#41  
Old 05-23-2020, 01:41 PM
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RocktimusPryme RocktimusPryme is offline
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Cliff I would love to see how your mounted your pinion snubbed. Especially if it’s an 8.5.

I have bolt in subframes that I added at the same time as the MTs. I think I’m going to put a weld on the front of them. I also welded the tubes. Not all the way around but I put spot welds on them.

I was looking at electric fuel gauges last night. I don’t understand why you can get a cheap oil pressure gauge, but a fuel pressure gauge is way higher. M

I did have a camera on my wideband for the 2nd run. I was expecting to see it go dead lean, but it really didn’t. Maybe it happens so fast it doesn’t show up in the exhaust.

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  #42  
Old 05-23-2020, 02:07 PM
78w72 78w72 is offline
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Originally Posted by RocktimusPryme View Post
Cliff I would love to see how your mounted your pinion snubbed. Especially if it’s an 8.5.

I have bolt in subframes that I added at the same time as the MTs. I think I’m going to put a weld on the front of them. I also welded the tubes. Not all the way around but I put spot welds on them.

I was looking at electric fuel gauges last night. I don’t understand why you can get a cheap oil pressure gauge, but a fuel pressure gauge is way higher. M

I did have a camera on my wideband for the 2nd run. I was expecting to see it go dead lean, but it really didn’t. Maybe it happens so fast it doesn’t show up in the exhaust.
i will let cliff explain the details more on the snubber but i use one per his suggestions too, mine is a 2nd gen firebird so not sure if they are the same, but basically its just the factory snubber in the factory location & you build a "box" or shim it so its within about 3/4" of touching the pumpkin with the driver in the car. i used a piece of 1"x2" rectangle frame on its side & drilled holes for longer bolts, seemed to help with the traction but havent got any consistent runs yet to verify.

i also have bolt/weld in connectors & decided to weld them at the rear frame & bolt at the front so i can pull the subframe easily if needed. mine are the full length PTFB connectors that dont use the body bushing to connect at the front, they have tabs that slide over the ends of the subframe.

4 good spot welds on the axle tubes are all thats needed, dont need to go all the way around.

  #43  
Old 05-23-2020, 02:12 PM
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My subframes are supposed to have two bolts at the front of the frame, but there was no way. Maybe the poly body bushings are thicker than factory. There was no way the 2nd bolt was going in. So I think I’m going to put some small welds in that I could easily chisel out if need be.

Mine has an 8.5 swap out of a nova. I would think it’s the same as your 2nd gen rear. So your just using a factory snubber but shimming it way up?

I had an adjustable Dana 60 unit pictured in my head welded on. I suppose just using longer bolts and a bunch of washers on a normal unit is much easier.

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  #44  
Old 05-23-2020, 02:20 PM
78w72 78w72 is offline
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strange they didnt fit to allow the 2nd bolt, but im not too familiar with 1st gens so not sure why. i have poly bushings in 3 2nd gens here & they are the same basic dimensions as the stock rubber, providing they have the right hardware, ive seen some poly bushings come with thick washers & some without.

the rear should be the same as 2nd gens & the location of the factory subber on the 1st gen should be the same design where it bolts to the floor directly above the pumpkin. yes just shim it to within ~3/4" of the pumpkin or use a "box" to be a little more solid than a bunch of washers to shim it but either way should work. & you will have to swap it out at the track since 3/4" is too close to drive on the street with it. takes all of a few minutes to swap it with no jacking up the rear. yeah the adjustable snubber is a mopar thing but cliff is correct that it should work just the same on these cars.

  #45  
Old 05-23-2020, 03:11 PM
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what gauge & how did you plumb it?
It's electric so just a sender in the fuel rail. Autometer gauge.

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Old 05-23-2020, 08:19 PM
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I’ve thought about running a small line to a fuel pressure gauge mounted near the windshield. But if my whole system is -8 and I have 6 feet of 3/16 running to the gauge, I feel like the pressure isn’t going to be the same.
One car I have here I run the small braided line, from the fuel block at the carb and up to the cowl, with a mechanical gauge mounted on top of the cowl, hidden under the cowl hood. I think I used a 4 foot line. I've used it like this for 20 something years and always relied on it for fuel pressure readings, and it's been flawless.

