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  #21  
Old 01-03-2008, 08:32 PM
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If you go to the bolt on 1's it is the time to install new spring bushings and Cal Trac etc as you will have the springs out. Had a @#$% of a time reinstalling the front spring hanger. GRRRRRRR

  #22  
Old 01-03-2008, 09:17 PM
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I know I just purchased a slide- a-link traction bar to install with the new 9 inch rear .then I thought about subframe connectors. the car allready has new rear springs so hopefully everything will come right out!

thanks for all of the help


Gene

  #23  
Old 01-04-2008, 01:37 AM
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I'm going to go with www.pro-touringf-body.com subframe connectors... they can be bolted or welded... I'll go with welded. As a matter of fact, I'll probably get their whole "Stop Flex Kit" which included the SFCs plus solid body bushings and firewall g-braces. http://www.pro-touringf-body.com/cha...omponents.html

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  #24  
Old 01-04-2008, 08:25 AM
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Not sure about the FB's, but I had to make access holes under the rear seat to install longer bolts and nuts/washers. The bolts pulled out of the factory threaded holes first time we went to the track! I would just go ahead and use longer bolts with nuts and washers for the front spring perches right from the start.

We bought the bolt in CE bars, and welded them in place, a LOT easier than removing the exhaust system and drilling holes!......Cliff

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  #25  
Old 01-04-2008, 08:58 AM
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I had a local race shop fabricate and weld my subframe connectors for around $450.00. I already had beefed up PST suspension and shocks, but with the connectors the handling just got 200% better.

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  #26  
Old 01-04-2008, 01:32 PM
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I used the Alston Racing ones and opted to bolt them in instead of welding, drilling the frame was tough, especially in the rear frame rails as their is double sides on these. Here's a few shots of them.
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  #27  
Old 01-04-2008, 02:40 PM
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when i had a 462 under the hood and did a burnout in front of a friend his eyes bugged out of his head and he told me he saw my car "fold" upwards between the door and front fender...

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  #28  
Old 01-05-2008, 01:33 AM
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i have the global west connectors on my c-word (see sig). easy to install. weld in on the rear rails and bolt on the front with the ability to remove the frame when needed. with solid bushings, motor mounts and suspension bushings, the body has no creaking whatsoever. so quiet you could hear a mouse fart when i launch at the track (except for the exhaust)!

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  #29  
Old 01-05-2008, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guccieng
i have the global west connectors on my c-word (see sig). easy to install. weld in on the rear rails and bolt on the front with the ability to remove the frame when needed. with solid bushings, motor mounts and suspension bushings, the body has no creaking whatsoever. so quiet you could hear a mouse fart when i launch at the track (except for the exhaust)!
I like this method the best out of it all. By only welding the rear in, you leave open the possibility of removing the front subframe without a plasma cutter. So, no creaking with the front bolted in?

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  #30  
Old 01-27-2009, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wheelspin View Post
Weld BOTH ends of the connectors to the sub-frames; it's hard to describe the continous squeaking eminating from bolted on conectors .

Les
So true! I spent hours and hundreds of dollars rebuilding my front susp.as mostly all of us have, only to "bolt in" the sub-frame connectors.Now it sounds like a 30 year old P.O.S. squeaking down the street.My next dollar goes to solid bushings,then straight to the local welding shop!!

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