#21  
Old 05-22-2020, 02:24 PM
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Nice Z Jones. Still miss mine...

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  #22  
Old 05-22-2020, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by RocktimusPryme View Post
Well I made one run. Ran good until about 400 feet and lost fuel. Good ol mechanical fuel system. I also only have a half tank. I stopped at the closest gas station and they only had 87. Didn’t want to put that in, but now I wish I had added a couple gallons so I knew i was keeping the sump covered on acceleration.

Last year I ran 88, this one I massively improved my 60’ but only 82. I’m going to cool down and try to make one more pass. If the fuel system doesn’t give up on me I really think it has a 7.9 in it.
That's a very low 13 at about 102-ish mph. Fuel problems are a headache.

60 foot isn't too bad for a street car, 1.78 is respectable.

I thought you had an in tank pump on that thing with 1/2" lines....??

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  #23  
Old 05-22-2020, 03:40 PM
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Half inch feed but it’s a mechanical Robb MC 1000 pump, with the quarter inch vent like he recommends. Into an SMI q jet. I’m actually not 100% positive this one was the fuel system itself. I think I may be uncovering the sump on hard accel.

Last rear ran twice, once at Indy. Had fuel issues, upgraded the pump, added the regulator and the vent return line. Ran again. Went 8.7 @ 88. 2.2 60’. Clean pass other than the street tires. But that was on pretty much a full tank.

This time, half tank. Same fuel system but a much harder launch, and it dies on me again. So because it ran clean with this same system before I think I might just need more fuel in the tank.

I was very happy with the 60. And yeah I know I’m sitting around 12.9-13.2 with that time. But I lost almost 6mph compared to a clean no bog run. So that I’m not happy with. I feel like it has a lot left to give.

Next time, obviously more in the tank. But I also have a big 950 HP I bought for a race car. I might throw it on and see if the big fuel bowls buy me a bandaid, at least to the 1/8th.

2nd run it lost fuel almost right off the line. Maybe 60-80 feet. Then again @ 400 or so. Maybe because it was hotter.

No wheel hop though. And shaved almost a half second off my 60 with the MT SSs at 19 psi. TSP converter did very well.

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Last edited by RocktimusPryme; 05-22-2020 at 04:05 PM.
  #24  
Old 05-22-2020, 03:56 PM
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Okay gotchya. Definitely sounds like what you're describing.

Glad to hear the MT SS's are working out for you. Great tire. There is probably a little more 60 foot in it too with some tweaking, but gotta get the fuel deal squared away first.

Do you like your TSP converter?

I did a TSP in a Firebird that I built recently and it was fantastic right off the bat.

Did a TSP in dad's car, which is kind of hard to get a hold of, and ended up sending the first one back for a redo. It was a 1 speed going down track. 2nd time around I think they nailed it, drives much better.

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Old 05-22-2020, 04:09 PM
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Yeah didn’t was a typo. I meant to say the TSP did very well. I’ve been really happy with it. I was probably the only person at the track today who drove in. The converter has been very good on the street as well as at the track.

The 60 does have a little more in it I think. I didn’t try to go nuts off the line. I could also air down a little more. As mentioned at the top of the thread, one of my last safety concerns is that rear u joint. The front has a 1350. The rear is a nice solid spicer 1310, but it still is the weak link. And I don’t have a rev limiter so if the joint went it might be a problem. I really need to put in a limiter too.

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Last edited by RocktimusPryme; 05-22-2020 at 04:35 PM.
  #26  
Old 05-22-2020, 07:50 PM
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I think you need a fuel pressure gauge to see what is really happening. Dragstrips do funny things to cars g forces create issues not all fuel related.
What is your engine combo convertor gearing and exhaust? I tried to look but never found it.
When you say you have a big Holley 950hp to try is it a 80496? They only flow 830cfm but work pretty good.

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  #27  
Old 05-22-2020, 08:05 PM
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The holley is a custom job built from quick fuel stuff. It’s an annular booster so it’s probably down a little from 950.

462, mild ported e heads and RPM. Q jet by SMI. Cam is a mild roller, I can’t remember the specs but I can look them up if you want them. Th400, 8.5 with 30 splines and a 3.08. Converter is a TSP specced by Cliff to stall at 3400. Ignition is an accel billet unit with no external box. With no accessories it made 580 hp on the dyno with a spacer and dominator. With a fan and alternator and no spacer I figure I’m probably more in the 550 area.

And yeah I would like a fuel pressure gauge.

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  #28  
Old 05-22-2020, 08:40 PM
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I think you need an electric pump. That's a stout engine to try and feed with a mechanical. Should be a low 11 120mph 1/4 or low 7 97/98 car

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  #29  
Old 05-23-2020, 09:22 AM
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I was thinking high elevens lol. But I would be happier to be faster.

If I had it to do over I would definetely go electric in tank. Like I said earlier I think there is a real chance I was uncovering the sump in the tank. I’m going to go back with a full tank and maybe the Holley. If I’m still having problems. To a pusher pump we go.

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Last edited by RocktimusPryme; 05-23-2020 at 09:32 AM.
  #30  
Old 05-23-2020, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocktimusPryme View Post
I was thinking high elevens lol. But I would be happier to be faster.

