#21  
Old 01-28-2019, 12:12 AM
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dataway dataway is offline
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Looking good ... nice shop too

  #22  
Old 01-29-2019, 11:59 AM
JUDGE3 JUDGE3 is offline
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never get tired of watching this. If I had the bucks my car would be capable of this to. yeha!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNfK3TRs1N0

  #23  
Old 02-03-2019, 04:44 PM
JUDGE3 JUDGE3 is offline
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Default ode' to a clone restoration

fabbed up trunk floor panel(s) above the area I needed to cut to replace the rear frame rail piece. had to fab 2 separate panels and weld together due to the shape and bends. got it completed. then welded the bumper bracket on.

the frame rail is just up there as I adjust for fit and proper location, have not welded it up yet. initial fit looks very good! happy about that i'll take all the ease of install I can get when dealing with repop parts.


sprayed the area with rustproofing copper rich weld thru primer. the rear rail has several open tooling holes i'll be able to spray undercoating thru when completed. I used 16 gauge thick steel sheet for the fabbed floor panels, a bit thicker than OE to make that area stronger.


the nasty rust side is the trunk drop off and quarterpanel. leaving them attached so I could be sure and get the size and bend flange in the right place for he new drop off panel. I don't remove any metal until i'm actually ready for that specific area. always saving reference points.


Last edited by JUDGE3; 12-20-2023 at 11:02 AM.
  #24  
Old 02-03-2019, 04:57 PM
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gradually covering the shop ceiling with stuff. preferably Pontiac stuff!

fixin to spray the moser rear with black epoxy primer as I plan to install it as soon as I get the rear frame rail repairs completed. get it back on 4 feet for the first time in a year.

the tail and outer wheel houses, quarter skin will be next so don't need the rear up so high and might turn my attention to a few mechanical items and tak a break from the metal work just for a bit.

really seeing the light at the end of the tunnel now though even though I have likely 2 years to go. that's because from late may to end of august I tend not to work on it as much with summer activities and such.


Last edited by JUDGE3; 12-20-2023 at 11:02 AM.
  #25  
Old 02-08-2019, 06:27 PM
JUDGE3 JUDGE3 is offline
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Default A friday off work for beloved shop time

completed the drivers side rear frame rail replacement today. it fit great, but needed cut a few places as required. I spliced mine over the existing good portion of the frame rail by around 3 inches. by cutting each side of the new piece along the edge equal distance it allow the repair piece to flush right up. weld it all closed and its done. In keeping with my overkill ways I doubled factory spot/plug welds and then welded it solid at the entire edges. super strong. maybe better since i'm using subframe connectors anyway.


Last edited by JUDGE3; 12-20-2023 at 11:02 AM.
  #26  
Old 02-08-2019, 06:38 PM
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on to the passenger side now! will be soooooooo glad when the on my back work is done. at my age the hassle is the distance to car is just to far for my magnifying piece in my welding helmet but to far to see good laying my head flat so constantly trying to prop myself up.


can't wait to do the trunk drop offs/outer wheel house/quarter skins. be in a good working position for a change!


Last edited by JUDGE3; 12-20-2023 at 11:02 AM.
  #27  
Old 02-10-2019, 06:57 PM
JUDGE3 JUDGE3 is offline
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Default Eureka moment weekend! freaking happy!

forgive me for all the whining iv'e been doing about being on my back doing all this.....but it sucks!

eureka moment weekend for me so happy! all 4 forward and aft frame rails done. fabbed up the passenger side trunk floor today I do need to weld up the frame rail but that's a piece of cake now. the frame rails between fwd and aft are excellent. water just drains to these areas.


hope someone gets some assist seeing this its same for 70-81. heres a spot for firebird owners to check if you don't know it, looking in the rear wheel well, looking forward where the seat belt bolt is, be sure the skin lap where the torque box and floorboard meet is seam sealed very well! I couldn't figure out how the floorboard hump above torque box got rusted. well thru time the seam seal fails and the tire throws water right up on that spot and seeps right between the box and floorboard.


now I can go several different directions working on the car and the bottom is 100% done! this part was the unseen unsung heroic work to me lol.

think i'm gonna hang the 4 chunks of rusted hades from a tree!


