#61  
Old 05-20-2020, 10:16 AM
TAKerry TAKerry is offline
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That siphon is the trick of the day!
Also, if your dropping the tank you may be lucky and find a build sheet.

  #62  
Old 05-21-2020, 12:34 AM
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Great idea on the siphon method, I have an electric fuel pump, so I will just disconnect the fuel line at the carb- add a hose to the ground and pump the fuel into some gas cans. I also have an electric pump setup I use to pump the oil out of my boat for oil changes.

Which sender do I need - single line or double line. I went to order the sending unit and they have one with a single line and one with a primary and return line. My car originally had AC.

As suggested - I sprayed PB blaster on the fuel tank mounting bolts
Thanks guys for your help.

  #63  
Old 05-21-2020, 08:50 AM
Grand73Am Grand73Am is offline
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Should be a 2 line sender. There's the 3/8 supply line and the 1/4" return line on it.

Connected directly to the tank is a 5/16 vent line. So you have 3 lines of different sizes total on the car.

IMG_2926 by grand73am, on Flickr

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  #64  
Old 05-28-2020, 12:15 AM
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Default More questions.

I have removed the carpet on the dash and trim panels. The dash is good with no cracks, however, after cleaning all of the glue off, the color is thin in spots and needs to be recovered in the correct color. Also the trip pieces are light in color, as well.
Below are some photos.
I believe the correct color interior was shown earlier in this post.
Can anyone tell me what color paint or dye I need and is it locally available in a cross referenced rattle can. Color match, or paint code would be helpful.
The headliner and floor carpet are grayish in color.
Where do I go to find a paint or dye that will work and what am I looking for for a color description for the dash and trim color? I don't know if is correct but the kick panel color is a darker gray than the dash color (see second picture below).
The car is shaping up real nice, I refinished the dash bezel and installed with new tach circuit board and LED lights and all looks great.
I am waiting on a fuel sending unit so I can get the fuel gauge working again.
I have intermittent issues with the 750 holley carb #4779-7 - sometimes it runs great - other times loads up really bad and dumps fuel onto the intake manifold - from where- I don't know. I haven't researched it yet but float might be sticking or I am getting to much fuel pressure from the exterior electric fuel pump. I think I will start by putting a regulator and gauge on the system and then a carb rebuild kit.
Any ideas?

Thanks for all of your help - you guys are great

Also, I centered and mounted the shaker scoop - looks great - thanks for the help.
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  #65  
Old 05-28-2020, 01:18 AM
Aus78Formula Aus78Formula is offline
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Does the dash colour actually match anything else? Unusual that it doesn't match the dash steel, possibly already redyed, is it the grey colour coming through that matches the steel?

  #66  
Old 05-28-2020, 08:40 AM
TAKerry TAKerry is offline
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You are miles ahead of the game with that dash, it looks pretty darn good! I use SEM products for the int. plastic pieces with great success. I have a colour chart in the garage and could pinpoint what product no. you need, only Im not sure where to begin. Is the dash grey? Can you post a better pic of a bit more of the interior? I have no idea of the manufacturing process but it seems that none of the plastic ever matched exactly. Even the glove box door seems to differ in shade than the dash on a lot of cars. Console can be a shade off as well. I would prefer to paint(dye) everything so it all matches.
Its a pretty easy process, the big thing is to makes sure the surfaces are very clean, then if you can handle a spray bomb you can do the job. SEM is available at my local auto part store, if they dont have the colour I need they can usually get it in a couple of days. Less than $20 a can. 1 can should do the dash and console easily. Then you put their low lustre clear on top.

  #67  
Old 05-28-2020, 08:55 AM
Grand73Am Grand73Am is offline
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It's the gray shown in the pictures of the silver cars on the first page of this thread. I bought some SEM Presidio Gray, #15163, which was a good match. I'd just use it on all the gray parts.

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  #68  
Old 05-28-2020, 10:42 PM
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Thanks guys,

I have attached photos of the interior. I still need to cleanup some of the glue you see. You can see my newly refinished dash bezel. I polished the gauge lens - they look great for their age. I may purchase new gauge lens.

I checked locally for the SEM Presidio Gray #15163, nothing available. Is there any thing that would cross reference to a more popular local available paint?

The previous owner apparently was going to change the interior color to black with his carpeted dash and carpeted trim. I think if I keep the gray dash, it will match with whatever I decide to do for interior color. The previous owner put new black door panels, new black console and new black rear arm rests. He took out the rear seats and made it a two seater so it has no back seats and the front seats are much more comfortable then stock but they are blue. I don't know what he planned on doing with blue seats and black door panels. If there was a way to color these seats to match, I would. I have to find rear seats for sure.

So, I either have to dye or paint everything to match or go black with the door panels and trim and keep the dash and carpet two shades of gray, as stock.

I believe the headliner, floor carpet and front kick panels to be correct of the interior trim code of the car.

Your advise and help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Mark
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  #69  
Old 05-28-2020, 11:14 PM
Grand73Am Grand73Am is offline
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I got the SEM at my local PPG automotive paint supply store, since they keep some SEM products in stock. Maybe you have an auto paint store in your area that carries it.

