#81  
Old 05-24-2017, 08:40 PM
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Judge273 Judge273 is offline
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Chris, you do great work!

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  #82  
Old 05-27-2017, 04:11 PM
eaglesan13 eaglesan13 is offline
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Thank you Keith (and Mike). I'm not trying to sell my work short, I was just trying to establish that there are different levels of restoration/refurbishment, and the trans am is basically in really nice shape, and therefore did not require substantial restoration work.

As to the "drive report," well I've had the car out a few times now and it feels really good. Obviously I haven't stuffed my foot into it yet since the engine is fresh, but I can tell it's gonna be a runner. It's got good, smooth power.

Keith, you know how this car feels; it really does feel like a car with only 17,000 miles on it, very tight and smooth. It's a little noisier now with the M22 gears in it, but its still a very comfortable car to drive. I still need to put the new gardner exhaust system on it and install the hood. Then I'll be hanging some miles on it.

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Originally Posted by keith k View Post
Don't sell your work short - that Castillian Bronze Formula was much more of a restoration than justifies the term in most people's eyes!

Congrats on getting the T/A back into a running state so quickly. I'm looking forward to the drive report-

  #83  
Old 05-30-2017, 04:36 PM
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I haven't installed the Gardner exhaust yet...that will be next, but I really like the sound of this cam...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nILY...ature=youtu.be

  #84  
Old 05-30-2017, 07:09 PM
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Sounds very nice!! Where are the burn out pics??? I know after the engine break in period...


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  #85  
Old 05-30-2017, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eaglesan13 View Post
I haven't installed the Gardner exhaust yet...that will be next, but I really like the sound of this cam...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nILY...ature=youtu.be
Sounds great - definitely a bit "lumpier" than it was before

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Originally Posted by 455hota View Post
Sounds very nice!! Where are the burn out pics??? I know after the engine break in period...
If it keeps accumulating miles at the rate it has so far in its life, that will be another three years...

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  #86  
Old 09-12-2017, 02:15 PM
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I finally finished restoring the KR rims I bought for my car. As I stated earlier in this thread, according to the GM of Canada docs the car came equipped with rally II's. The original owner (Wayne) said the car had honeycombs on it when he bought it, which is possible since the advertising people had the car for 14 months before it was sold new. Anyway, I wanted to get a set of the correct rims for it.

Poncho Mike said his 71 was also built in February and had KR rims dated December 30th and January 4th, so that is what I looked for. After some buying and trading, I wound up with six KR rims total. Four are dated December 30, 1970, which I will mount on the car, and the other two are both dated January 4, 1971. I will use one of those for the spare.

I followed the restoration procedure Keith K used on his rims (See post #117 in the following thread).

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...+silver&page=6

I also bought a set of Goodyear Poly Glass GT tires and had them mounted on the KR's, so I'm ready to put the rally wheels and Goodyears tires on the car. I also plan to put a set of new Radial TA's on the honeycombs, so I can run those if I want to.
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  #87  
Old 09-12-2017, 02:46 PM
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Gotta love the look of the Polyglas GTs on the KRs. Nice work.

  #88  
Old 09-12-2017, 03:11 PM
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Well backed up there with nice wheels.

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  #89  
Old 09-12-2017, 03:54 PM
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Wow, those wheels and tires look great Chris. That is going to be the crowning touch to your TA.

Dennis

  #90  
Old 09-12-2017, 07:27 PM
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Rims and tires look great! Be sure to post pics when installed.

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  #91  
Old 09-12-2017, 08:49 PM
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Nice job - going to look great on the car, Chris!

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  #92  
Old 09-12-2017, 09:07 PM
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The wheels look great. Fantastic job. Please share pics once you get them installed.

.

  #93  
Old 09-14-2017, 01:52 PM
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I put the wheels on the car, then tried to install the new NOS center caps that I has stashed away for this project, but I can't get the caps on. It seems like they are too big, and I can't get the cap clips pushed inside the wheel center. I've never had a problem like this before, but does anyone know if there are different sizes of center caps, maybe for 14 inch versus 15 inch wheels? Or, if not, is there some trick to get the caps on (without scratching the rims)?
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  #94  
Old 09-14-2017, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eaglesan13 View Post
I put the wheels on the car, then tried to install the new NOS center caps that I has stashed away for this project, but I can't get the caps on. It seems like they are too big, and I can't get the cap clips pushed inside the wheel center. I've never had a problem like this before, but does anyone know if there are different sizes of center caps, maybe for 14 inch versus 15 inch wheels? Or, if not, is there some trick to get the caps on (without scratching the rims)?
Chris,
it's much easier to install the caps with the wheels off the car, with the wheels laying flat on the ground (right side up). Still not easy, but easier. You can set one tab (of the cap) in first, then pry the others in with a large, flat head screwdriver (or similar tool). You'll notice there are 3 slots in the center of the wheel opening. I believe this is where the cap tabs fit in. It is tough not to scratch the wheels though...