If I had it to do over I would definetely go electric in tank. Like I said earlier I think there is a real chance I was uncovering the sump in the tank. I’m going to go back with a full tank and maybe the Holley. If I’m still having problems. To a pusher pump we go.
what regulator do you have? & what do you set it & the pump to? i have the robbmc 1100 pump & his 1/2" pickup as well & am also fighting a fuel issue at the track. similar engine build & converter with 3.23, best of 11.2-11.3 at 121-123mph. i have serious traction issues due to a non drag racing suspension & can only leave off idle with a roll into the throttle. i have ran 3/4-full tank & that didnt change what was happening. i was planning on doing some final adjustments to the pump/regulator this season but so far my local track isnt doing any T&T's due to the virus crap. im seriously contemplating bypassing all that mech pump stuff & just going in tank pump & be done with it. still impressed with getting low 11's & that mph out of a mech pump dialed down to ~7psi.

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Old 05-23-2020, 10:13 AM
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I have Robb’s dead head regulator with the 1/4 vent line like he recommends. It’s set at 7-7.5. I gotta get that water filled gauge out of there. You can basically only read it after first fire. After that it reads way low.

I’m not an expert driver, but I felt like mine hooked and booked. Maybe the 3.08s save me from myself. That was also my first pass ever on sticky tires, so maybe anything was going to feel like it dead hooked.

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Last edited by RocktimusPryme; 05-23-2020 at 11:13 AM.
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Old 05-23-2020, 10:27 AM
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ok so no regulator? all robbmc's pumps are dead head, was just curious if you ran a regulator. im sure you know but the 1100 dialed all the way down to 7-7.5psi is seriously restricting the pumps flow, basically just a 550 pump, to get the better flow it needs to be turned up.

i ran mine up to ~9psi with the regulator at 7-8 but still had issues. the instructions say you want the pump about 3psi over the regulator setting, so at least 10psi . & depending on the year of the carb & the needle/seat size cliff said the later 70's q-jets can handle 8-9psi for short use like at the track. maybe try turning it up a few psi at the track or get a good flowing regulator & go higher on the pump?

  #33  
Old 05-23-2020, 11:10 AM
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That was a typo. I have the dead head regulator. And yeah I think I have the pump set around 10. It’s been a while since I messed with the pump.

I tried to turn the wick up a little on the regulator before the second run, because I had read the same thing you did. But at that point my gauge was useless from heat soak. So I didn’t really mess with it.

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Last edited by RocktimusPryme; 05-23-2020 at 11:18 AM.
  #34  
Old 05-23-2020, 11:22 AM
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Life is so much fun. You improve one thing, have to go back and re-do something you just did. LOL

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Old 05-23-2020, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocktimusPryme View Post
That was a typo. I have the dead head regulator. And yeah I think I have the pump set around 10. It’s been a while since I messed with the pump.

I tried to turn the wick up a little on the regulator before the second run, because I had read the same thing you did. But at that point my gauge was useless from heat soak. So I didn’t really mess with it.
gotcha. i spoke to cliff quite a few times about the fuel issues & pressures, he sent me a couple bigger needle valves to try to increase the flow but i havent got that far yet. yeah get rid of that gauge, i just used a small summit brand dry gauge & it works great even heated up.... but i havent ran it to see when doing a run yet.

  #36  
Old 05-23-2020, 12:17 PM
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I’ve thought about running a small line to a fuel pressure gauge mounted near the windshield. But if my whole system is -8 and I have 6 feet of 3/16 running to the gauge, I feel like the pressure isn’t going to be the same.

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  #37  
Old 05-23-2020, 12:31 PM
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The order of events for the FB's, Camaro's and Nova's are sub-frame connectors (I prefer to "box" and weld them in place and drill clear up thru under the back seat for longer bolts and big washers vs the factory attachment points.

Next the axle tubes get welded into the carrier.

I prefer clamping the front half of the springs and making an adjustable pinion snubber vs any type of visible "traction bar". The adjustable snubber stops upward movement of the diff where you need it and transfers weight, plus eliminates "wheel hop". Bars clear out on the ends of the axle tubes are optional at that point. I also add adjustable drag shocks front and rear to help dial things in.

I've set up scores of these cars in that manner, almost all of them run into the 11's or quicker.

I've had ZERO luck with any sort of mechanical pump for cars that quick. For some reason they hate me. Every single car I've worked with here ended up with a fuel cell or sumped tank, electric pump behind the tank, and -8AN lines/fittings everyplace, then we go on to worry about something else.

Even with that said I like the in-tank electric pump concept, especially if the tank has acceleration baffles and designed to keep the pump in the fuel on a hard launch.......Cliff

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  #38  
Old 05-23-2020, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocktimusPryme View Post
I’ve thought about running a small line to a fuel pressure gauge mounted near the windshield. But if my whole system is -8 and I have 6 feet of 3/16 running to the gauge, I feel like the pressure isn’t going to be the same.
running a small line to the gauge should not change the psi much if at all.

  #39  
Old 05-23-2020, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocktimusPryme View Post
I’ve thought about running a small line to a fuel pressure gauge mounted near the windshield. But if my whole system is -8 and I have 6 feet of 3/16 running to the gauge, I feel like the pressure isn’t going to be the same.
One of my best investments is a electric fuel pressure gauge that is mounted in the car.

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308 gears best et 10.76/125.64/1.5471
  #40  
Old 05-23-2020, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ta man View Post
One of my best investments is a electric fuel pressure gauge that is mounted in the car.
what gauge & how did you plumb it?

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