#21  
Old 07-30-2020, 08:41 PM
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Put a Unilite kit in the stock GM distributor of pops 74 Cutlass 350 in eh, 78? Lasted about a year or two before it went intermittent. That s**ks. Didn't seem to be heat related, worse. Back to the Blue Streak points.

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  #22  
Old 07-31-2020, 12:53 AM
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I tested the voltage requirements of my Unilite on the distributor machine. Would start to give trouble if voltage dropped below 3.5 volts, but above that it was rock solid. My original Unilite purchased in 1985 is still going strong. I do have two Chrysler resistors in series and the voltage to the unit is about 6.5 volts. About 20 years ago I picked up a second Unilite by trading a fellow a points distributor because he heard the Unilite's were unreliable. That one was put in the street car with the same resistor drop and also still going strong.

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  #23  
Old 07-31-2020, 05:44 PM
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YES....always with a ballast resistor, or if the GM vehicle you have it in was a points type car/truck, it will already have a resistance wire.

Check the voltage prior to connecting your Mallory Distributor to the -(NEG) side of the coil.

With the ignition wire connected to the + (POS) coil terminal and the ignition switch turned on, It should have approx. 9 volts.

Measuring from the + (POS) terminal of the coil with everything connected, my '71 bird had 7. 5 volts with ignition on, not running. And, 9 volts while running.

Replacement modules were $50.00 each 20 years, who knows now.

One more little note about older Mallory distributors.

The vacuum cans are not adjustable, don't know about now. Anyway, if you have a cam that doesn't give you strong vacuum (above 12") at idle, your timing will constantly flutter and drift. They are great distributors, just gotta be mindful of the what not to do's.

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  #24  
Old 07-31-2020, 09:13 PM
Schurkey Schurkey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formulas View Post
On a original points engine you have a wire going from the starter solenoid to the ignition so full 12 volts are provided during cranking for a quick start as soon as the starter is de'energized then the resistor wire coming from the firewall/ ignition switch takes over for running..

For a unilite you want to disconnect that crank wire from the solenoid and you want to test the voltage at the run wire to ensure it's in spec. and go from there.
Ummmm...No. The "R" terminal does not deliver "full 12 volts".

The "R" terminal on the starter solenoid is the ballast Resistor bypass, it connects to the coil and supplies BATTERY VOLTAGE at most, battery voltage minus voltage drop from forty years of corrosion and bad connections is more common.

The ONLY time the R terminal is supplying power is when the starter motor is cranking. The heavy amperage draw of the starter motor drops the voltage at the battery. Typical voltage during cranking is 9--11.5 volts. This depends on the capacity of the battery, and the amperage draw of the starter motor. The starter draws more in cold weather, less in warm. Fairly typical for the coil to get about ten or ten-and-a-half volts during cranking.

Ten or eleven volts should be no big deal...but the module is fragile.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971455HO View Post
Replacement modules were $50.00 each 20 years, who knows now..
Unilite modules are fragile. I have no use for them.

Mallory KNOWS they're under-engineered, which is why they want to sell you a $76 protection box, designed to protect a $130 Unilite module that simply isn't robust enough.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-29371

The "hot tip" is to buy the E-Spark version of the module. I don't know this for sure, but I'm under the impression that the E-Spark version uses the same crappy circuit design, with all the same flaws--but perhaps manufactured with more-modern methods to drive the price down to "only" about 150% of a decent HEI module, which is designed to survive short-term operation at ~18 volts.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-6100m

  #25  
Old 07-31-2020, 10:14 PM
Formulas Formulas is offline
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Shurkey we used different words to say the same thing I am correct in pointing out a wire from the starter solenoid provides full battery voltage to ignition during cranking then when the starter is de'energized the ignition is fed through a resistor wire from the firewall during running

Read again

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  #26  
Old 07-31-2020, 10:52 PM
Schurkey Schurkey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Formulas View Post
Shurkey we used different words to say the same thing I am correct in pointing out a wire from the starter solenoid provides full battery voltage to ignition during cranking then when the starter is de'energized the ignition is fed through a resistor wire from the firewall during running

Read again
I still don't see where you used the term "battery voltage" in your previous post. You said "full 12 volts", and that's NOT correct. "Full 12 volts" and "battery voltage" are not the same when the starter draw has reduced voltage to 9--11 or so.

