[disc0monkey]

Last year I have a wounded trans and a stock converter running 13.6 @ 103 with a 2.15 60ft. Yesturday I raced the car at Englishtown with the rebuilt trans and a Continental 11" converter. First run I kept the car stalled to 800 rpm to keep vacuum up for the brakes, because I really have very little boost in the brakes(original master cylinder (maybe leaking vacuum )) I lined up next to a WS6 in high 12s with slicks. I did a small burnout, and stalled it to 1100rpm and took off. I walked it out not spinning too bad. I caught a little traction midway through first and nailed it spinning a little more now but gaining on the T/A. Now it pulled to about 5400rpm(expecting to shift at 5600rpm) the thing lost ALL power, nose dropped, and just bogged. Shifted into second still bogging. Scared I took my foot off the gas looked in the mirror, no fluid or smoke(checked the video replay no smoke). Waiting a small moment I eased into the gas and power was returned. I ran a 15.5 @ 98mph. This happened everytime I had a 1/2 talk of gas. But the canister to the tank is not hooked up into the carb. This happened almost everytime only around the shift from 1st to 2nd. Note I have a inline filter before the carb, and the thing is usually empty. Shouldn't it be full? I'm thinking its either vacuum or fuel. The best run was a 2.4 13.52 @ 103.4mph.

[disc0monkey]

Last year I have a wounded trans and a stock converter running 13.6 @ 103 with a 2.15 60ft. Yesturday I raced the car at Englishtown with the rebuilt trans and a Continental 11" converter. First run I kept the car stalled to 800 rpm to keep vacuum up for the brakes, because I really have very little boost in the brakes(original master cylinder (maybe leaking vacuum )) I lined up next to a WS6 in high 12s with slicks. I did a small burnout, and stalled it to 1100rpm and took off. I walked it out not spinning too bad. I caught a little traction midway through first and nailed it spinning a little more now but gaining on the T/A. Now it pulled to about 5400rpm(expecting to shift at 5600rpm) the thing lost ALL power, nose dropped, and just bogged. Shifted into second still bogging. Scared I took my foot off the gas looked in the mirror, no fluid or smoke(checked the video replay no smoke). Waiting a small moment I eased into the gas and power was returned. I ran a 15.5 @ 98mph. This happened everytime I had a 1/2 talk of gas. But the canister to the tank is not hooked up into the carb. This happened almost everytime only around the shift from 1st to 2nd. Note I have a inline filter before the carb, and the thing is usually empty. Shouldn't it be full? I'm thinking its either vacuum or fuel. The best run was a 2.4 13.52 @ 103.4mph.

[grandville455]

you ran her out of fuel time to upgrade the fuel system now...it never ends,lol

[disc0monkey]

but in first gear? i thought when u run out of fuel its usually at the top of 3rd. The fuel filter is empty when its just idling though. its weird

[mchell]

Ditto to what Darby said........been there done that. I put a elec. pusher to pump to my carter mech., solved my problems.

[Brian Baker]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by disc0monkey:
The fuel filter is empty when its just idling though. its weird </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

First off, get rid of that POS see through fuel filter. These things are notoriously restrictive. Just look inside the end fittings on them where the filter element is held in place and you'll see what I mean.

Next, if you want to keep a mechanical pump, at least upgrade to the Carter, and forget about the bypass.

Third, insulate ALL of your underhood fuel lines.

[disc0monkey]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Brian Baker:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by disc0monkey:
The fuel filter is empty when its just idling though. its weird </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

First off, get rid of that POS see through fuel filter. These things are notoriously restrictive. Just look inside the end fittings on them where the filter element is held in place and you'll see what I mean.

Next, if you want to keep a mechanical pump, at least upgrade to the Carter, and forget about the bypass.

Third, insulate ALL of your underhood fuel lines. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

So just run the filter in the carb?

I have a carter in there now, with hose going from the pump to the carb, no hard line.

I just don't understand why the filter wouldn't be filled up, it wasn't filled with the old motor and pump too.

I think I'm gonna replace the lines. What size should I put? Also whats a good, not too expensive e-pump? holley blue? I guess the carter can't keep up...although I can't believe it can't.

[DiamondJim]

Don't do what I did. Holley Blue with no return and 6AN with Fram HPG before the pump. Pumps real noisy, Fram as pre-filter is bad. Check out the Mallory 140, worth the extra bucks. I am in the process of upgrading my fuel system. Never had a problem until I put in the 12 bolt with 4.10 gears, now it runs dry at the top of first. My advise is to do it right the first time, sump the tank, run 8AN for the feed and return, that will leave some room to step it up later. Goodluck-Jim

[grandville455]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by disc0monkey:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Brian Baker:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by disc0monkey:
The fuel filter is empty when its just idling though. its weird </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

First off, get rid of that POS see through fuel filter. These things are notoriously restrictive. Just look inside the end fittings on them where the filter element is held in place and you'll see what I mean.

