[Tedd930]

Barron , thank you for everything!! Very very informative… stupid question but the low options help or hurt the car? I spoke to Ron the original owner he was a kid in the service and wanted the car like this .
I am going to be curious how it will drive with no p/s or p/b !!😂😂😳😳

[Keith Seymore]

No P/S P/B is fine. Just plan ahead a bit when stopping.

If you are rolling when turning that big steering wheel it will be no problem. Give it some space, though, when it whips back to center.

K

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

The wheel color wasnt an elective choice.
Somewhere on here before , there was a guide chart posted for wheel-to-body color.

Someone had a light turquoise car they were restoring and the chart called for dark turq wheels , but he went with body color out of personal preference .
And another guy didn't like his chart color and matched his to the body color - in that thread.
If that helps ring any bells to anybody about finding it.

I probably saved the chart - but all my stuff is trapped on a sick laptop.

It makes me hesitant about what would actually be correct for a barrier blue survivor.
Black works with them all pretty much , but it may not be correct

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

Its going to be a bitch to drive.
66 with PS can turn lock to lock with one finger while sitting still.
They called it wonder-touch and that's a pretty good description.
Yours will take both hands and both arms.

The brakes will take getting used to , maybe a lot of getting used to if you haven't already done a bit of old car piloting in the past.

If it were mine to keep , both would get factory power assist upgrade.
And a Posi rear axle.
And Rally Ones.

The lack of PS and PB is a minus on a convertible cruiser.
The lack of Posi is a minus on any GTO

If it were an XS TriPower/RamAir Induction with 4.33 posi axle , the Non-PS and Non-PB would be more in tune with that combo.

Your car has so much Plus Factor due to its condition that a few minuses aren't a really big deal .
I would have suspected it was a price leader lot car versus a customer special order.

[Tedd930]

Agreed .. I am just going to go off the original spare
And match that . I’ll know tomorrow going to check progress .

[Greg Reid]

There's a thread that was going on just recently about manual brakes. Surprising how many still prefer them. My '66 is ps but manual brakes. I'll probably keep them. I will go to a dual reservoir though.

[OG68]

Power steering and brakes were dealer install options IIRC. I wonder how many were done at the dealership.
Mom (5'4") never had any problems steering and stopping our 68 though

[bdk1976]

There is a chart in the "GTO - A book of information 1964-1970" (which is essentially a collection of photocopied documents/brochures from Pontiac) that shows the steel wheel colors for 65 based on body colors, but have not seen a similar chart for 66.

I strongly suspect a barrier blue car would have come with black steel wheels when equipped with poverty caps. Fontaine Blue would seem to be the only other viable candidate, and in 65 it was only used on Fontaine Blue cars (and not on any of the other blue/bluish colors).

[71GP76TA]

My '67 GTO and '67 Gp are both manual steering and brakes... and manual trans. They make you work and pay attention... Both cars drive and stop just fine.

[Tedd930]

Hello .. I just left the car confirmed original spare is a black rim…👍 took pic of the engine number attached .. also the tag on firewall … can someone confirm matching numbers please

[Tedd930]

I found a nos distributor cap in the parts bin that came with the car .. it’s 100% GM but is red a proper color for the car? Thank you. Also check out the brake drum looks like that part number is
Also correct for the car I think ?? 🤔 any one get a chance to view previous post to help confirm engine ?

[Goatboyjohnny]

Looks like in a previous post you said you have the protect-o-plate. The engine unit number on that plate, should match the number stamped on the block above the WS. That is the only way to confirm a numbers matching engine block for 66, (other years too, just can't remember the exact range of years at the moment). I hope it matches up for year, either way, you have an awesome goat on your hands.

Johnny

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

Same as above about your engine verification.
Have to have the P-o-P
That is the only pure defacto way to authenticate.

If you do not have it , the only thing you can do is compare the date code of the block against build date of the car.

Distributor Cap is not assembly line correct for your car.

Since I don't see a date code on your front drum I suspect it is an aftermarket replacement.

And we still need to see the stampings around the valve stem of your spare wheel.

[Tedd930]

Ok I will get a close up of the wheel date code
Does the engine numbers provided appear to
Be year correct ? As mentioned prior I speak to
The original owner and he is 100% certain the engine
Was never replaced .. but it would be nice to confirm .
I will ask about the pop . Thank u

[johnta1]

Get the date code off the engine. It will also tell what model years it could be.

[Cammer-6]

red cap was normally for TI or CD ignition

[Tedd930]

There’s pictures bellow of the engine numbers
698534. WS

[60sstuff]

WOW, this has become exhausting.

[johnta1]

The date code is back by the distributor on the block.
Looks something like J105. A letter and 2-3 digits.

[gtospieg]

WS would indicate 389 tri power 4 speed if indeed that is a 66 block.. As mentioned the date code would confirm if it is "date correct" for your car. The WS code was used in other years and can mean different things. For example: WS in 67 means 400 HO 4 speed.