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THE LOBBY A gathering place. Introductions, sports, showin' off your ride, birthday-anniversary-milestone, achievements, family oriented humor. |
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#1
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Looking for some help with Front Wheel ABS Sensor on 2007 Buick Lacrosse
I have a 2007 Buick Lacrosse with 3.8L v6. Owned for about 11 years and has approx 100,000 miles. It has been a solid car. I have done Starter, battery, brakes, exhaust, water pump. I had front left ABS sensor code about 2.5 years ago. At that time , I checked the front left abs sensor and found a small break in the wiring where it came out of the hub (before it gets to plug). I was able to repair the wire and has been fine since.
. The ABS and Traction Control lights came on few days. A scan showed code C0041 (front right abs sensor). I hooked up my multimeter and checked the right front abs sensor. The resistance was around 1000 ohms and when I rotated the tire, the AC volts was showing voltage to about .25v. So, it sounds like sensor is good. I visually checked the wire coming out of the right front hub and it looks ok. I pulled the plastic jacket off the harness and went back about 3/4? feet and the wires look ok. I checked the resistance from the 3/4ft mark down to plug and it was near zero on both wires. I wiggled and pulled wires and resistance in both wires stayed the same (around zero). . So, these tests would indicate the right front abs sensor is ok and the wiring from sensor - back about 3/4 ft is ok. When I am driving the car the abs and traction lights are off when I start the car . But , usually after short period of driving (maybe mile or two) - the lights come on. I was thinking maybe I have an intermittent right front abs sensor issue? I checked on ebay and I see front abs sensor/hubs listed for $25 with shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Wheel...0AAOSw2E5bhkJK Prices on Rock Auto go from approx $26 to $100. Autozone lists duralast front abs sensor/hub for $97 and Moog for $141. I think I will likely keep car for 2-3 more years. Should I just go ahead and replace the right front abs sensor/hub ? Are the ebay $25 front abs sensor/hub any good ? Any part recommendations for decent front abs sensor/hub (quality and price) ? Thanks for any help |
#2
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Just asking, have any tires been replaced lately?? Different tire manufactures on the same car will kick a code because of the different rolling resistance.
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Keith Collier 61-63 Pontiac Tempest Tech advisor POCI.org |
#3
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It is almost always the wiring from the sensor to the harness. GM and many others make 3 foot long replacement ends . The harness is bent at the lower ball joint everytime you turn eventually breaking the wire inside the harness/insulation so pull testing is the only way to find the break. The harnesses are very cheap on ebay ,dormann is the next cheapest and GM is about 90.00 dollars last time I checked.
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#4
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my 95 Lincoln is notorious for buzzing the ABS while rolling in the Parking lot, or comming to a Stop. A Slow-Speed activity. I pulled the fuse a few years ago and forgot to troubleshoot. Been great without ABS.
A fella told me to check the ABS connectors in each wheelwell for trapped wetness, as that was a failure mode. |
#5
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Usually when the light starts coming on like that the bearing is going. Check the run out of the bearing. If it is worse turning then it is probably the bearing starting to loosen and increase air gap between magnet and toothed wheel. In SE MI , our roads are so bad it pounds wheel bearings terribly. They don't last long here. If you are keeping the vehicle then I would get a warrantied bearing. I bought some from Detroit Axle and they claim a 10 year warranty. I put some on my sons 2000 GMC Sierra in early December so I don't know how long they will last but the guy I talked at their store said that all the bearings are made by 1 manufacturer anymore. They seemed to be a decent part. The only other bearings I have used are AutoZone's Moog bearings. They usually last longer than the 3 year warranty.
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#6
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Changing the wheel bearings with the included harness and sensors will likely solve the problem. But if you wish to do some additional diagnosis, possibly you can borrow a scan tool and monitor the ABS wheel speeds on the data stream. As mentioned in the other post, driving over rough roads at slow speeds less than 15 MPH will give you the best data. Each wheel should have good resolution and each sensor should be +- 1 mph of each other. When turning a corner, or as you slow down, if a sensor drops out, that's the defective bearing and sensor. I do not recommend using generic white box Chinese bearings and hubs. No matter how long the warranty is, they never last over a year. MOOG, SKF, Timkin are all decent brands, though Timkin is Chinese also.
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#7
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Thank you for all the replies
. I did not realize the bearing/sensor could be intermittently going bad. I spun the wheel, checked the voltage and it looked ok. Therefore, I thought bearing/sensor was ok. But, it sounds like the bearing/sensor is intermittently going bad (perhaps like mgarblik says a road test while monitoring voltage signal out of bearing/sensor would be only way to show this intermittent issue). Pretty sure it is an original bearing/sensor, so it did last a long time. I am going to get a new bearing/sensor assembly. I might also do the wire harness as it sounds likely these go often too. Id like to test first with new bearing/sensor assembly and verify the issue is resolved. Sounds like one more thing ...I should have done... The sensor/bearing that had the issue was front right. When I was spinning the 'bad' right wheel, there was a little bit of noise / little bit of grinding. I just figured the noise / little bit of grinding was coming from brake pads / rotor. But, when I compared the noise from spinning the 'bad' right wheel with the 'good' left wheel. The 'bad' right wheel had more harsh grinding sound - not terrible but harsher than left and a bit different sound. On 'bad' right wheel, I put hands at 6 and 12 o'clock and there was some movement. I put hands at 9 and 3 o'clock and there was some movement. I am not sure how much movement- maybe 1/4" to 1/2"?? On 'good' left wheel, I put hands at 6 and 12 o'clock and there was no real movement. I put hands at 9 and 3 o'clock and again there was no movement (or maybe a tiny bit of movement..but almost none). So this would be further evidence that the 'right' bearing is indeed going bad. |
#8
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Wheel bearing.
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69 Z 302 M21 3.73 http://www.byjanmarie.com/camaro/Z28.html 69 FB 400 http://www.byjanmarie.com/firebird/69.html 69 Camaro 327 4sp. 4.10 http://www.byjanmarie.com/camaro/69camaro.html ( SOLD) 2002 Camaro LE/SLP-(sold) 1967 Nova SS-- 327, M20, 3.73, FRT Disc |
#9
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Just change the bearing and be done with it. I did this on a 2000 Sonoma, should be pretty similar. It was pretty easy hard part was getting old bearing hub loosened up which took an extra 15 minutes.
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going bandit-Reynolds style |
#10
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Check to see if there’s continuity from the connector pins on the sensor to the bearing housing. Doesn’t hurt to turn the wheel bearing while checking also. If there’s any the sensors toast.
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'71 GTO, 406 CID, 60916, 1.65 HS, '69 #46 Heads 230CFM, 800CFM Q-jet, TH400, 12 Bolt 3.55 '72 Lemans, Lucerne Blue, WU2, T41, L78, M22, G80 |
#11
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If there is any play in the wheel bearing, it is and or going bad, replace it. if the sensor is integral to the bearing then at that point it don't matter what ohm or voltage readings you get because the new bearing will have the new sensor in it. If it is the style you can remove separately try getting a ohm reading from the opposite side of the vehicle (the 2 sensor readings should be comparable) if not you know one is bad.
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