Next, if you want to keep a mechanical pump, at least upgrade to the Carter, and forget about the bypass.

Third, insulate ALL of your underhood fuel lines. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

So just run the filter in the carb?

I have a carter in there now, with hose going from the pump to the carb, no hard line.

I just don't understand why the filter wouldn't be filled up, it wasn't filled with the old motor and pump too.

I think I'm gonna replace the lines. What size should I put? Also whats a good, not too expensive e-pump? holley blue? I guess the carter can't keep up...although I can't believe it can't. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Do not run that restrictive filter in the carb either get rid of it put on a elec pusher or do like jim is doing ..Just run a regular filter before the carbs inlet line with 3/8 inlets thats what i did..

[disc0monkey]

would you recommend leaving the carter mechanical and put a mallory electric on a switch for quiet operatiion for street driving or taking off the mechanical and always have the electric. If i do put a mechanical can i put a canister type filter before the mechanical?

[DiamondJim]

I know there will be several deifferent opinions but I say just run the electric, Mallory Comp 140. I will be running a BG5000 before the pump. It filters to 8 microns and capable of flowing 5000 gph, should be enough for a 747 I may be going a little overboard but I want to kill this Gremlin and never look at it again! -Jim

[Brian Baker]

I ran a Mallory-140. Both street and strip driving. A little noisey, but with 2 chamber Flowmasters dumping just behind the axle, you barely noticed. Sumped tank and ran 1/2" (-8an) line with no bypass...never had any troubles.

[disc0monkey]

one more question, what is that canister behind the passenger headlight? That is not hooked up in my car. Should I hook it up, and where. That air in the filter makes me think its not the pump. I talked to a few people and they say the filter before the carb should be full. I mean I look at the filter when the car is idling and it is barely getting any fuel in there. Maybe my return line is plugged...idk. Im running a Cliffed Q-Jet, I just don't think I have too much power for my Carter. I think there is another problem, because at idle or a rev to 1100 rpm in neutral only a little bit of fuel is going into the filter. Could this be from a kink, maybe the rubber line from the pump to the carb?

[screamingchief]

In my experience if you plug the return on a stock style pump the pressure INCREASES,enough so that quite often it will blow the needle off its seat(more-so on Q-jets).

The canister you are refering to is the evaporitive emission canister.It is a canister to vent the fuel tank through,it is filled with charcoal that filters the fuel vapors so that only they can then be reclaimed upon startup.

If someone has plugged that line at some point in the system(before the cannister)the fuel tank will not vent properly and WILL cause problems.

The line for the cannister runs under the core support over to under the master cylinder,then continues under the car to the drivers side of the fuel tank area where it goes into the vent standpipe which makes sure that only vapors can get thru(even when the nose of the car is lower than the rear).Then from the standpipe it goes to the vent line from the fuel tank.

If the line has been plugged the pump can actually pull a vacuum in the fuel system as cause major havoc.

The cannister does not necessarily have to be hooked up to the carb,BUT the line running to the tank absolutely should not be "capped off".Unless of course the venting is addressed by other means(gas cap,new vent setup).

As far as fuel filters,if running an electric(pusher or?) a good high quality filter,with low restriction before the pump is wise.And a smaller "last chance" cannister style before the carb is a good idea also.I dont like the built in filters in the carbs,I always rely on the cannister style before the carb to do the job.

I WILL NEVER use those clear see-thru style! I have seen TOO MANY of them come apart to even think about it,and like Brian pointed out they are VERY restrictive.I just use a standard 3/8" in line cannister style filter available anywhere,nothing fancy.High quality ones are also available from many hi-po co.s.

To avoid trapping air in the cannister style filter always try to mount it vertically when possible as this will allow the air to escape easier.

Oh yeah,one last thing.If the system is not venting properly and it is indeed creating some vacuum in the system,it CAN collapse the rubber lines on the suction side of the pump.

[disc0monkey]

Ok, I am going to get rid of the both the clear filter and the filter in the carb. Im going to insulate all the lines in the engine compartment. As for the evap deal the line going to the tank is fine, I only plugged the line going to the carb. Im going to check for any kinks and Im assuming rubber line is fine and a vertical canister is on order. I'll see what happens. If not a mallory 140 pusher will be on order with some 8AN lines

[SlowSpitzer]

I had the same problem once. Gas cap was bad. Supposed to be vented.

[68lemans462]

My car noses over hard at mid second gear. I have 3/8" lines with an AC mechanical pump and a carter pusher.

I am currently gutting the old system and installing a Mallory 140 pump/regulator/new tank pickup/regulator all in -8AN. Car was running 13.50s with NO gas last year. I'm expecting some gains with the new fuel system...

[disc0monkey]

how do you guys run 3/8s or 8AN when the my carter mechanical pump has 1/4 coming out of it?