Or most auto paint stores can mix interior paint if you provide a sample of the color you want. Or if you have a PPG auto paint store locally, you could have them mix some by the PPG code. Here's a paint chart autocolorlibrary.com that shows the 79 interior colors and their paint codes. https://www.autocolorlibrary.com/pag...HorizontalTab4 . The paint store may even have their own paint charts on hand.

Of course, unless you just want to use the original dash color, it'd be a good time to change, if there's a color you'd like better for your interior.

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  #70  
Old 05-28-2020, 11:58 PM
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Thanks Grand73Am,

I am not sure what I want - I just want it to look good I think. If you notice in my photo on Thread #64 the metal in front of my dash pad is a darker shade of gray then the dash pad.

The photos I attached of the dash make the dash pad appear to be almost white but it is a lighter shade of gray then the metal on top of the dash. Are they suppose to be the same color?

I was looking at the photos you sent earlier of interior pictures. It looks like the floor carpet is black - mine is gray. I cant see the headliner in those photos- mine is also a gray headliner.

Is that Presidio gray you recommend the color of the dash pad or the kick panels - It looks like in the photos you sent that the dash and kick panels (trim panels) are two different shades of gray.

Thanks for your help

  #71  
Old 05-29-2020, 09:20 AM
Grand73Am Grand73Am is offline
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The black carpet in the photo is my car. The black isn't original...it's just some carpet I had at the time. The original carpet was gray.

The interior parts of your car that are supposed to be gray are the dash, steering wheel, steering column, the kick panels, the console, the carpet, and the rear package tray. The rest of the interior, including the headliner, seats, and trim moldings should be Oyster white. The seat belts could be black, or maybe gray if color coordinated.

You said your headliner is gray. But it should be Oyster white if it's original. It would be perforated vinyl. If it's not perforated vinyl, it's not the original headliner. Oyster is an off-white, having a very slight amount of grayish to it. It might just appear gray if it's dirty. If you haven't cleaned it, it might whiten up some with a cleaning. The sunvisors should be Oyster white too.

On my car, the dash pad is a little lighter than the metal part of the dash. But I think part of that is because the dash pad gets faded by the sun over the years. I looked at the lower part of the dash pad, under the radio area, that doesn't get as much sun, and it's a little darker than the top.

I've found that the Presidio gray is a little lighter than the dash metal color, but a little darker than the dash pad. It's very close to the kick panel color and the console color. So, my opinion is that it's a good compromise for all the gray. You'll have to get a can and judge for yourself.

Or, the most accurate would be to have the color mixed from the PPG paint chart that I linked to. Looking closely at it, there's only one gray for Pontiac that suits your interior, the color called "very dark gray" #33331. And it says that when used on the instrument panel(dash) it should be also coated with low gloss clear, presumably to reduce glare.

That confirms to me that all the gray for your car was supposed to be the same color gray. It's just that with the different materials and textures used for the gray parts, metal, plastic, vinyl, all produced and colored in different ways...that it never all looked exactly the same from the factory. It was the same way with all the colors. There were always variations in the color on the different parts.

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  #72  
Old 05-29-2020, 09:43 AM
Grand73Am Grand73Am is offline
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Also, looking closer at your photos, it looks like at the least, the kick panels have been changed out. The kick panels being dark gray isn't original to a 79. The dark gray was used in 81 on the kick panels. I know cause I have one. So, my guess is that those were swapped from an 81 at some point.

But, if you're going to keep those seats, shades of gray aren't really important, since the seats won't be original anyway. If you're like me, just something clean and neat will do until I can do it better later.

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  #73  
Old 05-29-2020, 11:28 AM
TAKerry TAKerry is offline
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2019-05-06_06-56-15 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr
This is #15393 Med Grey, it is a shade bit lighter than the presidio grey.

2019-06-04_08-55-22 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr

Against the metal, this has been repainted very close to original colour.
I would imagine the metal was painted with the car and the dash by the manufacturer. I dont think they matched 'perfectly', much like the rest of the int. pieces.
My impression is that you are not looking for a 'concours restoration', I wouldnt sweat the details too much. Pick out a colour that is close, since the metal is already grey go something that will match with that. Paint the console and the kick panels the same. I would doe the sail panels and rear seat side pieces as well. That way everything is the same. New carpet (which is pretty cheap compared to a lot of components), and new door panels. Car will look brand new.

