[webfoot]

Good to have one around anyway. Shop around and get one made especially for auto body, the wood working ones don't really spin fast enough.

You don't really have to take all the paint off, epoxy primer will seal over old paint, especially if it is stuck on that good. I sanded off a repaint but there is still plenty of OE paint under the epoxy.

[codyyy]

When I worked at a restoration shop when I was 17, the guys there gave me a D/A sander and said have fun. The cars that were really heavy on paint I had to break out an Auger to really get rid of it. Some of the cars in there had like 4 or 5 different paint jobs laid on, bondo everywhere, etc.

I've heard of using aircraft stripper but was kinda hesitant to use it. I also saw on Powerblock I believe Muscle Car had a small part of a show which explained a few different paint removal techniques, ranging from chemicals to sanding to different types of blasting. My coworker seemed pretty against using a D/A sander, he said it would screw up the body work but I really don't see his reasoning behind that. I used it at the shop fine.

Anyway, I'll probably continue to use the aircraft stripper to get rid of the rattle can black and the yellow since it strips that off. The Verdoro Green and the primer under it I might just sand with a D/A sander and then primer over that stuff once it is level. I just need to see if anyone makes an electric D/A sander as I don't have a big compressor to run it at this time and would rather run electric if I could.

Other than that, plans for the next couple days will be to get the chains and lift the body off and then take out the engine and trans. I took most of the body mount bolts out today, the two very front ones were kind of a pain. I guess they didn't have "caged nuts" on the '68 model, on my '66 the square nuts had little cages around them. Some of the nuts stripped out the cages but that was easy to fix simply by shoving a screwdriver in the cage.

[codyyy]

Here it is so far:

Would 2 4x4s be enough to safely support the body? I need to lift the front of the body more and somehow clear the trans to shove a 4x4 through. If you look closely you can see the traction bars and Sears adjustable air shocks. I had no idea they made those.
Also, the back of the frame looks like it has a small weld in it which isn't factory. I don't think the car was hit at one time as the body and panels all were aligned fine and the frame is straight. I just can't explain that weld. Looks like it was arc welded.

[GTOBOB]

Here's a comparison shot of the rear of the frame. Looks the same as yours, I think.

[nh68gto]

I found a product called Peeler worked better than aircraft stuff, also believe it or not a good old flat razor blade works great to for paint. That being said in the 68-69 I love the Liberty blue and palladium silver.

You have a lot of time and work before you worry about color. LOL. I made up my mind the week they were ready for color. Body shop did the mud work and color, I did all the fabrication.

You will love the 68 I promise.

[codyyy]

Yeah I'll decide on color later. Right now I just need to strip the paint which is taking forever. I'll try the razor blade, I was using a big putty knife but it isn't doing much. So far I like the '68. I really like the convertibles though but I'll keep this and see how it goes.

[nh68gto]

Get a razor with a nice handle and watch it fly.

[codyyy]

I got the PHS in. I was hoping for more but wasn't expecting this little. It apparently had an HD 3-speed manual, special option rear end, and some tires, that's it. My '66 I thought had little but it looks like the '66 has almost 3x as many options. I'm not going for originality, but it just surprises me at just how stripped down a GTO can be ordered.

[codyyy]

Also, this car apparently had 3.08 gearing. I'm wondering why it would have that gearing with a 3-speed.
Was it a delete option to have a chrome metal front bumper as well? The bumper off this car is chrome and the grilles are silver and say Pontiac on them, probably Lemans or Tempest grilles. I am guessing it was swapped out at some time, I just don't know why.

[codyyy]

I have the body off.

I put the body on 4x4s with cinder blocks. I cut up a pool noodle then cut a slit going down so that the noodle piece would cushion the pinch seam, worked out real good.

Here is a shot of the quarter panel when I first started stripping it, a lot is coming off. What primer should I go with? My coworker said to shoot epoxy primer on it with a spray gun, however I need a better compressor.

Also, what is recommended for undercoating? I was thinking of using Chassis Saver. A friend and I Chassis Savered a subframe for my old '79 Firebird I had, it turned out real well but I'm wondering how a whole underbody would hold up and if I should bother topcoating it. I would do semi-gloss black for the underbody and gloss black for the frame. I don't think a topcoat will matter because the UV rays won't hit it, but I can't be too sure.

[GTOBOB]

Originally Posted by codyyy

<snip> What primer should I go with? My coworker said to shoot epoxy primer on it with a spray gun, however I need a better compressor. <snip>

Here are two choices for epoxy primer:
1) High-dollar guys go with PPG DP90-LF (black, but comes in several colors...e.g., DP40-LF is gray, DP-10 is red, I believe. Most people use the black DP90.). I bought it in early 2007 for $128 for a gallon. The DP401-LF catalyst ran me $38/qt. (need 2 qts since it mixes 2:1). Makes 1-1/2 gallons for $204. The price seems to go up about 20% a year.
2) Low dollar guys claim equal success buying the Kirker EP-612/EP-611 (primer/catalyst) system. It mixes 1:1. Makes 2 gallons for $89. I bought some in February 2010 for this price at a swap meet. This will be my first time using the Kirker, but I don't plan to go back to the PPG.

