[JUDGE3]

required and recommended by the manufacturer to change the fluids at 500 miles from new, running late having 1,000 miles on it since completing the 8 year restoration but I just couldn't stop driving it.

Been awhile since iv'e had the valve covers off, seeing threads about roller rocker arms made me want to inspect mine. Lunati 6.5's, all looks brand new on the near 10 year old engine, no pins loose or cracks etc.

looks good in the moser eaton posi. changed the fluid and filter in the th400 trans as well. decided no deep pan, mine has a drain plug i'll add a tranny cooler and change the fluid as needed.

turns out the rollover vent valve is more trouble than its worth. had no idea when getting under it fuel was burping up out of the vent valve near hot exhaust no less. so when the fuel sits in the line now you have the tank vacuum going on with the swoosh when removing the cap. fixed that by removing it, plugged off the tank vent nipple(s) making it like a 1970 tank, and drilled a small 1/16 hole in the fuel cap. easy fix and no worries.

only way to use those is if you can get the valve located high and the tube near straight up so it drains straight back down. I had mine as high as possible. I could not have used the original eec multi tube piece anyway as my dual exhaust would not have allowed routing all those lines.

went over everything real good. building a car myself wanted to make sure I didnt miss tightening something up. secured the battery cables and wires running to the starter better and wrapped the powermaster starter with the ultimate heat blanket. same stuff used on hot aircraft jet engines. flipped the metal solonoid shield using it to clamp the blanket tight. thats one comfy starter.

crazy. 8 year resto build and I have a lotta fun stuff I want to do to it.

[JUDGE3]

decided to try a heat sink trans cooler in conjunction with the radiator cooler. this ones a derale unit sized to the area I wanted to install it. has adjustable brackets and one end dual port rather than just a pass thru one end to the other as some are. used the stack plates before and I like those but didnt want a bug catcher up front.

welded up a bracket and only had to drill 2 holes as was able to use existing factory tooling holes in the bumper bracket and route the lines right thru the core support opening. using barb fittings to complete but now I can measure the lines and get the right an fitting line kit.

wired the rear console usb ports via the trunk dome light connection. it comes with 2 ways to wire it. the other is a cigar lighter end. has the original ash tray to but in this day and age looks kinda silly back there.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by JUDGE3

turns out the rollover vent valve is more trouble than its worth. had no idea when getting under it fuel was burping up out of the vent valve near hot exhaust no less. so when the fuel sits in the line now you have the tank vacuum going on with the swoosh when removing the cap. fixed that by removing it, plugged off the tank vent nipple(s) making it like a 1970 tank, and drilled a small 1/16 hole in the fuel cap. easy fix and no worries.

only way to use those is if you can get the valve located high and the tube near straight up so it drains straight back down. I had mine as high as possible. I could not have used the original eec multi tube piece anyway as my dual exhaust would not have allowed routing all those lines.

.

The best way, and actually necessary way, to make those Tank Inc roller over vent valves work is the line running to it has to be coiled. Usually I'll do 3-4-5 coils, what ever I have room for, then mount the valve up high. Just running a straight line from the tank to the vent will almost always (in every case I've seen) result in fuel sloshing up there and leaking. The coils make that about impossible. Just a tip for the next guy in case you ever revisit that again.

[JUDGE3]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

The best way, and actually necessary way, to make those Tank Inc roller over vent valves work is the line running to it has to be coiled. Usually I'll do 3-4-5 coils, what ever I have room for, then mount the valve up high. Just running a straight line from the tank to the vent will almost always (in every case I've seen) result in fuel sloshing up there and leaking. The coils make that about impossible. Just a tip for the next guy in case you ever revisit that again.

thanks for the tip. I see how coils would hold more fuel and keep it from getting out the vent. should the line not completely drain back and clear however, your back to no venting and vacuum in the tank. line has to completely clear back out after pressure pushing fuel in the line. that was my issue, had it high enough but line routing was not upward enough to clear the line.

so I went old school and drilled the tiny hole in the cap. like the idea of coiling hard line for room though. maybe will revisit that again down the road.

[JUDGE3]

So have the carb off, did the best I could with it and shaker455 did a great job with a previous carb years back so sent him my holley to supertune. thank you Jeff.

good time to clean the engine up after all the dusty overspray etc during the painting and the aforementioned maintenance. new plug wires, oil change, and a general going over.

got the blue thing goin on with the wheels, added billit blue valve stem caps ha.