  #74  
Old 06-02-2020, 12:52 AM
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Thanks TAKerry and Grand73Am,
Your color ideas, options and examples will work well for me to give me the direction to go with the interior color. I think my dash pad was painted different and I will likely go with the original color on the dash.
I put the interior on pause because my sender came in and I was going to take it over to a buddies with a lift on Sunday but on my way over he called and said no go, so I drove it home and laid on my back and switched out the sender.
I knew this car was in good shape but I was in awe at how rust free the car is for a Minnesota original. I know no one had removed the tank because I found the build sheet. Unfortunately, it is unreadable. I took pictures of the chassis with the tank removed - pretty rust free.
I had a little scare with the motor as I was working on the carb. It turns out that the carb problem was a bad o-ring on the primary needle/seat valve and it was dumping fuel into the intake as well as outside the intake. You can imagine my scare when I set the new valve in and cranked the engine and it locked up when the starter was cranking before it fired - and wouldn't turn over even by hand. I thought I had run the oil so thin with fuel that the engine was locked up.
So I decided I would pull the plugs and fog the cylinders and try and baby it back to life with lubrication.
Turns out that it was just hydro-locked with fuel as one cylinder was completely full of fuel. So I pulled all the plugs and cranked it and let the fuel blow out, then I fogged the cylinders. I then filled the crankcase over full with good oil so I knew the whole crank was submersed in oil to soak up the residual fuel. I let it sit over night and then changed the oil. I will run this oil for a little bit and change the oil again to make sure the fuel is out of the system.
I set up the carb float levels right and she runs great now. I love these Holley double pumpers but they can be nasty with flooding. It has been twenty years since I worked with one but the memories came back quick.
I have to find mufflers that are quieter though, I am pissing my wife off, its loud.
Everything is calibrated and works, the tach, fuel, temp and volts, all work well. Looks good to, at night with all LEDs for instrument lights. I left the normal bulbs in for the turn signals and idiot lights.
I will start my search for seats and mufflers.
More to come.
Thanks guys, your help is awesome.
Mark
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  #75  
Old 06-02-2020, 09:23 AM
TAKerry TAKerry is offline
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Incredible how clean the bottom is, def never driven in the winter. Good news on the build sheet/bad news on the build sheet

  #76  
Old 06-06-2020, 06:24 PM
thews thews is offline
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Congrats on your new ride. You asked, so I'll tell you what I'd do with it. It runs, which is awesome. I'd buy a an early T/A hood, nose and valance and front air dam. You'd then have to figure out the shaker alignment, but that couldn't be too hard. I'm currently struggling with my 75 T/A , but I think it's due to the Edelbrock hi rise intake. If I had to do it again I would just use a stock one, but my point is there are options. I'd then replace mags with 17 Honecomb wheels (about $1K). You don't need trim rings and they look awesome. You need a paint job, but I wouldn't pay an arm and a leg for it... shop around. From the front it would look like a 70-73 T/A. From the back is has the cool 79 taillights. I'd paint it either red, green, or Lucy Blue. Lucy Blue would draw the most attention with the lack of a bird and a single stripe.






Link for the wheels:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/17-Honeycom...UAAOxyi-ZTY6~c


Last edited by thews; 06-06-2020 at 06:33 PM.
  #77  
Old 06-06-2020, 09:02 PM
Aus78Formula Aus78Formula is offline
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Those cars had an arm and a leg spent on them and the paint. If attention is what you crave, the early front and late back will do just that.

  #78  
Old 06-07-2020, 04:07 PM
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Those are great looking cars and I would love to put an older style front end on - not sure how available they would be or the budget I have to do that- I am working on a 67 GTO convertible also.

I want to get everything working correctly before I expand on the options. I have the tach, fuel gauge and water temp gauge all working good. So I took some time to review the transmission speedo situation. I appear to have a yellow internal gear but I don't think it has 19 teeth- it looks more like 10- see photos. Unless I am looking at the wrong gear. I tried to do the calculation on the given information earlier in this thread but it is like I cant figure it out.


Quote:
Concerning the speedo drive gear in the transmission, I looked back at some pics of my th350 from my 79 TA when I had it apart. It's yellow, which is supposed to be 19 teeth. So, maybe yours is too. With the driven gear "bullet" out of the hole, you could probably see inside the tail housing with a light to verify what color you have. On this TCI speedo calculator page, the chart for th350 speedo gears tells how many teeth a particular color drive gear, and driven gear, has. https://www.tciauto.com/speedometer-gear-calculator
Here is what I have - looks like a stock yellow gear- doesn't look like 19 teeth though. Speedo seems to run about 10-15 mph to fast.
Tire size is P275 50R15
Driven gear is rust color (37 teeth)
As discussed earlier in the post- I believe it to be a 3.43 rear end. - it is over 3.25 and under 3.5

What driven gear do I need to get the speedo to the right calibration.

Thanks all for your help
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Last edited by i4abuygto; 06-07-2020 at 04:23 PM.
  #79  
Old 06-07-2020, 04:20 PM
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A photo of the Driven gear from a different angle
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  #80  
Old 06-07-2020, 04:24 PM
78w72 78w72 is offline
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i havent been keeping up with his thread so might have missed somethings, but wanted to ask why you have 275/50 tires on the rear? probably came with the car, but that is a very short tire under 26", the stock size was 27.5". could that be all or part of the 10-15mph difference? might be a good idea to get the right size tire on the back & go from there to change the speedo gears or just live with it like it is for now so you're not stuck with that small size tire forever?

have you checked the pass side axle tube for the code to verify the gear ratio if they are original? it would be a 3.42, not 3.43.

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