[Scott Stoneburg]

Looking at buying one of these. Not sure which is the better option. I like the Milodon tray because it doesnt attach to the oil pan rails. But will probaby need the most work to clear the 4.5" stroke. The 2 Canton trays both say in the description that they will clear the 4.5" stroke. Which optiin is better of them? The screen or louvered version and why? Thanks for any input

[shaker455]

Hey Scott,
I always use the Canton # 20-918
Even though I have to do some fabrication to accommodate the dip stick tube.

[Scott Stoneburg]

Thanks Jeff. I wont be using the stock dip stick. So no issues there.

[janderson]

If you decide on Milodon, have one w/stud kit that was installed and then removed.
Don’t have original boxes.
$75.00 shipped.

[Scott Stoneburg]

Originally Posted by janderson

If you decide on Milodon, have one w/stud kit that was installed and then removed.
Don’t have original boxes.
$75.00 shipped.

It bolts to the main caps similar to a factory tray? Or does it bolt to the main studs?

[Dragncar]

I have a new Canton, 50$ + ship

[Hooter]

I haven't ran a windage tray for years in any of my race or street motors.

[janderson]

Originally Posted by Scott Stoneburg

It bolts to the main caps similar to a factory tray? Or does it bolt to the main studs?

Stud kit is 4 studs with a threaded extension that replace main stud/bolt(s) and supports the tray.
Allows for height of tray to be adjusted.

[Scott Stoneburg]

Originally Posted by Hooter

I haven't ran a windage tray for years in any of my race or street motors.

I dont have a tray in my current 474 but i have in the past ran one in each of my builds. I had the Milodon tray in my last 461. It was a casuality of stock rods at 6600 rpm for many many years. I had 2 stack trays break apart before that.

[chuckies76ta]

Originally Posted by Hooter

I haven't ran a windage tray for years in any of my race or street motors.

Care to share your thoughts as to no windage tray? curious.


Thanks Charles

[BADDTA]

We run a crank scraper with a Canton pan. Never ran a windage tray. Building a new 475 aluminum IAII for my son and we are not installing a windage tray in that. More harm than good can come from them. JMO

Brian

[Scott Stoneburg]

Interested in what harm you say they will cause. I've never heard they have a negative impact on anything

[slowbird]

Originally Posted by Scott Stoneburg

Interested in what harm you say they will cause. I've never heard they have a negative impact on anything

They cause harm when they come apart. We stopped using the ones that attach tobthe caps as the all seem to crack/break at some point.

[Scott Stoneburg]

Originally Posted by slowbird

They cause harm when they come apart. We stopped using the ones that attach tobthe caps as the all seem to crack/break at some point.

I did have 2 stock pans crack and cause issues. The Milodon tray was good until the broken rods cut it apart.

[Old Man Taylor]

Here are some pictures of problem windage trays. I'll look for the picture of the one I modified to still use it.

[Old Man Taylor]

Here's what I did to mine to run the full length tray. The shorter one is stronger as the metal they used was thicker. These pictures were before I drilled the drain holes.

[mback12000]

Back to back dyno testing (no other changes) for me with a stock windage tray (except for 1/2" drainback holes added) showed nearly 10hp gain but more importantly much more stable oil pressure on the datalog (at higher rpm only). Peeking at the OP gauge during a pull wasn't nearly as noticeable as examining the log file closely after the pull. After seeing that, no way would I not run a windage tray. My setup was a stock oil pan with a scraper.

Originally Posted by Scott Stoneburg

Interested in what harm you say they will cause. I've never heard they have a negative impact on anything

[Scott Stoneburg]

Originally Posted by mback12000

Back to back dyno testing (no other changes) for me with a stock windage tray (except for 1/2" drainback holes added) showed nearly 10hp gain but more importantly much more stable oil pressure on the datalog (at higher rpm only). Peeking at the OP gauge during a pull wasn't nearly as noticeable as examining the log file closely after the pull. After seeing that, no way would I not run a windage tray. My setup was a stock oil pan with a scraper.

Thats good feedback. I didnt put one in my current motor. Went with just the crank scraper and simple baffles in the canton pan. I am going to use the scraper and a windage tray on my 535.

[mback12000]

I think different applications could be less sensitive. I have a stock block (lifter valley drain back), stock pan, and tested with thin 10w30 oil. Those (and other things) could be significant factors. I can tell you draining out a quart of oil also gave near similar results during testing, including more stable oil pressure at high rpm. Think about that. But I'm not comfortable reducing oil level in an accelerating car so for me the windage tray is necessary.

Originally Posted by Scott Stoneburg

Thats good feedback. I didnt put one in my current motor. Went with just the crank scraper and simple baffles in the canton pan. I am going to use the scraper and a windage tray on my 535.

[Steve C.]

"I can tell you draining out a quart of oil also gave near similar results during testing, including more stable oil pressure at high rpm. Think about that"

Related......

The easiest and least expensive way to minimize windage is to avoid over-filling a wet sump engine with oil. This may sound simple, but we’ve seen this happen many times. In a situation that recently occurred at Westech Performance, dyno operator Steve Brule’ witnessed a significant dip in oil pressure above 5,000 rpm on a 600 hp 468ci big-block Chevy. The owner had inadvertently over-filled the engine by two quarts of oil in the deep-sump pan –adding 9 quarts in an advertised 8-quart pan.

Steve first tested this oil pressure problem by adding a half quart (to be safe) and recorded an even greater pressure drop. He eventually drained 2 ½ quarts of oil from the engine and not only did the oil pressure stabilize, but the power improved by a solid 20 hp as well. This reveals just how much horsepower can be lost to oil whipping around the crankshaft at high engine speeds.

Source:
http://blog.wiseco.com/common-causes...il-consumption



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