[92GTA]

Man that would totally suck to wait I haven't been able to drive my car all summer because of doing my suspension and rear end and a vacation in-between. I'm the kind of car guy that will lose interest in a project if it's down to long, that's why I like to drive my projects. QP sure didn't mention needing a new driveshaft and I would be PISSED if that's the case. The 4L80E isn't in my budget to complete the install on until end of Nov or Dec

[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by 92GTA

Interesting, didn't know about solid joints that didn't utilize the needle bearing cups. Or by solid do you mean all the same size on all 4 corners?

Anyhow, when I have my new driveshaft made for my 4L80E as mentioned, I'll just go with what will match my rear end yoke.

Im not the expert here but Im pretty sure its just a solid center. As in they arent greaseable. The driveline guy made it sound like all conversion joints have hollow sections. But again, maybe that was only the joints he had on hand.

I get the not wanting to wait. Really I should have ordered the 1350 yoke for the rear end before I had my shaft shortened. But I was already in the shop and wasnt willing to wait a week for a part and then drive another 2 hours to the driveline shop again a week later.

He advised me that with my power levels I would only mildly have to sweat with the solid joint. Whereas with the conversion joint I would have to sweat buckets.

[92GTA]

Hmmm, well the factory one was hollow, it's has a zerk fitting right on it. But I could see how solid ones would be for sure stronger like in a drag racing application and what I would want.

[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by 92GTA

Man that would totally suck to wait I haven't been able to drive my car all summer because of doing my suspension and rear end and a vacation in-between. I'm the kind of car guy that will lose interest in a project if it's down to long, that's why I like to drive my projects. QP sure didn't mention needing a new driveshaft and I would be PISSED if that's the case. The 4L80E isn't in my budget to complete the install on until end of Nov or Dec

To play devil's advocate here, you're adding a part from not only a different car, but an entirely different manufacturer. To assume that everything is just going to fit in place is pretty presumptuous.

Just within the first gen F-body there are a multitude of driveshaft lengths depending on the axle used and the transmission optioned, across two different cars.

I'm hard pressed to fault QP for not knowing exactly if your driveshaft will fit or not. I went through this same deal with Moser and it's just something that can't be known. There's far too many variables involved.

Their lack of service to you is concerning, but in this specific case here, that just comes down to hot-rodding. If you absolutely wanted everything to be as it is stock, you had the option to build the 10 bolt that was in the car.

But you may get lucky. Measure the difference in depths before you toss the rear end in. If you're within an 1/8th inch or so either way, you're probably fine. The further you get away from that you start risking issues with an improper length driveshaft.

So at that point you can either spend the money twice to have something to drive right away, or wait a couple months and pay for the driveshaft once.

[92GTA]

I had no idea there were so many differences in the driveshaft within the same model.

Hopefully, I get lucky then!

[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by 92GTA

I had no idea there were so many differences in the driveshaft within the same model.

Hopefully, I get lucky then!

yeah, I bought one on this site that was supposed to fit a first gen with a TH400, turns out not so much. Drivehsaft shipping across the country is a bit spendy lol. Wasnt thrilled at that discovery.

I think its a 4 speed shaft. Ive been meaning to offer it for sale again.

[92GTA]

That I get because of tail shaft lengths. But the position of the pinion yoke should be constant I would think.

[JLMounce]

The problem is the case itself, or in the case of you 9”, the third member. The different types of axles have different depth center sections so by necessity the driveshaft length changes.

[92GTA]

I thrashed for 8 hours tonight and got the new leafs and rear in. Turns out the driveshaft is about 1.5" too short Also the driver's side leaf spring plate (using the stock one) hits the e-brake mechanism and the dowel pin holes on the rear were too small. For as the e-brake hitting, I have no choice but to call QP and see what they can do about it. Can't have my leaf binding up against it.

Looks like I won't be driving until the new tranny is in and I get the new driveshaft made.

[Formulajones]

Probably better off that way and you'll be happier on the long run.

Do you have a local driveline shop handy?

I use one up the street here that builds all the driveshafts for me that's been in business about 40 years and very knowledgeable. Does all the off road desert racing trucks throughout the South West here.

