[goatman-68]

Hey Jeremy, looks like you have the same steering box I have. Did you buy the pump also? I can't wait to get my car on the road to try out the new handling compared to how it was, (ie) all wore out............ By the way, car looks great...............

[webfoot]

Tom, as far as I know those are the correct pulleys for a 68 with PS. I have never seen a WP pulley as big as this one!

goatman, I did not buy the AGR pump, hopefully it will still work fine. (thanks BTW)

Waited a week for the ball stud, then decided to clean up the clutch fork and found out its all worn out too so I had to get a new one. Sure wish more places used priority mail, you could fit a bunch in the flat rate boxes and not have to wait so long. Got a unit on ebay made by the parts place which is supposed to be a replacement for the factory #9787069.

[webfoot]

Transmission is in. Back to the body. (shudder) Oh well it was a good run! Oh and then to figure out how to make enough money to get the heads rebuilt.

[6869GTO]

Looks good. I believe the pulley's are overdriven on A/C cars,yours look right.

[First Bird]

Underdriven. When the drive pulley is smaller than the device being driven, that's underdive. Right? The device, this water pump, will turn slower.

[6869GTO]

That's correct , and on an A/C car the water pump pulley would be smaller than the crank pulley which makes the pump overdriven,right? I thought Jeremy's car was non A/C , could be wrong.I'm not a pulley expert .

[webfoot]

Originally Posted by 6869GTO

That's correct , and on an A/C car the water pump pulley would be smaller than the crank pulley which makes the pump overdriven,right? I thought Jeremy's car was non A/C , could be wrong.I'm not a pulley expert .

You are right, it is a non-AC car.

I'll post up the WP pulley PN.

[gto4evr]

WP pulley is an 8786819, correct for the non-AC. Yes, some guys run the smaller diameter AC pulley to kick the WP rpms up but not required for a correctly built and timed motor.

Jeremy, haven't visited this thread in awhile, looks GREAT!

[webfoot]

Thanks Dennis!

[69runner]

The way to fix what they call oil canning is to lightly heat the area with a torch until it starts getting red and hit it with a soaked cold wet rag, try a small area first.

[webfoot]

More progress....

Before.. (after countless hours of scraping undercoating & other nastyness)



Today:



Could have finished today but I found a few spots where I missed the undercoating. I got this far with only 2 evenings worth of work, maybe 4 or 5 hours total. That undercoating has been scraped off and I can finish tomorrow in under an hour, then shoot some epoxy primer.

[goatman-68]

Hey Jeremy, looks like its really coming along. Are you going to epoxy prime the bottom before topcoat?? I epoxy primed mine then used Eastwood chassis black, which I was not happy with. Looking back I should have used a 60% single stage urethane. I don't think the original chassis black is very durable, but maybe their extreme chassis black is better but I never used it so I can't say.........

Soon you will be able to go out to the garage wearing good cloths and come back in after a day and still be clean.............

[webfoot]

Yes I have some brand new Southern Polyurethanes epoxy primer ready to shoot on as soon as I'm done with the last little bit of blasting. I got the crud I missed scraped off last night so it won't take long.

I have been using the extreme chassis black and I think it is pretty tough. My frame is painted the same way; epoxy primer and eastwood and extreme chassis black and it has held up well while I have been bolting stuff onto it.

I can't wait to be done with this mess of sand, and to be able to have one of my garage bays back!

[GREATGTO]

I hope you're wearing a good respirator? The silica can cause health issues. Looks really nice though, wish I could get more work done on mine but right now I'm messing with engine builds. Great work though keep going.. For future blasting you can use coal slag aka black beauty, much cleaner no dust.

[webfoot]

I don't think I can get it anywhere around here, may be worth looking into though. Luckily I am done with the bulk of it now. I am wearing a respirator for this stuff and also a hood which I can no longer see out of.

[webfoot]

Started slinging mud at the quarters - had this repop skin dropped a bunch of times and it sure shows! The mud is not very deep though. I have done lots more H&D work and sanding since this photo. Also working on the pass side, and I'll say I would never use those 2 pc patch panels again!



Got the heads back, just need some rocker arms and I can adjust the valvetrain and get it all buttoned up.



Got this OE replated bumper on ebay for what I feel is a pretty reasonable price. Received it yesterday and it is beautiful!

[nh68gto]

Great job, its coming together. That bumper is great looking. That and a few other chrome pieces on mine are still in bad shape.

Keep it going.

[6869GTO]

Looking good Jeremy, your weld seam isn't visible at all. Hope you are using a longer block than one in pic at top of quarter.

[marauder]

Looks like you're doing an awesome job!

[webfoot]

New pics - engine is mostly complete.


Got the "bracket soup" figured out. Then figured out I restored the wrong alt bracket so I'll need to do some more blasting and painting. The one I have finished looks like the alt mounts on the pass side?

Driveline cleaned and painted - main section in eastwood detail gray, ends in cast gray.

Rear is done & this is almost back on all 4s. Yah its a chevy rear, but its what the car came with. This will probably suffice until I can find an 8.5. Cover is not painted because somebody pried at the bottom with a screwdriver to remove it so I'm holding out for a better one.


Love this view.