[joepiscitella]

I have been folowing a checklist to remove the front suspension and got stuck on the coil spring removal. I went to auto zone and got a coil compresser and I couldn't get it to fit into where I had removed the shock. So I went to Auto Zone and got their coil compressor kit and basically had the same problem. The only way I could get it up into the coil spring was to remove the hooks before putting it up into the coil. Then I tried to screw the hooks back on to the compressor and there wasn't enough room to get the bolt back in. So I amd kinda stuck. I have read about people using a chain and I am thinking that is my last option. If that is it can someone please tell me if they chained it in two position or one and if you used the frame around the upper control arm. THANKS

[wlpsyp]

Just an update. We installed the front coil springs in the 68 GTO this weekend. All in all it took about 90 minutes to do both. We used the method that Matt stated above and worked out great. Minimal paint marring. I found it easier on the 2nd spring to place the hooks on the 5th coil from the bottom, eiser to push the bottom into the lower control arm. Just used our hands, did not need a pry bar or anything. We did secure a chain for extra protection.

Bill

[wlpsyp]

When we took out the coils we used both hooks as shown in the above picture. Worked good, but took some time getting them in and seated right. I like the idea of one hook and going through the top to help compress the spring to get it in correctly. Only disadvantage I see is if you do not put the hook high enough up on the coil, when you go to release it you may run out of room as Matt stated. We will see as we are going to try and do one tomorrow night after work

Ken why the pry bar?

Bill

[4SLASH6]

I proly diferant than most, but do not like to be near stored energy,as in coil spring comp etc... if you have the motor in the car,I have always just lifted from lower control arm with floor jack,then loosen upper bal joint a few turns, bust upper ball joint with bfh & joint splitter, then remove nut from joint completely, lower jack slowly, if spring dont fall out stick a crow bar in there pry your done. done this way to many times this year, if you got the proper tools out, 50 min in & out.

[Ken K]

To install the springs, use a tool like is shown. Put the rod through the shock hole and screw on the bottom hooks just enough to cover the threads. Use a rubber band around the hooks to keep them together. Push the spring up through the hooks until it's in the upper spring pocket and turn the spring until it stops. When you install the hooks on the coil, you want them facing the spindle. Only compress the spring enough to clear the lower spring pocket. Put a floor jack under the lower control arm and jack it up slightly. Use a pry bar to seat the spring in the lower control arm. Once the spring is seated, jack the car up with the jack under the lower control arm. Crank down on the spring compresser and install the spindle and tighten the ball joint nuts.

[drtex]

Originally Posted by Ken K

To install the springs, use a tool like is shown. Put the rod through the shock hole and screw on the bottom hooks just enough to cover the threads. Use a rubber band around the hooks to keep them together. Push the spring up through the hooks until it's in the upper spring pocket and turn the spring until it stops. When you install the hooks on the coil, you want them facing the spindle. Only compress the spring enough to clear the lower spring pocket. Put a floor jack under the lower control arm and jack it up slightly. Use a pry bar to seat the spring in the lower control arm. Once the spring is seated, jack the car up with the jack under the lower control arm. Crank down on the spring compresser and install the spindle and tighten the ball joint nuts.

I used the method described above,removing the spring , not using a spring compressor, just like he said ,it came out easy and the whole job went faster than I thought it would. My body was off the frame, no motor, what i did was pick up the front end of the frame with a engine hoist and followed the instructions, stated above, I did have to pry the spring out as he mentioned, very simple and easy.

[chipster]

If you are not planning to ever use the springs again you can heat them up red hot with an acetylene torch in a couple of spots to take the pressure off.

[joepiscitella]

I have been folowing a checklist to remove the front suspension and got stuck on the coil spring removal. I went to auto zone and got a coil compresser and I couldn't get it to fit into where I had removed the shock. So I went to Auto Zone and got their coil compressor kit and basically had the same problem. The only way I could get it up into the coil spring was to remove the hooks before putting it up into the coil. Then I tried to screw the hooks back on to the compressor and there wasn't enough room to get the bolt back in. So I amd kinda stuck. I have read about people using a chain and I am thinking that is my last option. If that is it can someone please tell me if they chained it in two position or one and if you used the frame around the upper control arm. THANKS

[78 GHOST]

Remove the sliding set of hooks. Drop the threaded rod down the shock opening.

Also note the threaded hooks are of differing length.. this accounts for the staggered heights of the coil where the hook grabs it.

You must insert the hooks from the opening in the lower control arm, sideways, up into the coil. Then orient the hooks, and lift the center portion to mate with the threaded rod.

[78 GHOST]

Drop down the threaded rod, with a stack of large washers. You must use a number of washers to prevent tool and frame damage. I like to grease them up and then use Silicone Spray lubricant as I work. DO NOT use an air tool on this.

[78 GHOST]

Here's the Armstrong method at work.

Did I mention no impact tools? Just checking to see if you're still awake.

[wlpsyp]

Amanda started her re-assembly of the front end today. I think we are going to try matt's way of putting them in. Seems like a easy way to do it versus using both ends of the coil compressor.

Here is a pic of what Amanda got done today. It is pretty bad I dont get to turn any wrenches

Bill

[Flowjoe]

I've tried the one half of the spring compressor gag...didn't like it and it didn't work well for me. Not to mention that if the frame is painted/coated you tend to mar the finish no mater how many washers and how much grease you use. Plus who has the patience to fish those lose hooks up inside the spring and then re-thread the darn shaft every time you do this. I've done it a bunch since discarding the compressor routine...here is my methodology:

1. Jack up the side your going to work on higher than is necessary to remove the wheel and place a jack stand under the frame.

