[270win]

Originally Posted by PaulatFast

Both pilot bearings and bushings have been used since these cars were new... and before, just FYI.

Really?!?! Of all the old cars I've done I've never seen a pilot bearing in an old car, only the bushings...learn something new every day. Thanks!

Working on the hideaways today. The right actuator is completely missing. I'm replacing both actuators, all the vacuum tubing and all of the connectors. It looks like a fairly simple system.

[270win]

I dropped off the transmission...ordered a 3K stall converter. I also took the A/C condenser and dryer to a local shop to be serviced. I decided that I don't want to take off the front end again any time soon.

I disassembled the hideaways and boxed everything to go to the sand blasting cabinet tomorrow. Once everything is cleaned and painted I'll re-plumb and reassemble the whole front end...I also have to wait for the condenser to come back. Once that's in I'll mount and plumb the transmission cooler as well.

I also removed and fixed the welded on parts of the bumper brackets. I did find one bracket that was broken and someone tried to fix it...they didn't do a good job but they tried. Here's the broken part, I already re-welded it but didn't take a pic.

before-

after removal and cleanup-


Before-

cutting it free-

removed and cleaned up

just before pulling the condenser

the back of the endura-


So far, the deeper I look, the more solid the car looks...only very light surface rust if any at all.

[270win]

I heard from the shop today that the condenser was in great shape and the dryer was good but I wanted a new one installed. I'll pick them up tomorrow.

I took the heads to the engine shop today. The block will go in a week or so, they're looking into cams and rotating assemblies or possibly stroker kits.

I also took some miscellaneous parts and hardware to the airport to bead blast them clean. I'll start cleaning, repainting and detailing the engine compartment tomorrow as well as the newly blasted parts....once that's done I'll begin the re-assembling process on the front end.

[Simple Man]

That'll be a beautiful ride when you're done with it. I can only hope my 68 turns out half as good!

[270win]

Thanks Simple Man, I appreciate the encouraging words. I get impatient so I have to keep reminding myself that this will take time to complete to my liking!


Okay, I ended up breaking down the block instead of painting on Friday.

Turns out the crank is Nodular-

But I never did check it see if it was standard or -.010 or more. I'll be taking it to the engine shop this week to have them take a quick peek at it.

Also, the cylinder bores were okay...the marks in them are not bad enough to feel with your finger nails...but the pics look bad to me. Engine guy say he needs to see it so he can check it this week too.


Here's his latest monster, it's a 557cube 9:1 monster that made 786hp on 93 octane pump gas...no boost, no juice, just cubes...
here it is on the dyno-


Closer...

[270win]

It turns out that the crank can be polished out and it is standard/standard. He'll look at the block tomorrow. I'm debating whether to build a stock appearing stroker or build it as a 400...modified, but still a 400. It would be an easy choice if the crank were no good...

[270win]

It turns out that the block is in great shape, the bores are good and will hone clean in two passes so it can stay .030 over. I was glad to hear that, so now the block is being de-burred at the engine shop, then it goes to the machine shop to be cleaned up and prepped for re-assembly.

After conferring with Kaase yesterday about which way to go with the motor, I decided to stroke it. We're going 4.25" stroke with 4.150" bores. I wanted 450hp and over 500 ft.lbs., and the best thing about stroking it is that it will exceed my goals for HP/TQ and still be a relatively mild, low rpm, roller motor that should last a long time on the street. We're going with a fully forged balanced rotating assembly, ARP everything, studded mains, Cometic gaskets...we're waiting for flow numbers on the heads to come up with a grind on the cam.

I'm debating on intake and carburetor. I like the QJets that Cliff builds, but they're pretty expensive and it takes a good 6 months to get them. I've got a wicked race prepped mechanical secondary 750 Holley that flows 830 cfm. It went low 11's on a Chevy 406 in a full body Chevelle, but I would need an intake.

Also, with the low end grunt of the stroker motor I'll have to swap out the carrier/ring/pinion in the rear end too. I'm thinking 3.23 gears now. The rear end is a big 12 bolt from a 68 Chevelle. I should have the 400TH back next week. It's being built up by a local racing transmission guru that Kaase's shop recommended. He's doing a street/strip build that he says will shift comfortably at mild throttle and hard under aggressive throttle.

So that's the latest, I'll be washing the engine bay and underside of the car today so it can dry out over the weekend. I've got to start painting, wiring and detailing the engine bay and re-assembling the front end in preparation for the engine and trans.

[270win]

I ordered a Q-Jet from Cliff today. I also have started ordering little odd pieces for detailing the engine compartment. I'm trying to figure out the layout of the hide-away vacuum system. Mainly how it gets vacuum from the engine.

I'm also looking for a steering box to enhance the steering response. I'm wondering if there are any direct bolt in, quick ratio, replacements available for the factory box. I don't want a $600 aftermarket setup, it needs to look factory. I'm also having new PS lines made with steel braid lines.

I'm hoping to clean the engine bay this week so I can start painting.

[Half-Inch Stud]

Try as you can to reuse all the Upper MAIN Bearings, and the Upper & Lower #4 Thrust bearing. You will thank me year-to-year as they fit better-than-new. They have to inspect well. HIS

[270win]

Originally Posted by Half-Inch Stud

Try as you can to reuse all the Upper MAIN Bearings, and the Upper & Lower #4 Thrust bearing. You will thank me year-to-year as they fit better-than-new. They have to inspect well. HIS

They are replacement bearings anyway...and they were improperly torqued so they're in bad shape.

[GTOBOB]

Originally Posted by PaulatFast

...
Why bubba welded the bumper brackets to the frame is a question we'll never answer...

Bolts are expensive (up to $5 saved here), and only post-neanderthal humans can use sophisticated tools like wrenches!

[270win]

Originally Posted by GTOBOB

Bolts are expensive (up to $5 saved here), and only post-neanderthal humans can use sophisticated tools like wrenches!

Yeah, it's funny what people do to cut corners...I can't imagine it taking less time to weld than it would to get bolts.

[270win]

In cleaning up the firewall, I'm going to a one wire alternator. What dom you think? Remove the voltage regulator and wires completely? Or repaint it and leave the wires for more original appearance?
opinions?