[GTO Noob]

Nick,

I thought you checked that 30 amp fuse in the alt cable at the beginning? If you did it probably popped when the new AC blower relay fried.

There is an engine harness available but they don't make one for a 69 with AC. Believe me I just bought one and PY confirmed that M&H doesn't make it and they have no plans too. Very strange since they make the engine harness with AC for all of the other years. Check your main engine harness and if it looks like it hasn't been butchered then don't change it.

Nick,

I do believe you said you have rally guages right? You have the clock as well?

If so here's what you need.

69-71 AC harness Main Engine 30220 $65
69-70 AC Harness Under Dash 13355 $45
69 AC Harness Power Feed & Compressor to AC 17390 $29
69 Dash Harness with Gauges 12825 $399

There is a Tach harness but I don't know that you need it. If so it's
68-69 Tach Harness Dash 12380 $13

The number before the part is the PY part number.

It will probably take 4-6 weeks for PY to get them in. That's about how long it took to get my harnesses in.

If you have any questions Ed is a great guy to deal with at PY. He can help you with any questions you have. You can reach him here.
sales@performanceyears.com

[InjunNick]

Noob - thanks for the numbers, I will look into buying what I need.

[InjunNick]

A quick update, I got everything back together and tested the hot wire to the blower and I now get a different voltage for every speed adjustment on the switch. This sounds good but I am sure it is not right, the voltage amounts in each speed selection is less than .5V.....

[Old Goat 67]

Betcha didn't think you'd get this much help, huh?
Good group of guys here.
Charles

[Old Goat 67]

Are you checking that with the load connected (blower) or not? If not, .5 volts indicates and open somewhere in the feed circuit still. If so, indicates a shorted motor. High speed select should give you a full 12v.

[InjunNick]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

Are you checking that with the load connected (blower) or not? If not, .5 volts indicates and open somewhere in the feed circuit still. If so, indicates a shorted motor. High speed select should give you a full 12v.

I have no idea what you mean by load connected but I will take a chance, The wire is disconnected from the blower motor when I did that test!

[GTO Noob]

Nick

Load connected meant the blower motor hooked up which it wasn't.

If you were going with your black lead on a good ground and you red lead in the black an orange wire you pulled from the motor then you should have had more power than that.

It's very hard to trouble shoot through the computer like this. When is your service manual going to arrive?

Once it does you'll be able to trace each wire one by one to find your trouble.

Look through the old post that I did and see if you can trace your power from the start to the end. where the power stops that's where the problem is. From what I remember when you hooked up the new AC resistor you said it shorted out the system. If that's true then maybe you've burnt that new resistor. If the blower motor is shorted then it could cause that. Unfortunately I can't go and test mine out because I don't have the electrical completed in my car. I went and tried to meter out my resistor and blower motor. I have 1.9 Ohms of resistance on my blower motor but I can't see any resistance between the terminals on my resistor. I purchased this car last year and I never did use the heat or blower so I can't say that mine is in working condition either.

If anybody else can check these values it would be helpful. I am at least a week away before I can try mine.


On a second note from what I can see the regular engine harness would work fine for your car. There is an extra connector that comes from the AC harness but that connects to the AC / Compressor harness that runs to the front of the compressor so if you want you can buy the main engine harness as well if it looks like yours has been messed with.

[InjunNick]

My manual arrived and I am going to figure this out one way or another.....
I will keep you posted on what I find and with questions I can't figure out....

[GTO Noob]

Nick,

Keep us posted. If you run into trouble or get stuck let me know and I'll PM you my phone number and you can call me and we'll go through it step by step.

[Old Goat 67]

Ditto on Noob's post.

Charles

[InjunNick]

GTONooB and Old Goat and Kate and engineer............

Just to give you all an update........

After I received my manual, I decided to give it a brain rest and start afresh, when I got back into it yesterday I looked at the wiring diagram and it all went together on what you guys were telling me, it was like a light went on in my head. I retraced my tracks and checked each wire, to and from, and I found the relay connector was wired backwards, but still no blower. I pulled the Hot wire from the alt to the relay at the relay and jumped it to the blower motor and like magic the blower worked. I checked the ohm from the fuse box to the wire at the relay (grey) and there was nothing there. I then moved inside and started at the fuse box and traced the brown to the connector, there was resistance, this is good. I next had to go from this connector to the blower speed selector but I could get under the dash, I then remembered the glove box. I removed the glovebox and found the switch, funny thing..... THE CONNECTOR WAS NOT ATTACHED TO IT

I connected it to the switch and rechecked for power and the blower started to work. I then cleaned everything up and started the car, turned on the A/C, the relay clicked, turned the blower selector to low, it worked and then I checked each speed up to HIGH.

I now have my A/C working and cold air is blowing, how cold I don't know as of yet, but at least it is cold.......

After seeing the mess of wires and the problems with no gen light and no temp guage and possible no gas guage (drove about 15mi and the needle is still on full), I will be buying the harness's you suggested......

[kate`s67gto]

Hey fantastic Nick, glad your air con is working for you . When you install your new dash harness, then you can rest assured, your wiring under there is good to go . How is your engine harness? It could be the problem with your temp guage and gen light . Fuel guage on full could be an open circuit (cut wire) tan in color , runs from guage to sender in fuel tank .
Scott

[InjunNick]

well I took the mrs and went for a 30 min drive and the temp climbed to almost the 1/2 guage mark, I presume it is around 160-170deg.
The engine harness will be replaced, there are to many spliced in wires in that one also.