[Flowjoe]

I've tried the one half of the spring compressor gag...didn't like it and it didn't work well for me. Not to mention that if the frame is painted/coated you tend to mar the finish no mater how many washers and how much grease you use. Plus who has the patience to fish those lose hooks up inside the spring and then re-thread the darn shaft every time you do this. I've done it a bunch since discarding the compressor routine...here is my methodology:

1. Jack up the side your going to work on higher than is necessary to remove the wheel and place a jack stand under the frame.

2. Remove the jack and remove the wheel.

3. place the floor jack under the lower control arm, closer to/under the ball joint is always better. you may want to remove the zerk fitting first to prevent it breaking off. Also, if total disassembly is your goal now is a good time to remove the anti-sway bar end links...sometimes it helps even if you are not doing a total dismantle as they can bind.

4. loop a chain through the front axle of the floor jack and then up and over the frame as close to or through the A-arm cross shaft as possible. Some experimentation with angle and positions will be necessary. use a nut, bolt and washers to fasten to ends of the chain together. If the frame is "ugly" then don't worry about protecting it from the chain. If your frame is "pretty" then cut an old bicycle inner tube in half to make a sleeve for the chain...work it over the chain. I did the inner tube thing eight years ago and haven't had to redo it since. The chain is mostly for safety on the removal but essential for install.

5. Raise up the jack to begin compressing the suspension stop before you lift the car fromthe jack stand. Now is a good time to remove the tie rod end it you are going that far or if it will be in the way.

6. loosen but do not remove the nuts on the upper and lower ball joints. leave them both threaded on the studs about 1/2 to 2/3 their depth (or a full if your cautious).

7. I like to start with the lower ball joint and use a pickle fork to break the spindle loose from the ball joint. It will pop under the pressure of the spring but be stopped from fully unloading by the nut. This also releaves pressure form the spring. now you can back the jack off some to unload more of the pressure. Next use the fork to pop the spindle loose from the upper ball joint.

8. Now you can back off the jack some more and begin removing the lower ball joint stud nuts. Most of the stored energy in the spring is gone as it is no longer at full compression. When the nut comes off there will be a little jump. If you left he upper ball joint nut on then the spindle will be hanging there waiting for you to remove it (if you did it the other way then you will find that gravity works an the spindle assembly will want to fall on you, your jack or the floor depending on the situation).

9. you shoudl be able to lowe the jack the rest of the way after removing the chain. If you set it up right you may be able to do so with out removing the chain. If you are just swapping springs or spindles then don't unhook...just pop the new parts in and reverse the process. The chain keeps the frame from moving away from you as the spring starts to compress. I've used this method with a bare F-body subframe.

Using this method I was able to cahnge out drum brake spindle assemblies for disc brake assemblies on a '68 Camaro Rs (no interior, engine or tranny) in about 45 minutes.

I have only come close to disaster once, in 2003. I was disassemlying my '69 Z/28 to replace the springs and the bushings. Years ago (1988) I had someone else install new springs..they were the wrong ones. I got cocky and didn't chain up on removal. Thought I had all the compression out of the spring...removed the jack before removing the upper ball joint nut. The thing uncoiled and propelled the lower control arm and spindle assempby earthwards. Slammed the dust shield into the concrete (bent it) and missed my leg by inches. Plus it nearly gave me a heart attack. Turns out the spring was a full coil and a half longer than it should have been for that car. But it was user error and not a methodological failing...if I'd followed prceedure then it would have been fine. As I final thought. I have never had any luck reassemblying without the chain as the car always wants to move skyward before one can get the spindle through the ball joint stud. sort of like Tantalus reaching for the fruit over his head.

Good luck either way you choose to go.