Last edited by JUDGE3; 12-20-2023 at 11:02 AM.
  #28  
Old 02-11-2019, 10:56 AM
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HWYSTR455 HWYSTR455 is offline
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Eastwood internal frame coating is your friend.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-in...z-aerosol.html

Not sure if spraying undercoating in the frame rails is a good idea, you won't get good coverage, and it might hold water.

Very nice work!

.

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  #29  
Old 02-11-2019, 11:25 AM
JUDGE3 JUDGE3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HWYSTR455 View Post
Eastwood internal frame coating is your friend.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-in...z-aerosol.html

Not sure if spraying undercoating in the frame rails is a good idea, you won't get good coverage, and it might hold water.

Very nice work!

.
I agree totally. funny timing I just ordered a couple eastwood internal spray coating.

guarantee no ones more a rust proof freak than me, actually I sprayed the copper weld thru, then por-15 everywhere possible, then seam sealer, then undercoating everywhere possible. next I'm doing the internal spray hose coating thing to be sure I got it all.

with all that the kicker is as with most others, the car will never see rain/snow/mud/salt ever again.

outta last a long time. thank you for the nice work compliment I appreciate that!

proly hang the rust chunks from a cottonwood tree so when I mow the lawn I can look up and recall the victory for years to come and watch em rust more. lol (I live out in the country)

  #30  
Old 02-11-2019, 11:53 AM
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Ha! Nice! And yeah, I'm a POR-15 'freak' too!

On the undercoating, I've been using the aerosol bed liners, 'Bed Armor' is the one I use specifically. I use black, but it comes in different colors:

https://duplicolor.com/product/bed-a...oating-aerosol

Goes on smooth if you hold the can a little further away, and more 'rough' when you hold the can closer. Dries fast too.

The regular undercoating washes off with engine degreaser and other solvents, even gas. So I stopped using it.

.

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  #31  
Old 02-11-2019, 11:57 AM
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I've used Eastwood's heavy duty anti rust too, it's black, thin, runs into panel seams, and is 'self-healing'.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-he...-in-black.html

The internal frame stuff is green, and you have to be careful when using it, if it shoots out a small hole, it can go everywhere.

You can see some of it on my build thread, but I just spray bed liner over it and it's done. On stuff you don't want to use the bed liner on, wipe off the frame coating or anti rust before it dries.


.

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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
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  #32  
Old 02-11-2019, 12:18 PM
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Looks great!

I'm very interested in the tail panel replacement, as I'll be doing the same in a month or so. I also need to replace the inner panel behind the tail, where the rails connect.

Keep up the good work!

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  #33  
Old 02-12-2019, 09:26 PM
JUDGE3 JUDGE3 is offline
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here's the spot I was talking about. not in the wheel well meant just forward. you can see where the torque box meets the floorpanel, my car appeared to not have ever had the seam sealed. water gets right between there, bad news. I sealed it up overkill now.

ugly pic I hadn't removed the original undercoating yet at this time. I was thankfull for it though, it saved this car. the needle scaler made easy quick work removing it.


be a bit before I get to the tail panel. decided I want to get the rear back under it, swaybar and such. do some mechanical and take a metal break.

I will be just splicing in both inner and outer tail panels. neither need full replacement.


Last edited by JUDGE3; 12-20-2023 at 11:02 AM.
  #34  
Old 02-24-2019, 05:05 PM
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darn flu plague ran rampant here took me outta commission last weekend. finished the passenger frame rail and decided to take it easy and worked over the trunk floor some. it is solid just needed a good scuffing. por 15 on everything. looks like a bunch of dirt in the por 15 with it being gloss version but its just the rough texture trunk spatter. when I put new spatter down it'll be nice. por 15 on the new frame rail repairs also. then i'll seam seal the welds, por 15 again, and "fog" the rails inside from front to back with the eastwood stuff.