  #95  
Old 09-14-2017, 08:16 PM
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Maybe you should consider doing the modified locking mechanism. There was a post on the forum about it. It is a secure method to secure the caps to the wheel so they can not be stolen. Not sure if this mod will work with NOS caps, but I would look into it.


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  #96  
Old 09-14-2017, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 455hota View Post
Not sure if this mod will work with NOS caps, but I would look into it.
Yes, the repro caps and NOS are the same in how they're designed. I installed the screw-on locking plates on my TA's center caps, and they are original GM parts (three of them anyway, one I had to buy repro since the original went missing after a run down the bumpy dirt road...)

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  #97  
Old 09-14-2017, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue71ta View Post
Chris,
it's much easier to install the caps with the wheels off the car, with the wheels laying flat on the ground (right side up). Still not easy, but easier. You can set one tab (of the cap) in first, then pry the others in with a large, flat head screwdriver (or similar tool). You'll notice there are 3 slots in the center of the wheel opening. I believe this is where the cap tabs fit in. It is tough not to scratch the wheels though...
That's what I do but I always have somebody else helping out Sometimes even three guys on a wheel and we still end up scratching the wheel occasionally

  #98  
Old 09-15-2017, 03:43 PM
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Default Seatbelts

About three years ago I was in a local Pick N Pull yard and came across a 1971 Firebird. It was mostly picked clean, but the deluxe seatbelts were still there (although it was missing the shoulder harnesses), so I grabbed the belts. About a year or so later, I bought my 1971 trans am, which came equipped with standard seatbelts. Sometime later I was doing some parts buying/trading with James (blue71ta), and as part of the deal, I dealt the deluxe seatbelts to James. They were saddle, and needed restoration, so I figured I didn't need them.

I think it was about a year later when I saw an eBay auction for a complete set of deluxe saddle seatbelts. The bid was fairly low, so I placed a bid, even though I expected to be outbid. I was surprised when I won the auction. Later, when the belts arrived and I saw the return address, I realized I had just bought my belts back from James. I think I paid less than I got for them, and I even got the shoulder belts which were missing when I sold them (Thanks James).

I'd never had seatbelts restored before, but I'd heard it was quite expensive, so I did some shopping around and located a woman in Texas who said she used to work for Snake Oyl, and had started her own seatbelt restoration company. The price she quoted was very reasonable compared to what I had been told it cost to have belts restored, so I decided to get my belts redone. Part of my decision to get the belts done was because every frigging buckle in my car rattles. I've heard there is a foam piece in the buckle that acts as an "anti rattle" device (I don't know if that's true or not). Anyway, I was told the foam piece deteriorates over time, and then the buckles will rattle. I checked all the deluxe buckles I had and none of them rattled when I shook them, so I figured maybe there were made differently.

Anyway, I went ahead and authorized the work last October, and since they were deluxe belts and my interior is blue, I had the belts restored in blue. The belts were supposed to be done in eight weeks, but that didn't happen. There were many excuses, (I won't cite them all here), but three weeks ago I said "enough." I sent an email advising that if the belts were not done within the next two weeks, I wanted to cancel the order. I received a reply apologizing for the delays with a promise to complete the work within the next two weeks. I was also told I would receive a 20% discount for my trouble.

The belts were not done when promised, but it was only a few extra days when I received an email stating they were done and had been shipped (I got a tracking number). The belts arrived today, and they look very nice. I'm still not sure if I'm going to install them or just stick with the originals in the car, but I'm very happy with how this turned out. I know a used set of blue deluxe seatbelts sold on eBay about a year ago for $750.00, and I'm into these for a lot less, so I guess it worked out.

Regarding the labels, I used the original belt date codes as reference and just had them duplicated on the restored ones (which is why some of the dates are different).
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Last edited by eaglesan13; 09-15-2017 at 03:52 PM.
  #99  
Old 09-15-2017, 03:45 PM
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More pictures...
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  #100  
Old 09-15-2017, 03:47 PM
eaglesan13 eaglesan13 is offline
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more seatbelt pictures...
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