  #27  
Old 08-01-2020, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lust4speed View Post
My original Unilite purchased in 1985 is still going strong. I do have two Chrysler resistors in series and the voltage to the unit is about 6.5 volts. About 20 years ago I picked up a second Unilite by trading a fellow a points distributor because he heard the Unilite's were unreliable. That one was put in the street car with the same resistor drop and also still going strong.

Same here. Been running a unilite since 1985 or so. Never lost a module.

  #28  
Old 08-08-2020, 12:12 AM
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John Eiseman John Eiseman is offline
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Been running a Unilite since 86 with a Mallory Promaster coil as well.as a ballast resistor. Was on the car when I purchased it so not sure how long its actually been on the car. Also it has no vacuum advance . No issues so far. Thought of changing to a different ignition but" if it ain't broke.dont fix it."

  #29  
Old 08-08-2020, 12:59 AM
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STEELCITYFIREBIRD STEELCITYFIREBIRD is offline
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I have a full Mallory Ignition system in my car. Unilight Dizzy W/O vacuum advance, had the big black (Promaster?) coil, an Inductive storage box, and tach/rev limiter/shift light.
Got it all in like 1986, at The Super Shops .
poofed a coil and pickup a few years ago, left key on.
now have an epoxy coil, and a spare module.
The curve on mine is pretty simple to set the limits, a graduated red plastic key that slips in to set limits, takes about 10 minutes to change limits., changing rate requires further disassembly.
MIne is fine, but I would use a magnetic pickup if using aftermarket.

A retro fit, no way, why would you?

  #30  
Old 10-09-2021, 12:28 PM
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77 TRASHCAN 77 TRASHCAN is offline
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Well my journey concerning my buddies 71 C-10 pickup has been drawn out and a learning deal...
I worked over the Quadrajet with Cliff's parts. It works much better.
Late spring/early summer I tore into the wiring. had both halfs of the under hood harness on the floor. The wiring was all original/not in good condition. Repaired where needed. Cleaned wiring connections, check continuity all over. Found some stupid repairs from previous owner, or before him...

I put it all back together and everything worked fine. The non starting issues went away, everything appeared to be A-OK..........it started every time and ran fine in the shop.

THe owner drove it to his house, it started up and ran fine, the first couple of times, THEN it started acting up...again...
I couldn't work on it most of the summer, not enough time, and it was too hot...

Last weekend I finally pulled the distributor. I had bought a spare module (It was only about $70.00) for him to possibly carry as a spare, as suggested by several posts, here, Thanks!!! BUT if you had to install the new module on the road, it would be difficult...

Thre was a small piece of white fuzz partially blocking the light lens on the module. I hastily scraped it off with a pocket screwdriver, with I had left it intact for a picture. It may have been blowing up against the light also. ALL THE BS I went through to find this out...LOL

I replaced the module with the new one, anyway....I had tested the coil AND the module as per the Mallory website, several times...before this was found out.

It starts and runs perfect every time.........now!!!

This engine will be getting an O.E. type HEI distributor some time in the future.

My words of wisdom for anyone owning a Unilite distributor would be, to on occasion, remove the rotor/reluctor wheel (all in one piece), take a soft cloth and wipe off the light in the module, carefully...

P.S. the Mallory recommended ballast resistor has 1.4 ohms of resistance, IF your vehicle does NOT have resistance wiring already in it. As stated by several in theis thread. The Unilite distributor was made to be a direct replacement for a points distributor. The Unilite instructions even state THAT if you have the resistance wiring still in the vehicle, there is NO need to use a ballast resistor.---------BUT, an interesting thing I found out, is that the factory wiring has 1.8 ohms resistance. I bypassed the factory power wire to the coil, and used a 1.4 ohm ballast resistor, just to make sure.

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Last edited by 77 TRASHCAN; 10-09-2021 at 12:36 PM. Reason: bacon
  #31  
Old 10-09-2021, 12:39 PM
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77 TRASHCAN 77 TRASHCAN is offline
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[ATTACH]574765[/ATTACH
You can see a tiny bit of the fuzz ( cob web?) near the light.
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1977 Black Trans Am 180 HP Auto, essentially base model T/A.
I'm the original owner, purchased May 7, 1977.

Shut it off
Shut it off
Buddy, I just shut your Prius down...

Last edited by 77 TRASHCAN; 10-09-2021 at 12:41 PM. Reason: Wah
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