On dad's car he decided to go with the in car electric gauge. Which uses a sending unit mounted at the fuel block by the carb, then it's just a matter of running some wiring inside to the fuse box and gauge. It's been on the car for at least a dozen years (probably longer) and has worked perfectly.

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Old 05-23-2020, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Cliff R View Post
The order of events for the FB's, Camaro's and Nova's are sub-frame connectors (I prefer to "box" and weld them in place and drill clear up thru under the back seat for longer bolts and big washers vs the factory attachment points.

Next the axle tubes get welded into the carrier.

I prefer clamping the front half of the springs and making an adjustable pinion snubber vs any type of visible "traction bar". The adjustable snubber stops upward movement of the diff where you need it and transfers weight, plus eliminates "wheel hop". Bars clear out on the ends of the axle tubes are optional at that point. I also add adjustable drag shocks front and rear to help dial things in.[/I]


I've set up scores of these cars in that manner, almost all of them run into the 11's or quicker.

I've had ZERO luck with any sort of mechanical pump for cars that quick. For some reason they hate me. Every single car I've worked with here ended up with a fuel cell or sumped tank, electric pump behind the tank, and -8AN lines/fittings everyplace, then we go on to worry about something else.

Even with that said I like the in-tank electric pump concept, especially if the tank has acceleration baffles and designed to keep the pump in the fuel on a hard launch.......Cliff
Before I came back to Pontiac, I was into Mopars, both A body and B body. All the guys I knew who were consistently winning with few problems did exactly the same chassis work. Before I got smart, my Duster wrinkled the rear quarter near the wheel wells Great advice, Thanks Cliff.

(Apologies to Jeremy for butting in)

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  #48  
Old 08-07-2020, 08:55 PM
shoebox1.1 shoebox1.1 is offline
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I’m extremely interested in doing the snubber idea on my 76 Ventura. I don’t remember seeing one on the car stock

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  #49  
Old 08-08-2020, 02:50 PM
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"Before I came back to Pontiac, I was into Mopars, both A body and B body. All the guys I knew who were consistently winning with few problems did exactly the same chassis work. Before I got smart, my Duster wrinkled the rear quarter near the wheel wells Great advice, Thanks Cliff."

You are most welcome.

Since I started racing Mopars before GM cars I was already familiar with how to set up leaf spring cars without using "slapper bars".

I don't like the look of them, or at least prefer the "stock" look vs any "advertising" hanging down where folks can see it.

Using an adjustable pinion snubber is an easy and effective way to start transferring weight to the tires and controlling "wheel-hop". It's also far less expensive that some of the more "exotic" parts out there designed to help control axle wind-up and pinion angle, etc.......

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  #50  
Old 08-08-2020, 04:58 PM
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Fuel pressure mechanical gage.On my qjet. I installed nut tight like normal. Then I figured where I wanted gage. Mine,2ndgen is outside to left of center of steering wheel. Bracket is long mounted to cowl then laid on windshield with foam to cushion metal against glass up to height I liked. Then I marked qjet inlet nut,approx at 3 o'clock viewed from front. Remove nut,drilled nut and silver soldered brass male fitting for 1/8 metal line. Worked for ever,just got to be careful.

  #51  
Old 08-08-2020, 08:07 PM
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Fuel pressure mechanical gage.On my qjet. I installed nut tight like normal. Then I figured where I wanted gage. Mine,2ndgen is outside to left of center of steering wheel. Bracket is long mounted to cowl then laid on windshield with foam to cushion metal against glass up to height I liked. Then I marked qjet inlet nut,approx at 3 o'clock viewed from front. Remove nut,drilled nut and silver soldered brass male fitting for 1/8 metal line. Worked for ever,just got to be careful.
Thanks, I eventually just said screw the BS a few months ago and went to an LS style in tank fuel pump. SO my fuel problems are over. Save for I think the used fuel pump O ring is leaking at full tank. So ill probbaly have to drop the tank again.

With the front of the springs clamped I haven't experienced any notable wheel hop. On my F body I think the snubber pushes into a socket on the under side of the body. So no easy way to extend if IIRC. I may have to look at it again. I need some type of adjustable drag shocks. My 60s are still lacking.

I also recently added a Pertronix stand alone Rev Limiter. So now my motor shouldnt explode if I lose a U joint.

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