Last edited by JUDGE3; 12-20-2023 at 11:02 AM.
  #35  
Old 02-24-2019, 05:25 PM
JUDGE3 JUDGE3 is offline
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Default same ol' ralley 2's

so awhile back I restored my ralley 2's. burnt out on em' so tried to spruce em up into something a bit different. still just not into em and will probably go with cragars. love the new cast honeycombs but not the size. maybe i'll get over that I dunno. I ordered the 'bird center pieces that are for other center caps and ground the slots in em' to fit the R2 caps. just trying to make them look different than all the routine R2's. might paint the lug nut centers black and see if I like that. or the center slot lips in black instead of red might work also. ugh! searching for a wheel. my car will be white so thought the red might give it an all American red-white-blue touch.


Last edited by JUDGE3; 12-20-2023 at 11:01 AM.
  #36  
Old 02-27-2019, 03:09 PM
mrrat1 mrrat1 is offline
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Looking real nice. Been going thru the same metal repairs. First time welder but I have a lift. Only had a very small section of the rear pass frame rail to fix. I'm on the door rust now. Por-15 is everywhere on my project as well.

  #37  
Old 03-03-2019, 04:54 PM
JUDGE3 JUDGE3 is offline
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Default Inner Tail Panel Complete

Decided to complete just the inner tail panel before installing the differential due to not wanting to possibly have to work around the rear portion of the leaf springs.

the original inner panel is solid less the bottom 2" and where the rusted frame rails ate out the attaching area.

the inner panel sandwiches between the trunk floor and outer tail panel so I was glad I didn't need full replacement. lot more work to do that as the trunk/fuel tank braces attach to it as well. my braces were solid also.

so I used the complete new repop tail panel and cut to what I needed. once I was happy with the butt weld fit, I cut it in the middle to 2 pieces to make it easier to weld up. to flimsy as one piece to handle alone.


Last edited by JUDGE3; 12-20-2023 at 11:01 AM.
  #38  
Old 03-03-2019, 05:11 PM
JUDGE3 JUDGE3 is offline
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Default Inner tail panel fitment

here's where I cut it on the car. hard to get full width pics from laying under the car.

my car has the brown factory primer that makes it look like I left rust behind in spots. ugly stuff. I didn't know about the factory primers and when I first brought the car home and saw areas faded thru I assumed it must have been a brown painted car!


iv'e found that with round sanding discs, then the mini belt sander, then a wire wheel brush, then a needle scaler, you can really clean it up nice in prep for welding and por15. it takes all those to reach the tite curves etc. in fact, the needle scaler leaves a nice mild rough surface behind perfect for adhesion of por15.


Last edited by JUDGE3; 12-20-2023 at 11:01 AM.
  #39  
Old 03-03-2019, 05:30 PM
JUDGE3 JUDGE3 is offline
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Default inner tail panel weld up

all welded up. was very pleased with the fit, layed right against the new rear frame rails. lined it up with the center formed "cup", and fit perfect to my fabbed trunk floor above the rear frame rails. a good repop piece! can't say that all that often.

if ever a place I could have just left the welds as is this would be it beings its cocooned once the outer tail panel is on, but I just don't like leaving my welds undressed. so I do it no matter the area.


Last edited by JUDGE3; 12-20-2023 at 11:01 AM.
  #40  
Old 03-03-2019, 05:39 PM
JUDGE3 JUDGE3 is offline
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Default inner tail panel done

last but not least, the por15 action.

then seam sealer, then por15, then undercoat!

the outer tail panel will be easier, partial replacement there also. moving to the differential install now and the corresponding sway bar/shocks etc.

after that I'll go back and finish the metal work with the trunk drop offs, outer wheel wells, and quarter panels. looking forward to that!

all the underbody of the car is structurally sound now i'm digging that.


Last edited by JUDGE3; 12-20-2023 at 11:01 AM.
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