[wlpsyp]

Just an update. We installed the front coil springs in the 68 GTO this weekend. All in all it took about 90 minutes to do both. We used the method that Matt stated above and worked out great. Minimal paint marring. I found it easier on the 2nd spring to place the hooks on the 5th coil from the bottom, eiser to push the bottom into the lower control arm. Just used our hands, did not need a pry bar or anything. We did secure a chain for extra protection.

Bill

[Joe]

Thought...Would a sealed ball bearing with the proper OD washer work to prevent marring of the frame vs. using washers? I used this method when installing my new control arm bushings and it worked great. Using the proper OD washer allows the inner bearing race to rotate while not allowing the outer race to turn. Just a thought as I will be installing my springs shortly.

[6t7gto]

joe,
i cut a piece of heavy cardboard and put it between the washers and the frame.
i also greased the washers so they would slide on each other.
didn't mar my powdercoated frame at all.
david

[GoatDr]

Here's a pic of mine using both upper and lower arms. I took upper arms off inserted up into coil then screwed it back toghether. You must compress the center part of the coil not the very ends. It really doesn't have to compress much.

[ADC]

Appologies for posting to an old thread..but as my first post, I want to really thank the guys on this particular thread for some great, helpful information I was needing on installing coil springs on my car....THANKS!

[drtex]

Originally Posted by Ken K

To install the springs, use a tool like is shown. Put the rod through the shock hole and screw on the bottom hooks just enough to cover the threads. Use a rubber band around the hooks to keep them together. Push the spring up through the hooks until it's in the upper spring pocket and turn the spring until it stops. When you install the hooks on the coil, you want them facing the spindle. Only compress the spring enough to clear the lower spring pocket. Put a floor jack under the lower control arm and jack it up slightly. Use a pry bar to seat the spring in the lower control arm. Once the spring is seated, jack the car up with the jack under the lower control arm. Crank down on the spring compresser and install the spindle and tighten the ball joint nuts.

I used the method described above,removing the spring , not using a spring compressor, just like he said ,it came out easy and the whole job went faster than I thought it would. My body was off the frame, no motor, what i did was pick up the front end of the frame with a engine hoist and followed the instructions, stated above, I did have to pry the spring out as he mentioned, very simple and easy.

[xkeots]

Thanks for the update of a great old thread!
This got me past the mental thoughts of having my head ripped off from the spring popping out at me, as I haven't done a front coil spring in over 15 years. It also got me through the removal of a 46 year old spring.
I also realized that the 3 outer spring compressors with a U clamp that I bought from Eastwood, does not fit around the spring, so I had to rent an inner spring compressor from Auto Zone.
I got one side out and I am cleaning and painting the frame before I reinstall the new spring and arms.
I noticed when I pulled apart the arms and took out the front coil spring that there was a rubber insulator that the spring sat in on the lower arm. When I removed it, the rubber crumpled apart from age.
I searched the 1967 Pontiac Factory Service manual and the Pontiac GTO restoration guide 1964-1972 and there was no reference or pictures of this insulator.
Do I need one on each lower arm coil spring seat ? Were they a factory thing or is it possible that the last owner put them in?

Thanks
Jax
1967 GTO

[Old Goat 67]

No insulators in front springs, only on top of rears.

[xkeots]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

No insulators in front springs, only on top of rears.

Any idea what the thick donut type rubber was on the bottom of the lower arm in between the spring and in the lower arm in the groove?

Thanks
Jax

[Old Goat 67]

More than likely an aftermarket height band aid.

[xkeots]

When installing a new set of front coil springs, they just are supposed to sit in the bottom circle groove?
There is not any lip for the spring tip to fit into?

Thanks
Jax
1967 GTO

[tonyk]

This is a great thread and helped me out a lot. The pictured spring compressor kit
Is standard issue at oriellys and autozone. Couldn't use it as it is intended, too much
Of a PITA, so the rod through the shock hole worked beautifully! I recommend
Using some cardboard with washers under the ones provided with the compressed kit. I had a tough Time with regular washers galling on the frame which made it impossible to turn.