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THE LOBBY A gathering place. Introductions, sports, showin' off your ride, birthday-anniversary-milestone, achievements, family oriented humor. |
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#41
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no science here just a whole lot of personal experience. |
#42
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I use Mobil 1 5W30 and a Wix filter in my 2008 GMC Sierra Denali.
I've sold all my classic Pontiacs, but when I did own them (all were equipped with flat-tappet camshafts) I ran Mobil 1 5W30, Wix filters and a pint of GM EOS for the added ZDDP. NEVER experienced any internal engine issues whatsoever.
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Regards, "455HO" Lloyd 2008 GMC Sierra Denali 2WD Crew, L92 6L80E, Silver w/ Ebony guts, 14.26 @ 98 |
#43
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I have to disagree
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There is a difference, believe me. As mentioned I have a cutter and have been slicing open filters on my own cars and other peoples. I'll see if I can remember to get some pics tonight and post them. Some of the filters are more difficult to slice open like the Bosch and Mobil 1...thicker cases. Some of the no name filters I cut open actually had broken pleats so the oil was passing without being filtered! The three best filters are: Mobil 1, K&N, Bosch. I haven't had a WIX to cut open yet.
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“Nothing in the world can take the place of persistence. Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful men with talent. Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent. The slogan Press On! has solved and always will solve the problems of the human race.” ― Calvin Coolidge |
#44
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The next day it was obvious. The Pennzoil oil had separated, about 50% honey on top and 50% dark on the bottom half. The Castrol on the other hand had darker oil, but what was more important the darker stayed suspended in the oil with no separation. |
#45
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Filters
Here's some pics of some oil filters I cut open. I wish I could remember what car that Penn. oil filter came off of. Holy crap! Take notice the Amsoil filter, even the bypass has a screen, pretty neat. That orange filter is from 1994 so they have been crap for over 20 years.
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“Nothing in the world can take the place of persistence. Talent will not; nothing is more common than unsuccessful men with talent. Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. Persistence and determination alone are omnipotent. The slogan Press On! has solved and always will solve the problems of the human race.” ― Calvin Coolidge |
#46
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The Pennsoil filter didn't do a regular cycle. Or there was some other issue. I'd bet money. That filter doesn't look like that from being inexpensive.
The others? Not enough difference to make a difference in actual function. Change the oil, per mfg recommendation, change the filter per mfg recommendation using whatever is out there and most of us will tire of the car before it wears out.
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frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core. |
#47
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http://www.pismoderelicts.com/photog...7_edited_1.jpg http://www.pismoderelicts.com/photog...s/p1020752.jpg http://www.pismoderelicts.com/photog...s/p1020753.jpg |
#48
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#49
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We complained of this issue and told Goodyear they should switch brands of oil. If you ever pulled a high mileage valve cover off an engine and it was clean, they weren't having there oil changed by us. |
#50
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You should have seen what I found when I pulled a rocker cover...you couldn't even see pushrods... .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
#51
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rohrt - Nice homework there back on post 25, I'm going to ref that and re-read a couple times.
SRR - I like seeing people dig and not take other's word for it, nice homework on the filters. There's a couple other sources for filters where folks have done similar, but the data is becoming dated. Wish someone would do it again, things have changed. I will say for sure that filters make a difference. I've seen folks here freak because they have an oil psi drop after changing the oil and filter, FRAM being the big one. Those Bosch are another. Swap the filter to an AC or Wix, problem solved. Ever see a filter collapse internally? Basically becomes a cork, and oil run via the bypass the whole time, never gets filtered. Bought my first POS truck from a guy who had just did a 'tune up' before listing for sale, had Kmart do an oil change. I immediately changed the oil and filter when I got it home, and that filter was collapsed internally. Less than 300 miles on the oil change, sticker was still on the windshield. And another good reason to not block your filter housing bypass. Think I have about 6 or 8 AC PF24s left from my case, those have been good to me. Affordable and reliable. I did run K&N filters for a while, great filters, but they kind of filter too much. The elements stop flowing as well after like 1000-1500 miles or so. Considering the cost, I just as well go back to ACs. One can argue that you can't ever filter the oil too much, but past a certain particle size, it won't make a difference. If you want to catch more and maintain flow, go to an aftermarket screen type filter added on. Or that's my opinion. .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
#52
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Mobile 1 15/50 with a Napa 1049 filter in the Pontiac.
Mobil 1 0/20 with a Napa gold filter in the truck. Change the Pontiac once per season and the truck when the mileage minder gets to 30%. No issues with either vehicle.
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Scott If you always do what you always did You always get what you always got |
#53
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Thanks I should re-read it myself a few times. I should add in what Adam found in the other link about zink. After all that reading and research I think there some good oils out there but the SHELL ROTELLA T has worked great for me so I will continue to use it.
