[tjs72lemans]

My engine is in. I installed a new throttle cable. It appears there is about 3/8" slack in cable at pedal before the end catches accelerator rod and pulls on carb. Also, as slack is being taken up, the kickdown switch on accelerator pedal is being activated or sliding. Not sure if any of this is normal, since I've never driven this car. I assume the kick down slider on the accelerator pedal doesn't downshift until it is moved quite a bit? Anyone?

[ponchjoe]

Are you talking factory parts and 68-71 or 72 throttle bracket? Pics are worth a 1000 words on this one. Can you post some?

[tjs72lemans]

Yes, this is on a 72 Lemans with 400. Inside at the pedal, I insert the plastic clip to capture the throttle cable at the accelerator pedal rod. With pedal at rest, there is 3/8" before I push accelerator pedal to make contact with ball on end of cable. Does this ball on end of cable normally contact accelerator rod at rest? I have a hard time posting a pic.

[Scott Thelander]

time to bend the z bar ..... in the vise

can you pull the cable from inside the car and get full throttle under the hood ??

[69gtocv]

New throttle cable? As in a reproduction or did you find a NOS one? I wonder if the cable is too long. 72 is a one year only deal. I'll be keeping an eye out on this thread as I'm converting mine to 4 bbl from 2 bbl

[HWYSTR455]

I found when I went from a 2bbl to a 4bbl, I struggled with a handful of cables, never could find one that actually worked. Granted, this was a while ago, but none of the ones that were supposedly 'correct' were, um, not.

I ended up using a Lokar one, but obviously, that's not what some want.

Now to comment on the OP's 'slack', it doesn't necessarily mean that slack is at the pedal end, hope you realize. The correct bracket in the engine compartment is one of the biggest issues. Most were an odd, specific bracket, that basically only fits the OE intakes. Also, most are specific to a Q-jet.

What cable are you using, which intake, and what carb?


.

[DavesGTO]

I got this from Summit. Looks and works good just one problem. I got the ball/threaded end from Ames, the ball snaps in the cable end fine but the threaded end was too big for the carb side. I filed down the threads just enough for them to fit the bracket and then ran a die over them. No problems just need to be careful when filing the thread end down as you want it to be as large as possible but still fit in the bracket hole.

BTW, Lance has one on eBay if you want to pay the price.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[tjs72lemans]

This is a new cable and it measured exactly to my old one ( the square on the old one was broke). I can push my accelerator pedal until that 3/8" slack is taken up before the carb is opening. This is the factory carb and intake. I can only assume I have the factory bracket the cable attaches to on intake. It came with the pile of engine parts. I will check wide open throttle when I push pedal to floor.
Scott, not sure about Z bar. Only Z bar I'm familiar with is on my 55 Chev with a 4 speed.

[69gtocv]

Originally Posted by tjs72lemans

This is a new cable and it measured exactly to my old one ( the square on the old one was broke). I can push my accelerator pedal until that 3/8" slack is taken up before the carb is opening. This is the factory carb and intake. I can only assume I have the factory bracket the cable attaches to on intake. It came with the pile of engine parts. I will check wide open throttle when I push pedal to floor.
Scott, not sure about Z bar. Only Z bar I'm familiar with is on my 55 Chev with a 4 speed.

Can you advise where/from who you bought the new cable for when I go to buy mine?

[HWYSTR455]

You measured the cable and it was the exact same length as the original? An original that worked? Was the housing the same length?


.

[tjs72lemans]

I bought it through National Parts Depot.
I assume the original worked. It was on the car with motor out. But, the square plastic was broke where it confines itself within the bracket. Every aspect of the old cable was replicated with the new one. But, I have no idea what I am suppose to expect now that I have the motor rebuilt and installed. I just assumed the cable should be taught enough to be touching the accelerator pedal rod without any slack. It seems there is no adjustment for such.

[Mister Pontiac]

Originally Posted by tjs72lemans

I assume the original worked. It was on the car with motor out. But, the square plastic was broke where it confines itself within the bracket. Every aspect of the old cable was replicated with the new one. But, I have no idea what I am suppose to expect now that I have the motor rebuilt and installed. I just assumed the cable should be taught enough to be touching the accelerator pedal rod without any slack. It seems there is no adjustment for such.

TJ, assuming your carb is a correct 72 carb (with the correct cable attach bracket & post), and you have the correct cable mounting bracket on a correct 72 intake, it should install correctly and take up that 'slack' you're talking about. I went thru all of this myself on my 72 LeMans GT earlier this year when I installed a 455 & Q-jet.

The picture below is my 72 LeMans GT. Again, I used a correct intake, carb & cable to intake bracket for the 455 install. Perhaps the only difference is I may have an additional return spring (or two), but the fit and function is accurate for 72. Mine also has a broken piece of the plastic clip where it installs in the bracket, but I was able to work with it (temporarily) using zip ties.

Hope this helps.

[tjs72lemans]

Thanks for the pic and clarification. That's the same bracket and set up I have (less one spring). Everything is original to the car (motor, intake, carb),

[HWYSTR455]

Then I guess you need to check if you get full throttle with the setup. If not, you might be able to add another retainer at the pedal/cable location to space it out.

Only other options would be to either bend the pedal rod, or space the housing on the bracket back.

.

[tjs72lemans]

I checked and it seems I may be short a tad on full throttle with pedal down all the way. I was thinking I may need to add something between rod and pedal. I'd hate to have to remove pedal and bend. It would be tough to get it bent just enough, but not too much.

[HWYSTR455]

That's what I was saying, that you can take up some slack by stacking the retainers at the pedal end, or use washers between the retainer and the rod to take up slack.

Might be able to cut a piece of steel tube, slide it on there, and crimp the end.

If it's very little, might be able to do something on the engine side. Maybe even move the ball to another hole.


.

[tjs72lemans]

Being a machinist, I actually made a retainer before I realized I could buy one. Now I may go back and make another, but thicker to compensate for the gap.