[Jonsie]

Yep, ordered a new GM switch, more expensive than a repop, but a repop is what failed this time

[Jonsie]

Funny thing about the repop switch, as it works perfectly in the '66 goat. But a couple wires (green and grey I think?) go to different switch terminals from car to car. '65 vs. '66

["QUICK-SILVER"]

GTO uses two hot wires instead of one like full size has.

Your car sends power to the fuse and then on out to the tail lights.

Tail light fuse is hot in the GTO and the switch sends power to the tail lights.

Same brown/white wire....one car hot, one car not hot.

Clay

[Jonsie]

Interesting! The new switch is due in today, I hope it does the trick, I'll report back

[Jonsie]

Fed-Ex never showed, maybe tomorrow...............

[Jonsie]

.......,.and maybe manana..................

[Jonsie]

New switch arrived, no change with the lights. Ran jumper from Red terminal to brown/white, fuses lite up, rear lights work, BUT.....left taillight is normal red, right lites are bright red (as if the brake is being applied.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Where/who are you getting the switches from? What brand and part number?

I suspect Lemans/tempest/GTO switches are getting sold for full size cars because they look alike. Same connector fits but they don't work the same inside.

As for bright and dim tail light...Make sure all the contact points are good, hot and ground. And double check that the bulbs are indexed properly.
Can follow up on that as needed.
Clay

[Jonsie]

Original "new" switch that I had came from Ames, ID #1588, #1995179, box says ACDelco. Other numbers on switch: 1792031. The "new" switch just arrived came from OPGI, ID#1588, #1705081, box ACDelco, other numbers on sw: 1724423-273, and 19245093. Tried to buy from Ames again this go-around, catalog says '65 Big car "discontinued". So tried OPGI, saw they offer '65 big car switches in two selections: repop, and ACDelco. Well, this switch is no different than the two others I have (now have 3 switches).Agree with what you say regarding GTO pieces being sold as big car ones, no difference on the outside. Just to be clear, there should be continuity in the switch itself between the RED tang and the BR/WHITE tang ?

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by Jonsie

Just to be clear, there should be continuity in the switch itself between the RED tang and the BR/WHITE tang ?

Correct, there is suppose to be continuity between RED and BR/White with light switch turned ON. That's on 65 full size cars.

Can't get logged on at OPGI for some reason. Did check with Summit though...And yes, OPGI is selling the same switch for GTO and Bonneville. Looks like they have consolidated part numbers that DO NOT interchange. At least for the year model of your car.

If the parts did interchange, Ames wouldn't have full size discontinued while selling the GTO switch.

Clay

[Jonsie]

If the parts did interchange, Ames wouldn't have full size discontinued while selling the GTO switch.

Clay[/QUOTE]

That's what I figured, I'll be sending this switch back to OPGI. And putting in an ad for a used switch in the "Parts Wanted" section of the forums. I'm sure someone will have one. Thanks for your help Clay-

[Jonsie]

Bob Vidan had a replacement, thanks Bob, and thanks to Quick-Silver for getting me through the electrics

[Jonsie]

Found out that the correct switch for the full-size has a strap between the 'red' pin on the switch to the 'brown/white' pin.....got panel and dash lights now

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by Jonsie

Found out that the correct switch for the full-size has a strap between the 'red' pin on the switch to the 'brown/white' pin.....got panel and dash lights now

This tells me the wiring diagram I've got is wrong WRONG.

It shows power to brown/white would turn tail/dash ON even if the headlight switch was OFF. It shows brown/white getting power from RED when you pull the switch ON. Not a 'strap' between the two that would make the lights stay ON all the time, but connection made when you pull the switch ON.

It shows 'brown' to tail lights exits the fuse box and not coming out of the switch like the other (smaller) body styles do.

I suspected earlier in the thread that the diagram wasn't right. This tells me it's more than not right but really messed up.

Glad you got it fixed! Now it's time for me to make notes and figure out what's up/WRONG with the diagram.

Thanks for letting us know. Now got to do some studying.
Clay

[Jonsie]

I just double-checked to make sure that I didn't miss something. With knob pushed in (OFF): no lights, no power to the taillight fuse or dash fuse. With knob halfway out and all the way out: Got tail panel lights, license plate light, and dash lights. And in these two positions: power at both fuses.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by Jonsie

Pulled switch, removed wiring, dash fuse lit when jumping red to both brown/white and green

Originally Posted by Jonsie

Found out that the correct switch for the full-size has a strap between the 'red' pin on the switch to the 'brown/white' pin.....got panel and dash lights now

When you did the jumper from red to brown/white, the fuses had power and lights came on.

Are you sure that strap, on the new switch, connects red and brown/white? If it does you should have the same results as the jumper test...But you don't.

Sounds like the new switch powers brown/white when you turn the switch ON. No power to brown/white with the switch OFF. And that's what the diagram shows. So just a bit confused about the strap and what it's doing.

Just trying to get things sorted out for future reference.

Thanks in advance
Clay

[Jonsie]

I am out for the day, will check on this and reply tomorrow

[Jonsie]

Jumper from RED to BR/WH: fuses have power, lights operate
Light switch strap connects RED pin to another pin with no cooresponding terminal on the harness, ie" a dead end. I misspoke earlier in thread, too many beers!
Switch powers fuses when ON, no power when OFF

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Thanks for double checking that!

This means 'all is well' with the diagrams we have.

Thanks again
Clay

[Jonsie]

And "Thank You" Clay, for all your help here. Any thought on why the strap would go to a pin with no cooresponding harness terminal?