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#1
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I run a vacum pump set-up. I would like to do something about the fumes coming from the filter on the catch can. Makes the car smell on slow driving.
Would a line like the orange in the picture, going to the intakte/vacuum source on the fitech, be a good idea? Or Are there better solutions? |
#2
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Was also thinking about blocking of the filterport as that will give a vacuum leak leving the filter open?
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#3
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I can try offer advise. First I would not run any vacuum line from the catch-can canister to the carb as it's gonna draw some of the water/oil gunk into your engine. I also don't think it's a good idea to block off the filter area as that is designed to allow fumes to leave the canister. The vacuum pump is pulling a vacuum on the engine and sending the oil mist and condensation to the catch can. I can't see that a small vacuum line is gonna keep up with the amount of air the vacuum pump is pulling from the engine and discharging into the catch can. It's just the design of the system. The only thing is try to experiment with moving your catch-can where is can direct the fumes toward the bottom of the car. I took a soft thin towel and wrapped one layer around the filter to help catch any oil mist. Works very well.
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68 Firebird. IA2 block, 505 cu in, SD Performance E-head, Solid roller 3600 weight. Reid TH400 4:11 gear. 29" slick. Best so far 9.95@134 mph. 1.43 60 ft. 76 Trans am, TKX .81 o/d, 3.73 Moser rearend, 468 with KRE D-ports, Doug headers, 3" Exh. |
The Following User Says Thank You to chuckies76ta For This Useful Post: | ||
#4
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Doing racecar stuff on street cars has its drawbacks. Is this primarily a race car that gets driven on the streets occasionally? I'm just trying to ascertain the actual need for a vacuum pump.
The setup certainly can aid in HP generation and has obvious good effects on oil leaks etc, but the way you have this setup as an open system, you're going to smell every bit of crankcase gasses that engine produces. There are some things you can do to help that however. The first would be to make sure that all of your hood seals, especially the cowl seal are present and in good condition. Anything you can do to keep the gasses that poor out of that filter from entering your cowl is going to help. Next would be to make sure any of the pass-throughs in the firewall are completely closed off. Experimenting with placement of the catch can may also be beneficial. Although the cowl ingests fresh air on both sides, the passenger side where the blower motor resides will draw more air from in and around the engine compartment while that motor is in operation. Another option here would be to try an air/oil separator designed to be installed inline in a more traditional PCV setup. In that situation, you would run your line to the air/oil separator, with another output line to the plenum. These are typically designed to pass clean gasses back to engine, closing the system except where crank case pressure may require a one way valve to open to relieve that pressure. It might be worth looking at one of those. I run a Mighty Mouse Solutions can myself, but not with a vacuum pump.
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-Jason 1969 Pontiac Firebird |
The Following User Says Thank You to JLMounce For This Useful Post: | ||
#5
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#6
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Remove the filter on catch can, instead use a cap with 3/8" hose fitting and lead the hose to inside of the air cleaner filter.
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#7
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Sounds like it should work. And no concern that the line is to small and the can will be pressurised from the vacuum pump?
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#8
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Butler's new thing is recommending vacuum pumps on their stroker engines, whether for street or strip use. I'm not exactly comfortable with the idea of using one, either. If you're running your basic garden variety 460-467 stroker build pushing between 450-500HP, I don't see why a traditional PVC setup and a couple breathers on the valve covers wouldn't be sufficient, but what do I know?
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1979 Trans Am W72 400/4-Speed WS6 - Starlight Black Hardtop ![]() |
#9
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Butler said when ordering the parts back in 2022 that they recommend vacuum pump on an engine like this. I had problems with dip stick not locking in the tube on hard acceleration. Mounted the pump and that problem is now fixed, so maby they are right about this. |
#10
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I can't see a 3/8" line is gonna keep up with the volume of air the vacuum pump displaces. You would need a significant amount of vacuum on the 3/8" line to accomplish that in my opinion. Now, you have basically designed a close loop system. If you ran a -10 up to the air cleaner, I believe that would solve your issue with fumes into the cars interior. On a side note it maybe something you'd have to experiment with. You don't want to get in a situation where your pulling oil mist into the engine and now see smoke out the tailpipes. JMHO.
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68 Firebird. IA2 block, 505 cu in, SD Performance E-head, Solid roller 3600 weight. Reid TH400 4:11 gear. 29" slick. Best so far 9.95@134 mph. 1.43 60 ft. 76 Trans am, TKX .81 o/d, 3.73 Moser rearend, 468 with KRE D-ports, Doug headers, 3" Exh. |
#11
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I find with my setup it only really smells after the car has sat for a while. It is clearing out the condensation from sitting.
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466 Mike Voycey shortblock, 310cfm SD KRE heads, SD "OF 2.0 cam", torker 2 373 gears 3200 Continental Convertor best et 10.679/127.5/1.533 60ft 308 gears best et 10.76/125.64/1.5471 |
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