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#1
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How to remove paint off stock intake manifold?
Will be detailing engine this fall....
I need to remove the current paint off the stock intake..... Strip it with solvent? or Media Blast it of some sort?
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Troy Rockaway NJ 67 GTO 400HO / TKX 3.27 1ST GEAR-.72OD / 3.36 POSI HOTCHKIS/UMI/BILSTEIN |
#2
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If you have the ability to media blast with plastic media, that would be my preferred option.
Outside of that I would use Aircraft Klean Strip. I’ve used that successfully on a lot of different materials.
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-Jason 1969 Pontiac Firebird |
#3
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Ditto. Media blast if possible.
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---------------------------- '72 Formula 400 Lucerne Blue, Blue Deluxe interior - My first car! '73 Firebird 350/4-speed Black on Black, mix & match. |
#4
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I don't bother with plastic media. Normally use 6-7 sieve glass bead on both cast iron and aluminum, but will switch to crushed glass on a really rusting cast iron manifold followed up by the normal glass bead.
Here's a '66 manifold that the owner worked on for a week with oven cleaner, a wire wheel, and anything else he could throw at it. He finally gave up and brought it to me and it cleaned up nicely with just the glass bead.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon in progress. |
#5
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__________________
Troy Rockaway NJ 67 GTO 400HO / TKX 3.27 1ST GEAR-.72OD / 3.36 POSI HOTCHKIS/UMI/BILSTEIN |
#6
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I've never used the aerosol form of it. I would probably just recommend this.
http://www.kleanstrip.com/product/ai...-paint-remover Slather that stuff all over the surface, let it set for an hour or so, then spray it off.
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-Jason 1969 Pontiac Firebird |
#7
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I'd go straight to the media blasting. I've regretted it every time I didn't do that.
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#8
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If it's cast iron, drop it off at a larger machine shop to be bake, steel shot and shaked. Will look like a fresh new casting from the mold and will retain paint very well. Any rust will be eliminated to clean bare casting.
Components are done in bulk so not as labor intensive as media on a single component. I'd expect $25-$35, or ability to agree on ~ that amount. Aluminum, media blast of choice. Likely slightly more expensive more individual man power and must be degreased completely first. Remember this is a small step in what they (machine shop) do to a lot of what comes thru their shop. Myself I wouldn't even consider stripper, messy, time consuming, residue makes for poor adhesion, more time prepping. HTH Luke |
#9
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Hmmm...... I actually like the idea of dropping it off at machine shop and letting them handle this...... my buddy has a trusted engine builder who I will reach out to....
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Troy Rockaway NJ 67 GTO 400HO / TKX 3.27 1ST GEAR-.72OD / 3.36 POSI HOTCHKIS/UMI/BILSTEIN |
#10
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I always used glass beads on either cast iron or aluminum manifolds.
Never tumbled a manifold, but someone once talked me into trying the tumbling/shaking with the steel points on some carburetor parts. This was done by a very well known and well respected carburetor company. Will not identify further, do not ask. For anything new, I would always send stuff for testing that was surplus. In this case, a very good thing. ALL of the zinc alloy and aluminum castings came back with every hole reduced in diameter, and every cast number, letter, etc. obliterated. Even the numbers/letters on the cast iron throttle bodies came back fuzzy. Maybe it would eliminate throttle body bushing. I sent a Q-Jet throttle body, and when it came back the throttle shaft could not be inserted into the body, as it was larger in diameter than the throttle body hole. After inspection, every casting that I sent was tossed in the recycle bins. Even the cast iron. Jon.
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"Good carburetion is fuelish hot air". "The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one given to you by your neighbor". If you truly believe that "one size fits all" try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes! Owner of The Carburetor Shop, LLC (of Missouri). Current caretaker of the remains of Stromberg Caburetor, and custodian of the existing Carter and Kingston carburetor drawings. |
#11
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For cast iron, I just sandblast 'em. Blow out and pressure wash it thoroughly inside and out afterwards.
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Steve F. |
#12
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Quote:
My understanding is the aircraft stripper ingredients have been outlawed by the DEP. It was mentioned on Yellowbullet it is getting difficult to find. |
#13
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Aluminum hot take or sand blast...
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#14
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http://bbandtracing.com/machine-shop...gine-cleaning/
This is the process I am referring to, The link is the first description I could easily find to describe the process. Carbking, I have only seen that tumble process used to clean valves, and that is only in stock production rebuilds. Occasionally some odds and ends, but never anything as delicate or soft as carb parts. That guy was way off base even considering doing that. Whatever process you choose, be sure to clean it out VERY well. HTH Luke Last edited by STEELCITYFIREBIRD; 09-18-2019 at 11:59 PM. |
#15
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If you just want to strip paint and not a lot of grease and oil drop of the manifold at a shop that strips furniture. For a small fee they will dunk it for you.
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#16
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