[Darth Menace]

Originally Posted by charles bledsoe

I would take a good look at your fuel pump. If it looks to be the original pump or 10 years or older replace it. You can get one at your local auto parts house. There is a diaphragm inside the pump which deteriorates due to the ethanol in the gas. I have a few stations where I live that have ethanol free gas. If you google ethanol free gas you will find a web site that list the stations that have it by state.

will do, I am trying to make a list of priority things and things to do later. I want to get the lines replaced and stuff first, and then get onto the pump.
The thing I love about these cars is the cheapness of parts. I can go to a Napa and pay less then any modern vehicle I have. I guess thats what happens when they are mass produced and the product has been made for 50'ish years

[orangegtojudge]

I ran into this same issue before. I changed the plug wires, plugs, cap, rotor, points and cond., fuel pump, fuel filter, some other things. Car ran great and I thought I had the problem behind me. Took it out for a ride several weeks later and died on the side of the road in my neighborhood. It had fuel and spark. Had it trailered to a mechanic shop. They tinkered with it for a week and determined that the coil was bad. I had always thought they worked or didn't.

[Darth Menace]

I know this is minor stuff in the grand sceme of things, but this had better be worth it for a family summer cruiser. Don't want to tinker on it all winter and end up hating it. I know for a fact I have to get the vibration taken care of before I can enjoy it. Sure it won't be tight as a whistle, but when I was driving it it was vibrating so bad that the rear view mirror was going nuts and the dash sounded as though it had a bee hive in it. I am assuming having tires that aren't ready to explode will help a lot in this area

As for the coil and cap/rotor. Is there any way to test these as far as quality? or is it nothing more than look and see if anything looks worn, etc.

[Ben M.]

Originally Posted by Darth Menace

As for the coil and cap/rotor. Is there any way to test these as far as quality? or is it nothing more than look and see if anything looks worn, etc.

Special equipment is used to test the breakdown of a coil or look at the pulse waveforms. Sunpro and Snap-on have made that type of test gear before, but it isn't easily available to the average hobbyist anymore except as used. I have a portable engine tester in my garage that does both points & HEI for this purpose. Without access to the proper test equipment, you're left changing parts that are "obvious" like the cap and rotor and changing parts that aren't, like the coil. One thing to do is when it starts to run like crap and tries to die on you is have a timing light handy. Put the timing light on each of the spark plug wires while idling as best as it can and see if you're missing pulses - that will let you know if it's spark related.

[Darth Menace]

ya I guess cheap enough replacement for the average guy. This is a long to do list...even more now that I started this thread

[JVM225]

Coils for these cars are pretty cheap too, and readily available.
As far as the rubber fuel line goes; Ideally, you would like to have metal, but in reality, if you use the proper rubber fuel line you are pretty safe.
The fuel line from the tanks to the two small block GM (Mercruiser) motors in my boat are rubber all the way from the tanks themselves to the fuel pumps. That's the way most boats are. I've never had a problem with them, and can't think of anyone I know ever having a problem either.
But, and this is a big but, they are the proper rubber lines made for use as fuel line, are carefully routed throughout the bilge, secured in place, and properly clamped.

[paint guy]

I'm sure what your stating about rubber lines on your boat is correct. But I'll bet there is either some type of heat sheild between the lines and any sources of heat (manifolds, etc) or the hoses are routed away from heat sources a sufficient distance to pose no danger. I'll also bet that when the boat was designed, some engineer knew how much clearance was needed betwwen the fuel lines and any source of heat, and made sure that clearance was observed. Now look at the picture of his motor with the fuel line laying on the thermostat housing and the plastic filter in contact with the valve cover. At the very least I would ditch the filter and remount new fuel line a couple of inches away from contact with any part of the motor.

[Darth Menace]

im replacing the hoses 2 at a time so I don't mess something up. Anyway this was the transmission vacuum line. As you can see the one end is larger than the other and was more or less just sitting on the transmission fitting. I was told that a metal hose is factory, but can I use a rubber 1/4 inch line instead?

[Greg Reid]

Yeah, you can use a rubber line if you want.

[JVM225]

The rubber lines in my boat have no heat shield, but they are Coast Guard approved and routed properly.
I would have no problem using rubber hose in a car if it were real fuel line and was properly routed.

[Darth Menace]

Does this make any sense having this plugged? The 3/8 fitting at the back is also plugged. I am starting to question whether they were on crack when they were plumbing the vacuum lines, and that says a lot of I start to question it.

[Greg Reid]

That appears to be a ported vacuum source. I'm not positive because I don't know that specific carb setup. Not unusual to have it plugged if you have no need for it. Why they would do it with a long hose is another story. It may have gone to the distributor at one point. I suspect that the line directly on the manifold right in front of it may be going there now?
The big fitting on the back usually goes to the brake booster. Where is your booster getting vacuum from now?

[corn goat]

DBL check your plug wires for the correct firing order on the cap and appropriate spark plug.coils go bad with heat .points are cheap.there arent that many things to replace .if its shaking the mirror its timing .if its a fuel problem it will act like its running out of gas .for what time it takes to run around having things teasted you could have bought a new coil fuel filter fuel pump cap wires etc.for no more than a couple of hundred bucks you will at least know what you have.1 tow bill could all most cost you that much.lastly if its shaking the mirror check your drive shaft .On my 69 i just replced so i knew what i have and i wouldnt hessitate to drive it anywhere except the gas price will kill me.good luck. p.s. minimize the rubber lenghts as everyone says and old rubber deteriates from the inside out and will collapse from the inside

[Darth Menace]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

The big fitting on the back usually goes to the brake booster. Where is your booster getting vacuum from now?

See the picture directly below your post? See there is a fitting right above the hose I am holding. That connects to the brake booster.

[Greg Reid]

That one would normally go to the pcv valve. If I'm looking at the right one. The large hose with the 90 degree fitting on the intake manifold?

[Darth Menace]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

That one would normally go to the pcv valve. If I'm looking at the right one. The large hose with the 90 degree fitting on the intake manifold?

That is correct

[Greg Reid]

Ok, the plugged 3/8" fitting at the back should go the the booster and the one with the 90 degree fitting should go to the pcv valve in the valley pan.
The one you're holding in your hand could just be capped off at the carb until you decide whether you want to use it for your distributor advance. Looks like the previous owner is using straight manifold vacuum back to the distributor. That would be the small line next to the one you are holding. At least, I'm guessing that's where it's going?

[Darth Menace]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

Ok, the plugged 3/8" fitting at the back should go the the booster and the one with the 90 degree fitting should go to the pcv valve in the valley pan.
The one you're holding in your hand could just be capped off at the carb until you decide whether you want to use it for your distributor advance. Looks like the previous owner is using straight manifold vacuum back to the distributor. That would be the small line next to the one you are holding. At least, I'm guessing that's where it's going?

Well, when it comes to those sized fittings, the 90 degree you mentioned goes to the brake booster and there is a 3/8fitting on the carb that goes around to some check valve thingy that plugs into the back of the block, below the distributor

[Greg Reid]

Doesn't sound right to me. Can't imagine what the check valve is for.

[Darth Menace]

That's just my stupid made up car language. I will take a picture and post it. Anyway, it goes to the top rear of the motor