[cadtech]

My dilemma is the original fender when properly aligned and flush with the upper and lower body lines of the door sticks out past the door 3/16" in the middle. I search threads for the fender sticking out past the middle of the door. Seems choices are cut the fender support to reshape the fender to match the door. But then you lose your lower body line. It moves down almost 1/4". The problem is when you force the center of the fender in it spreads the fender body lines apart. So I tried shimming, prying, and repositioning the fender for hours but not successful. I'm sure using 3/16 thick of body filler is not the best way to do it either. So then I saw a post where the guy used a Morgan Knokker to move the door to match the fender. But doesn't that leave the lip of the door looking like a ski jump and the door all kittywampus? Meaning now you will have to use a boat load of filler to get the door straight again? My next thought is to cut the back support, reshape the fender to match the door, then cut the bottom of the fender off, trim it to match the lower body line, and weld it back up. But seems like a lot of hard work. Is there any good way to do this and have a nice final look?

[cadtech]

Sorry about the pictures. I don't know why the pictures came out sideways even though I held the phone straight up and down?

[HoovDaddy]

Attach sideview pics of the top and bottom showing how the panels and feature lines match up. Is that a replacement door or door skin?

[cadtech]

Yes it is an aftermarket door

[Cammer-6]

I was also going to ask about replacement door.
Im pretty confidant the door is the issue.
If you was to hang a straight OEM door Im betting theres no issues

[400 4spd.]

Are the hood and other fender bolted on and lined up? Without seeing the car, it looks to me like:
1. The door is mounted too far back.
2. The front end is around towards the driver's side (out of square). That would cause the fender to appear to bulge out through the middle, but fit better at upper and lower corners.

[cadtech]

Yes the other fender and hood are mounted on the car. The hood to fender gaps are 1/8" and square.

[HoovDaddy]

Okay, you have a repop door assembly, at this point it doesn't matter what the fender is. I've run into this issue on Chevy and Pontiac A bodies every time I mix repop with OEM and even repop-to-repop. The panels rarely match.

Plan A; have you looked for an OEM door that you can re-skin? This would be the best choice.

Plan B; I have flattened the fenders before which is really easy, but you have to re-match the feature lines and I don't recommend it unless you know how to use lead as a filler.

Plan C; I think the best way would be to cut your door skin off and fit a new ropop skin to your existing shell. Fit the skin with the door on the car prior to bending the edges so you can position it to match the fender and quarter panel in all directions. Pull the skin out to match the fender bulge, then tack the skin in place at the corners. You'll need a helper. This also has an advantage when matching the quarter panel and rocker panels.

Fully assemble the door before you start your final bodywork to make sure everything fits. There can be major issues with repop doors as far as the vent window fit, adding a mirror reinforcement if you want a RH mirror, catwhisker and molding fit, etc.

The shape of the jam edge on repops never match especially the upper pillar area, so I use welding rod and file it, then I fill with welding rod gap with lead.

[burd]

Originally Posted by cadtech

Sorry about the pictures. I don't know why the pictures came out sideways even though I held the phone straight up and down?

Hold the phone long ways, to post on a forum. (Horizontal)

[cadtech]

I took the door off and was able to work the front edge of the door with a hammer and dolly. I concentrated on moving the inner door shell edge more than hammering on the door skin edge. I noticed the skin was not spot welded to the inner door shell so that help a lot as far as the skin giving a little to create more of an arc. What actually work the best was using a 7/8" lug nut torque stick and ball peen hammer from the inside and persuade the inner door shell edge and skin to move. When I was done the door skin was pretty darn close to straight. What a relief. I have been racking my brain trying to figure out an easy way.

[Cammer-6]

good job
hammer out that dent while youre at it.