[MarkS57]

Originally Posted by Steve C.

Was the mayonnaise jar was sealed tight in order to prevent a accidental vacuum leak ?


.

Hermetically sealed I believe..

[GTO JONES]

My guess intake vacuum leak.

[Va68goat]

GTO JONES,
As you can see in last videos, the motor was not idling well at all when it was last delivered. When Paul last dyno'd the motor, I believe he noticed an oil leak at the valley pan. He addressed the valley pan but apparently a significant vacuum leak was missed. We replaced the intake gaskets and the motor is idling much better. After we fixed the vacuum leak and started the motor..the exact same knocking noise was present. So I think it's safe to say that the knocking noise is not from a vacuum leak. The gas tank is brand new and the gas thats in the tank is maybe 3-4 months old.

[Va68goat]

Here is the video that we took BEFORE the vacuum leak was fixed at the intake.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gbt6ai8AI3A

Here is the the video that we took AFTER we replaced the intake gaskets and the vaccum leak was fixed. The idle is a little higher than I would like. This is around 1,000 RPM at idle. (knocking noise still present)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yq50JqWYRqQ

[Formulas]

Have you taken the PCV valve out and put your thumb over it while running yet?


.

[Va68goat]

Formulas,
Yes we tried that and the knocking noise was still present!

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[Mister Pontiac]

With all that you've been thru to this point, I think you've eliminated any big conspirator of major damage occurring.

If it were me (and I know it's not), I would simply start driving it, enjoy it, and monitor the knocking. If it truly is a 'mechanical' knock, it should quiet down with miles as it "self-clearances." If it's not a mechanical knock, you won't notice a change as the miles pass. It's my thought that this is your best path forward to an ultimate solution.

Good luck, and hope you get to enjoy the engine and plenty of seat time soon!

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by Mister Pontiac

With all that you've been thru to this point, I think you've eliminated any big conspirator of major damage occurring.

If it were me (and I know it's not), I would simply start driving it, enjoy it, and monitor the knocking. If it truly is a 'mechanical' knock, it should quiet down with miles as it "self-clearances." If it's not a mechanical knock, you won't notice a change as the miles pass. It's my thought that this is your best path forward to an ultimate solution.

Good luck, and hope you get to enjoy the engine and plenty of seat time soon!

Ditto. I wold make sure 5 and 7 wires were not backwards and drive the piss out of it!!!

[Va68goat]

Mister Pontiac,
I have to disagree with that. I have too much money and time invested in this motor to accept a motor that knocks. There's something wrong with this motor and the last thing I'm going to do is drive it. The knocking noise needs to get identified and repaired.

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[promptcritical]

Take it out of the car and disconnect “everything” and run it on a test stand so you can get your hands on all of it. That’s a possibility and at least does something to try to diagnose it. Then you’ll know.

[ponjohn]

Originally Posted by promptcritical

Take it out of the car and disconnect “everything” and run it on a test stand so you can get your hands on all of it. That’s a possibility and at least does something to try to diagnose it. Then you’ll know.

I agree.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by promptcritical

Take it out of the car and disconnect “everything” and run it on a test stand so you can get your hands on all of it. That’s a possibility and at least does something to try to diagnose it. Then you’ll know.

https://www.amazon.com/Larin-METS-1-...s%2C270&sr=8-8

This one is worth every penny!

[Gary H]

I know this isn't much help but it sounds like valve train noise to me. Have you tried removing one plug wire at a time while it's running to see is the noise changes on a given cylinder?

[Va68goat]

We've pulled one plug at a time several times throughout the last two years. The knocking noise never changed and was always present.

The motor was on the dyno 4 times and the knocking noise wasn't heard because there were no mufflers on it. I dont have access to an engine stand. We've done about 165 hours of diagnosis on this motor but we've never totally disassembled it.

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[MarkS57]

I have to say a mechanical knock is a knock. Myself, I was distracted by the distributor bushing and the pump drive shaft. While I'm not totally discounting that, it might be that when Paul saw the distributor issue, he might have thought ah-ha, that's it- when it might be and it seems to be, something completely separate from the distributor. So there could well be two problems with this engine the first time around.
Anyway, have you made any progress with identifying a nearby shop to help out?

[Scott Stoneburg]

Ok..this has probably been answered..but is the cam a roller/hydraulic roller? If so what valley pan is on the motor. Like I said, Probaby answered already. But I cant read the whole thread to check

[grivera]

Originally Posted by Scott Stoneburg

Ok..this has probably been answered..but is the cam a roller/hydraulic roller? If so what valley pan is on the motor. Like I said, Probaby answered already. But I cant read the whole thread to check

Hydraulic Roller cam/lifters, Tomahawk valley pan

[Scott Stoneburg]

Originally Posted by grivera

Hydraulic Roller cam/lifters, Tomahawk valley pan

Cool. When was the last time the oil filter was checked for metal? If recent and there is no bearing material in the filter my guess is the lifters ( 1 or more ) making contact with the valley pan. I know it was probably checked when the motor was assembled, but I just read that the valley pan was pulled to fix an oil leak. Was a gasket used or just sealant? If no gasket then that would nake the pan a little closer to the lifters.

[64speed]

I can’t believe how expensive oil filter cutters are. I mean I bought one for my engine obviously but Jesus it’s just a large tubing cutting. The cheapest one I found was from speedway motors with free shipping on amazon. Still 51 dollars. That’s ridiculous

[Paul E]

Take an oil sample and send it in. The results will tell you more about if something is rubbing than most other things. cost is likely under $30. Make sure to take mid stream