2. Remove the jack and remove the wheel.

3. place the floor jack under the lower control arm, closer to/under the ball joint is always better. you may want to remove the zerk fitting first to prevent it breaking off. Also, if total disassembly is your goal now is a good time to remove the anti-sway bar end links...sometimes it helps even if you are not doing a total dismantle as they can bind.

4. loop a chain through the front axle of the floor jack and then up and over the frame as close to or through the A-arm cross shaft as possible. Some experimentation with angle and positions will be necessary. use a nut, bolt and washers to fasten to ends of the chain together. If the frame is "ugly" then don't worry about protecting it from the chain. If your frame is "pretty" then cut an old bicycle inner tube in half to make a sleeve for the chain...work it over the chain. I did the inner tube thing eight years ago and haven't had to redo it since. The chain is mostly for safety on the removal but essential for install.

5. Raise up the jack to begin compressing the suspension stop before you lift the car fromthe jack stand. Now is a good time to remove the tie rod end it you are going that far or if it will be in the way.

6. loosen but do not remove the nuts on the upper and lower ball joints. leave them both threaded on the studs about 1/2 to 2/3 their depth (or a full if your cautious).

7. I like to start with the lower ball joint and use a pickle fork to break the spindle loose from the ball joint. It will pop under the pressure of the spring but be stopped from fully unloading by the nut. This also releaves pressure form the spring. now you can back the jack off some to unload more of the pressure. Next use the fork to pop the spindle loose from the upper ball joint.

8. Now you can back off the jack some more and begin removing the lower ball joint stud nuts. Most of the stored energy in the spring is gone as it is no longer at full compression. When the nut comes off there will be a little jump. If you left he upper ball joint nut on then the spindle will be hanging there waiting for you to remove it (if you did it the other way then you will find that gravity works an the spindle assembly will want to fall on you, your jack or the floor depending on the situation).

9. you shoudl be able to lowe the jack the rest of the way after removing the chain. If you set it up right you may be able to do so with out removing the chain. If you are just swapping springs or spindles then don't unhook...just pop the new parts in and reverse the process. The chain keeps the frame from moving away from you as the spring starts to compress. I've used this method with a bare F-body subframe.

Using this method I was able to cahnge out drum brake spindle assemblies for disc brake assemblies on a '68 Camaro Rs (no interior, engine or tranny) in about 45 minutes.

I have only come close to disaster once, in 2003. I was disassemlying my '69 Z/28 to replace the springs and the bushings. Years ago (1988) I had someone else install new springs..they were the wrong ones. I got cocky and didn't chain up on removal. Thought I had all the compression out of the spring...removed the jack before removing the upper ball joint nut. The thing uncoiled and propelled the lower control arm and spindle assempby earthwards. Slammed the dust shield into the concrete (bent it) and missed my leg by inches. Plus it nearly gave me a heart attack. Turns out the spring was a full coil and a half longer than it should have been for that car. But it was user error and not a methodological failing...if I'd followed prceedure then it would have been fine. As I final thought. I have never had any luck reassemblying without the chain as the car always wants to move skyward before one can get the spindle through the ball joint stud. sort of like Tantalus reaching for the fruit over his head.

Good luck either way you choose to go.

[78 GHOST]

And here, I'm demonstrating exactly what NOT to do, note the long hook is pointed forward and on the lowest portion of the threaded rod.

You should orient the hooks approximately 90 degrees to the long axis of the car. Also, move the threaded hooks UP about 1/2 way on the threaded rod.

You see, as I was trying to unload the spring, I ran out of threaded rod and had to loosen everything up, relocate the hooks, and try again. Yippee!! ...NOT

[mothermuxer]

NOt sure about your manufacturer of the tool, but I read on the safety sheet not to use any impact tools, as it will create extra heat. I had one of these strip out while using a plain ol' 1/2" drive... NOT fun. Threw out those underpants!

Anyways, I've done this a few times (not because I enjoy it...). As far as getting the hooks thru the spring, it's just trial & error, and playing with it. Be sure to lube the thread each time you use it. Use some good moly lube. And ALWAYS US A CHAIN! Trust me, if/when that spring compressor craps out, you'll be glad. BE SAFE!!!!
-My 2 cents

[78 GHOST]

Here's the shock opening

[joepiscitella]

thanks for the feedback. if the engine is out (which it is) does that change your plan? again thanks

[4SLASH6]

sorry joe, did not know motor was out,..much riskier,. there are others herethat can help along that line.

[Ken K]

When you compress the spring, it won't be stait up and down. You will need to use the pry bar to get the spring to seat in the lower control arm pocket. I thread the bottom hooks on to the rod and use a rubber band to keep the hooks closed, then put the spring in place, turn it until it stops and then install the bottom hooks on the spring. The hooks should be facing the spindle and crossmember so it pulls the spring in when you tighten it.

[joepiscitella]

Mucho THANKS to all the response. I was able to get the spring compressor in using the method shown above and that worked great for me. I also put the jack under the control arm and slowly use it to take the pressure off until the arm and coil were loose. Success! The coil is out and the upper and lower arms are off! THANKS to everyone who posted and help us get this accomplished!

On to the next step...