I coat the epoxy primer with a high-solids urethane primer. High-dollar guys use PPG K-36. Low dollar guys claim equally good results with something like U-Pol "20:25 HS Primer Filler" and their 20:32 catalyst. I bought some in February 2010 for $69. Mixes 4:1 and makes 5 quarts. (NOTE: U-Pol claims you can go directly over bare metal with the 20:25, skipping the epoxy primer.)

For much more info, go to the PY Forums main page and search "Kirker", "DP-90", "DP-40", "U-Pol" etc. (Going to the main page will search all forums, not just this one.)

Since you can prime panel by panel, a world class compressor is not required. The keys are to use a regulator and to keep moisture out of the paint. Shooting final coats is more demanding. (However, I shot an award-winning paint job in 1981 using a Sears 110V. 2HP compressor, so it can be done.)

[GTOBOB]

Originally Posted by codyyy

<snip> What is recommended for undercoating? <snip>

I don't undercoat. I paint the bottom like the top. If you want it black, just shoot the Kirker and stop. If you want color, shoot color. Prep prior to paint is the worst of it. I do a lot of scraping, washing down with lacquer thinner and sand blasting on the driveway.

The frame will be pitted after rust removal (sand blast or chemical), so just slather on some bondo, sand it smooth and paint it with the Kirker. Want color? Shoot color.

I also don't powdercoat anything, for what it's worth, but some people think it's worth the expense.

[codyyy]

Alright thanks. I don't know much about primer or paint. I don't need an award winning paint job, but I don't want crap either. As far as the undercoating goes, I want something that will hold up well to rocks and road debris, I need something that will last. Chassis Saver I've used with real good results and it's cheaper than POR-15, however I'm not sure if I wanna do the entire underbody with it. I might just paint it like you said.

[GTOBOB]

I agree with avoiding the price of POR-15, especially since you've had great results with the Chassis Saver. I say, go for it!

[codyyy]

I'll have to look into what gun to buy first I guess since I'll be shooting primer. As I've said, I only have a pancake compressor, not sure if that will hold up or not.

[webfoot]

You mean the kind they use for nail guns? You won't be able to spray with that.

[GTOBOB]

A 20-gallon 2hp is about the minimum for a compressor. To do any serious sand blasting, you should have a 60-80 gallon 5 hp. A 2-stage with a cast iron compressor is better than a single stage aluminum one. I've had a Campbell-Hausfeld for 30 years, and it runs like new, but they're a little pricey. I don't know how good the units are at Harbor Freight, but the prices will be good there. Maybe someone else has experience on the quality.

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by GTOBOB

Here was the car on "day 1" - a little over 3 years ago. (I am now done hijacking the thread!)

Wow...Now that's inspirational. I'm going to go home and work on mine today! LOL

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by codyyy

I got the PHS in. I was hoping for more but wasn't expecting this little. It apparently had an HD 3-speed manual, special option rear end, and some tires, that's it. My '66 I thought had little but it looks like the '66 has almost 3x as many options. I'm not going for originality, but it just surprises me at just how stripped down a GTO can be ordered.

You've got the same two GTOs I have and they are ALL great cars. I'd like one of each myself and personally, I prefer hardtops in the '68 to '72 body styles.
Now, as for paint removal methods....Get yourself an electric variable speed angle grinder. 6" if you can find one...Make sure its variable speed so you don't grind any holes. You don't need 10,000 rpm to remove paint. I've got a decent compressor but I don't like wearing it out using a DA sander to remove paint. The compressor runs constantly. The electric grinder has no problem running for extended periods of time and that paint will go flying off like you wouldn't believe. You can even use a wire cup on it. Very easy on the metal and still takes paint off nicely.

My '68 had SEVEN coats on it incuding primers and sealers from at least two previous paint jobs and I experimented with several different methods of removal including stripper and razor blades. They all worked to some extent but the electric grinder was the best and fastest IMO.

Here's where it started and after quite a bit of metal replacement, where it's at for now....

[codyyy]

I'll have to figure out something cheap for now, as I want to strip the car but it might take me a short bit to get the money saved for tools and primer, and I don't want it rusting in the meantime but I also don't want it just sitting there without being worked on. I'll have to look for a used compressor, I'd like to get an old reliable one but it seems there are hardly any for sale on Craigslist. The only other problem I have is noise, but if I shut the garage it will be a lot quieter.