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=789681 Originally Posted by AdamIsAdam View Post I found this page to be VERY informative. Assuming it' true. The gas in tank analogy was excellent and easy to understand for sure! http://bestmotoroil.weebly.com/ And since I find the need to run dino and not synthetic oil (Syn caused more oil leaks for me for sure), I'm happy with my selection of Valvolin VR1 as being the highest rated, non-syn street oil. I just hope the 20W50 has the same rating as the 10W30. 7. 10W30 Valvoline VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) = 103,505 psi zinc = 1472 ppm phos = 1544 ppm moly = 3 ppm Nice site. I don't remember if I came across that one or not. Makes a good point about film strength. One thing left out or just not that clear is, I have read in other places is that zinc\phos is still the best additive extreme pressure anti-wear additive made. The oil companies had to reduce the zinc because of the effect it was having the catalytic converter. They may have found substitutes to use, but I would question if they are better. It makes it tough for anyone to compare if a oil is good or not. Look at these two oils that many here use and tell me what is better? Then look at the price. 6. SHELL ROTELLA T, 15W40 conventional, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CH-4, CG-4, CF-4,CF/SM “Load Carrying Capacity/Film Strength” = 72,022 psi zinc = 1454 ppm phos = 1062 ppm moly = 0 ppm total detergent/dispersant/anti-deposit build-up/anti-sludge = 2886 ppm TBN = 9.1 The onset of thermal breakdown is approximately 250* NOTE: This new Rotella T has SIGNIFICANTLY MORE zinc than the OLD Rotella T, NOT LESS as is often claimed. And these two Rotella oils were Lab tested more than a month apart. So, their component quantities had no chance of being mixed up. This new Rotella’s wear protection capability is just slightly BETTER than the OLD Rotella. Therefore, the new Rotella is NOT the junk some have claimed. 3. 5W30 Mobil 1, API SN = 105,875 psi zinc = 801 ppm phos = 842 ppm moly = 112 ppm |
#54
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oil and filter
'95 GMC 5.7 original owner. Over 500,000 miles. Castrol 10W-30 conventional and Fram filters. 3000-8000 mile interval changes. All original internals.....still has original timing chain. About the first 250,000 mainly highway miles. The remainder split between highway and stop and go city miles. Burns a quart of oil a month.
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#55
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#56
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Have posted before, but will re-post in this thread:
Up until 1979 used Valvolene with no issues in most of my vehicles. When Mobil 1 came out, I did use Mobil 1 in the one vehicle that needed to start in the winter, regardless of conditions. In 1979, special-ordered a factory turbo Ford mustang. After getting mixed suggestions from various local "experts" on what oil to use with a turbo, called Ford. Actually got to talk to the engineer in charge of the turbo project. He stated that the turbo used engine oil, and spun up to excess of 30k RPM, and he suggested an oil that met API SF, but not API CC specifications, as the CC oil could "froth" at higher RPM's. He also recommended using Ford oil, but I could use any that met the above specs. Researched (at that time) and only 3 or 4 oils met these criteria. Since the Ford oil was readily available, I switched all my vehicles to Ford oil (except the cold weather pick-up in which I continued to use Mobil 1). The engineer also told me to let the turbo engine idle for 20~30 seconds before shut-down to allow the turbo to spin down with oil pressure, thus preserving the turbo bearings. I have done so, and to date, no problems. The other vehicles: my shop truck got 440k miles (the head was never off, but the *&^%$#@ electronic ignition failed 12 times!!!) before it rusted out the third time from Missouri salt and cinder winters. I still use Ford oil in everything, including my GTO. So my research consisted of calling an engine design engineer. So far, his advice has been great. But I also change oil and filter at 2500 miles. And a further comment on electronic ignitions: On all my newer vehicles, I am averaging LESS than 30k miles BEFORE FAILURE on electronic ignitions. I have spent far more in maintenance costs on relays, solenoids, speed control sensors, anti-stop rear brake computers, electronic ignitions, etc. on my newer vehicles than I have engine overhauls on my older vehicles! Either electronics don't like me, or they don't like Missouri weather! And some wonder why I still use points and condensor in my older vehicles Jon.
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"Good carburetion is fuelish hot air". "The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one given to you by your neighbor". If you truly believe that "one size fits all" try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes! Owner of The Carburetor Shop, LLC (of Missouri). Current caretaker of the remains of Stromberg Caburetor, and custodian of the existing Carter and Kingston carburetor drawings. Last edited by carbking; 04-29-2016 at 02:26 PM. |
#57
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I have not had an engine with sludge inside since i started using Mobil 1 in the 80's.
Back in the mid 60's the oil pressure lite in my Dad's '59 Catalina came on and had bad valve cover leaks so we took the valve covers off.....it was so sludged up there, I guess the oil could not drain back fast enuf. cleaned it all up and we were back in business. George
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"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
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