On the solid joint deal, that is usually recommended by the shop I use, even in street car applications that are driven but make some HP. Factory joints weren't serviceable either and they generally lasted 100k miles without problems on the cars I've owned. So that's the route I usually go these days. He just built me a driveshaft a couple months back good for 600 HP, seamless steel tube slightly larger in diameter than stock, 1330 solid joints, for under $300. So it's not a huge expense. He'll be building a bigger 1350 piece for my father next week. Slightly more in cost, but stronger.

Sounds like you have some rearend issues to deal with though first. Quick Performance has always been pretty good but as with anything, there is always a kink in the armor somewhere.

[HWYSTR455]

As an FYI, the 9" axle tubes are larger in diameter, so the shock plates will need to be modified, and you will need larger U bolts.

What's the depth of the leaf mounts on the housing? And are you running mono or multi-leaf springs?

If you can, post a pic of the calipers and caliper brackets, or maybe list the brand and part number of the brake kit.

.

[92GTA]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Probably better off that way and you'll be happier on the long run.

Do you have a local driveline shop handy?

I use one up the street here that builds all the driveshafts for me that's been in business about 40 years and very knowledgeable. Does all the off road desert racing trucks throughout the South West here.

On the solid joint deal, that is usually recommended by the shop I use, even in street car applications that are driven but make some HP. Factory joints weren't serviceable either and they generally lasted 100k miles without problems on the cars I've owned. So that's the route I usually go these days. He just built me a driveshaft a couple months back good for 600 HP, seamless steel tube slightly larger in diameter than stock, 1330 solid joints, for under $300. So it's not a huge expense. He'll be building a bigger 1350 piece for my father next week. Slightly more in cost, but stronger.

Sounds like you have some rearend issues to deal with though first. Quick Performance has always been pretty good but as with anything, there is always a kink in the armor somewhere.

I do have 1 place in my town that I've heard is pretty good that I planned on using.

[92GTA]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

As an FYI, the 9" axle tubes are larger in diameter, so the shock plates will need to be modified, and you will need larger U bolts.

What's the depth of the leaf mounts on the housing? And are you running mono or multi-leaf springs?

If you can, post a pic of the calipers and caliper brackets, or maybe list the brand and part number of the brake kit.

.

The u-bolts that came with my Hotchkis springs fit no problem. The stock plates only needed to be modified in terms of making the holes just a tiny bit larger.

The leaf mounts on the housings, no idea the depth. All I know is they are the reinforced ones for CalTracs. My Hotchkis are multi.

This is the kit that came with the rear end package:
https://www.quickperformance.com/For...it_p_7973.html

Now that I look at it the next day in the daylight with a clear mind, I think the e-brake hitting the leaf bracket is because the pinion yoke is down rotating the rear end forward because of no driveshaft and I haven't tightened the u-bolts yet. Hopefully, I'll be fine clearance wise once everything is in place with the proper pinion angle.

[Mr Anonymous]

Although I have no ordered the same exact thing you have, I've been a customer of Quick Perf for a long time, and always been pleased. Sorry to hear you're having difficulties, but you will be happy in the long run I suspect.

[HWYSTR455]

Just to toss it out here, when you have the new shaft made, just have them use a Ford end on the shaft on the rear side, and it will be easy to source 'regular' u-joints (not conversions).

.

[Formulajones]

A good driveline shop will match their end of the joint with the yoke you are using and make the shaft accordingly. That actually should be a question he asks you when you show up with your measurements.

It's actually cheaper to do so. Those darn "adapt-a-joints" as we call them, are expensive compared to the conventional joints.

[92GTA]

I got a hold of QP again today about the wrong brake Calliper. The second person I spoke was great this time and they got me the correct one hopefully, out FedEx today.

I did manage to get the driveshaft connected last night, once the car is one the ground it only pulls the yoke out maybe a half inch further than it was stock.

Thanks everyone for the help!

[JLMounce]

Before you drive the car anywhere I would suggest putting the car on jacks and allowing the suspension to fully drop. See how much your slip yoke is out and if possible get a measurement on how much spline engagement you have.

The last thing you want is to be driving down the road and drop the shaft which becomes a poll-vault.

[92GTA]

Good suggestion, thank you. I will do that.

[92GTA]

I took this pic, how does this look? This is with the rear suspension fully extended. I'd estimate there is still more than half of the yoke in the tail shaft.

Think I can get by until I do my trans swap?