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  #1  
Old 09-17-2019, 10:51 PM
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67GTONUT 67GTONUT is offline
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Default How to remove paint off stock intake manifold?

Will be detailing engine this fall....

I need to remove the current paint off the stock intake.....

Strip it with solvent?
or
Media Blast it of some sort?

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  #2  
Old 09-17-2019, 10:58 PM
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If you have the ability to media blast with plastic media, that would be my preferred option.

Outside of that I would use Aircraft Klean Strip. I’ve used that successfully on a lot of different materials.

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Old 09-18-2019, 02:42 AM
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Ditto. Media blast if possible.

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Old 09-18-2019, 03:10 AM
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I don't bother with plastic media. Normally use 6-7 sieve glass bead on both cast iron and aluminum, but will switch to crushed glass on a really rusting cast iron manifold followed up by the normal glass bead.

Here's a '66 manifold that the owner worked on for a week with oven cleaner, a wire wheel, and anything else he could throw at it. He finally gave up and brought it to me and it cleaned up nicely with just the glass bead.
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Old 09-18-2019, 01:16 PM
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Is this the recommended stripper?

http://www.kleanstrip.com/product/ai...emover-aerosol

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  #6  
Old 09-18-2019, 01:34 PM
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I've never used the aerosol form of it. I would probably just recommend this.

http://www.kleanstrip.com/product/ai...-paint-remover

Slather that stuff all over the surface, let it set for an hour or so, then spray it off.

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Old 09-18-2019, 01:35 PM
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I'd go straight to the media blasting. I've regretted it every time I didn't do that.

  #8  
Old 09-18-2019, 01:38 PM
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If it's cast iron, drop it off at a larger machine shop to be bake, steel shot and shaked. Will look like a fresh new casting from the mold and will retain paint very well. Any rust will be eliminated to clean bare casting.
Components are done in bulk so not as labor intensive as media on a single component.
I'd expect $25-$35, or ability to agree on ~ that amount.
Aluminum, media blast of choice. Likely slightly more expensive more individual man power and must be degreased completely first.
Remember this is a small step in what they (machine shop) do to a lot of what comes thru their shop.
Myself I wouldn't even consider stripper, messy, time consuming, residue makes for poor adhesion, more time prepping.

HTH
Luke

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Old 09-18-2019, 01:51 PM
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Hmmm...... I actually like the idea of dropping it off at machine shop and letting them handle this...... my buddy has a trusted engine builder who I will reach out to....

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  #10  
Old 09-18-2019, 06:05 PM
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I always used glass beads on either cast iron or aluminum manifolds.

Never tumbled a manifold, but someone once talked me into trying the tumbling/shaking with the steel points on some carburetor parts. This was done by a very well known and well respected carburetor company. Will not identify further, do not ask. For anything new, I would always send stuff for testing that was surplus. In this case, a very good thing. ALL of the zinc alloy and aluminum castings came back with every hole reduced in diameter, and every cast number, letter, etc. obliterated. Even the numbers/letters on the cast iron throttle bodies came back fuzzy.

Maybe it would eliminate throttle body bushing. I sent a Q-Jet throttle body, and when it came back the throttle shaft could not be inserted into the body, as it was larger in diameter than the throttle body hole.

After inspection, every casting that I sent was tossed in the recycle bins. Even the cast iron.

Jon.

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Old 09-18-2019, 07:15 PM
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For cast iron, I just sandblast 'em. Blow out and pressure wash it thoroughly inside and out afterwards.

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  #12  
Old 09-18-2019, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLMounce View Post
I've never used the aerosol form of it. I would probably just recommend this.

http://www.kleanstrip.com/product/ai...-paint-remover

Slather that stuff all over the surface, let it set for an hour or so, then spray it off.

My understanding is the aircraft stripper ingredients have been outlawed by the DEP. It was mentioned on Yellowbullet it is getting difficult to find.

  #13  
Old 09-18-2019, 09:51 PM
Scott Roberts Scott Roberts is offline
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Aluminum hot take or sand blast...

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Old 09-18-2019, 11:34 PM
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http://bbandtracing.com/machine-shop...gine-cleaning/

This is the process I am referring to, The link is the first description I could easily find to describe the process.

Carbking, I have only seen that tumble process used to clean valves, and that is only in stock production rebuilds. Occasionally some odds and ends, but never anything as delicate or soft as carb parts. That guy was way off base even considering doing that.

Whatever process you choose, be sure to clean it out VERY well.
HTH
Luke


Last edited by STEELCITYFIREBIRD; 09-18-2019 at 11:59 PM.
  #15  
Old 09-21-2019, 11:33 PM
Goatracer1 Goatracer1 is offline
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If you just want to strip paint and not a lot of grease and oil drop of the manifold at a shop that strips furniture. For a small fee they will dunk it for you.

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Old 09-22-2019, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD View Post
If it's cast iron, drop it off at a larger machine shop to be bake, steel shot and shaked. Will look like a fresh new casting from the mold and will retain paint very well. Any rust will be eliminated to clean bare casting.
Components are done in bulk so not as labor intensive as media on a single component.
I'd expect $25-$35, or ability to agree on ~ that amount.
Aluminum, media blast of choice. Likely slightly more expensive more individual man power and must be degreased completely first. ......HTH Luke
THIS is best. The bake is really to cook the organics to ash. The steel shot is specially selected in size and alloy to retain the original surface finish. Im not aware of a "shaked portion in the process, i though it was some sort of rotisserie to get all angles.

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