[marks73ta]

Also just got the call to come get my '63 from the chassis guy. Will add pics as soon as I get them. Mark l

[marks73ta]

Here be the new '63 Gasser. New frame and axle.






Mark L

[steveinmontana]

Love it so far Mark,....Keep the pics and thoughts coming.
Steve

[marks73ta]

Thanks Steve, it's been easy so far. Just accumulating parts and letting the chassis guy do the front end. Damn, now I actually have to do some work, Hot Rodding is so much work, heh. mark L

[6 Grrrs]

Is it me or is the axle centerline too far forward?

[marks73ta]

6Grrrs, yes the axle line is forward one inch. The front fender is just laying on the car and not fully in position. That is helping to give the look that it is too far forward. When you do a beam or straight front axle you normally add an inch to the front axle line. The higher the front end the more the original front axle centerline starts looking like it is too far back, so you compensate by placing the axle one inch forward. Also the tire in there is just a junk 5 on 5 tire/rim to haul it around on. Once I get the disc conversion on it will be a 4 3/4 bolt pattern and I will be using a little smaller tire on the front. It will be even less obvious. Good eye. Mark L

[mechanickeith]

You would get a lot more done if you were out in the garage instead of on here!!

[AROWHED]

Fantastic project, Mark!...glad to see a Darksider going this route! I would have let you experiment on my 65 if you had asked!

[Bill Eveland]

Are you going to have the springs rearched to get more height or leaving it alone? Just don't put lift blocks in between the axle and spring in it like the Chevy you posted.

Most guys add in a 55 chevy car arm on the passenger side on the top for the cross steering. It depends on what gear box your going to use. Looks like i'm going the same route. I have a Ford F1 straight axle, i'm going to get a arm from Speedway to add to the right side to convert it over to cross steer than reuse the original gearbox. Just make sure the draglink is as parallel as possible to avoid bumpsteer.

[BruceWilkie]

Though we mostly work with Pinto/Mustang 2, my partner has fit rack and pinion to straight axles. They were single cross buggy sprung though. You will need a few universals and a heim joint to support the steering shaft. You can keep steering wheel vibration down with a rag joint either right off the rack or before the first universal before any heim joint.

With your leaf spring arrangement I would think you may need some kind of slip yoke on the shaft to allow for POSSIBLE travel in the fore/aft direction.(the shakles will change exact wheel well center as the suspension moves btw) IMO double the amount of expected travel. Mopars from the 60's thru 70's have a slip yoke on the end of the steering column that could be fit to allow some travel. Well greased square tube on one end and with square bar stock fit inside(round the edges slightly) on the other end might be easier and cleaner .

THAT SAID you may be able to get by with just 2 u-joints and a heim joint !

Mark that fenderless 48 Austin I showed you some pics of, needed three heim joints for header clearance to get to the mustang 2 rack.(easier than rotating the rack) 1 center shaft had to run slightly up from the bottom of the steering column to eventualy get up above the rack then another short shaft down. The steering on that worked quite smooth though.(Felt like power steering even with car stationary.) The headers and frame hid the "ugly" well. We had a tilt column on it too!

[marks73ta]

Hey Keith, I'm retired remember? I can do it at my Leischer---er-- I mean leisure. Hows your car doing after your altercation? Are you getting it back in shape?
Mike, bring it down. We know how to do it now, heh.
Bill. I'm playing with the idea of using a front steer rack and pinion attached right to the axle so it has no bump steer or other bad manners. It will require a slip shaft from the column to the rack at some point. Been seeing it more and more. And not sure on the springs until I get it all on the ground and the full weight to see where it sits. I think it may come out perfect for what I want, it's just a crap shoot on what how the springs will ride, too stiff or too soft???
I got most of the disc brake conversion on today. Just have to finish it up tomorrow. I did a liitle rust preventative on the original areas of the frame and a little paint on some of the new areas. Will finish that tomorrow as well. 101 in garage today but with the doors open and just a little breeze it was not too bad. I just take my time since i have plenty. Never had that luxury before.




Mark L

[marks73ta]

Bruce I completely agree. Your reply came as I was writing my reply. I've also been seeing slip shafts for Hot Rods and a truck magazine had an ad for some one making them. Once I get the firewall cut built and finished I can figure out what I'm going to do for a column then I'll figure out the shafting. I also thought of using a shaft to a floating universal mounted on a small swing arm that would allow the assembly to swing forward and back with the suspension needs. But keep it stationary from sideways movements. Mark L

[BruceWilkie]

Mark 48" barn fans work great. I had an old monster sized drum fan from an old oil furnace and some creative ducting, all hung from the rafters in my old barn in NY. I wish I had brought it with me. Alot of guys here super insulate their garages and find a used heating ac system from old homes that were being remodeled or replaced for fire or tornado damage or just upgrading their older less efficient air pump systems. Fairly efficient and low utility cost because they only use it on an as needed basis.

[BruceWilkie]

Originally Posted by marks73ta

I also thought of using a shaft to a floating universal mounted on a small swing arm that would allow the assembly to swing forward and back with the suspension needs. But keep it stationary from sideways movements. Mark L

Thats what we use the u-joints and heim ends for. Heim end mounted stationary to frame (slipped) over steering shaft supports lower part of steering column and upper u-joint so it doesnt wobble. An adapted Mopar steering joint may give you all the slip you might need. You can temporarily use a sectioned piece of tubing as a slip shaft over your steering shafts to see how much if any slip you might need. Your going to have to fully load and unload your suspension to its travel limits to check it.

[aronhk_md]

Mark.....buy a misting fan or take one and hang a misting kit on it. Lowers the temp incredibly.

[marks73ta]

I would love a misting fan in the garage but the nice ting about AZ is it is dry. i don't want to introduce moisture into the garage. You can sit a sanded down to bare metal car in the yard all summer and it never rusts. No rain. There's a guy on the other side of our subdivision with a fully bare fender on a Subaru. Kept seeing him all last summer using the car everyday. The fender never even flashed over. I have a big evaporative cooling unit that sits on casters to use in the garage but it really wasn't that bad today. It really does matter if it is dry. Makes a big difference.
BUTTTTT. It hasn't hit 116 yet either like last year. Me think that could be a problem, heh. Mark L

[misterp266]

Lookin' good Mark. Have you considered setting the engine back under the cowl a bit? Are you doing a smooth firewall? Up here in MA everything rusts before you can even prime it! I'll take the dry heat any day.

Rob......

[marks73ta]

Hey Rob, yeah. I want to take the dash completely out then determine the set back. With the dash out it's just much easier to work in there, depending on the new housing for the set back I'll figure out if i'm using the original dash or build my own. Then the rest of the firrewall will get smoothed/covered. There's a guy selling colored aluminium sheets down here. I'll use a sheet of that to cover the firewall. The brake system will all be inside the cabin area, not out on the firewall. Mark L

[marks73ta]

Got the disc conversion all done except running the lines, that has to wait until I figure out where the master will end up. I painted the whole front frame too so it looks nicer.




Next up is taking out the dash and then cutting the firewall.

Mark L

[grandville455]

Its starting to come together nicely for you!.. Keep up the good work and keep the pics coming