[General Z]

I'm sorry, but I just don't understand. I am trying as hard as I can.

I think, according to the diagram, that the pink "ig" wire is the one that ultimately goes to the distributor, and the switch muct make the contacts inside for the battery wire to contact the "ig" wire?

[george kujanski]

General, or should i call you Sir?

I looked at the diagram and here's what i see: The pink wire from the ignition switch is the proper signal to the coil (+).

In the original wiring for the '67, the wire under the dash is pink. Once it goes thru the bulkhead connector, it becomes a pink with orange/purple stripe or something like that, which is the original resistance wire. This wire eventually splices with a yellow wire from the starter solenoid "I" or "R" terminal and then continues as a yellow wire to the coil.

In your case with a HEI, all you need to do is bypass or replace the resistance wire from the bulkhead connector (if not already done) to the HEI BAT terminal. Remove the yellow wire from the starter solenoid if it's still there, or if it comes from the additional fender-mounted relay.

The igntiion switch shows the pink wire getting power in crank and run modes so you don't need the previous yellow wire with the HEI.

So to summarize, the pink wire goes from the ign switch thru the bulkhead connector, and connects to another plain (non-resistance wire) to the HEI BAT terminal. That's it.

George

[General Z]

Thanks George.

I will do that tonight. It will allow me to get rid of more crap wiring and a switch.

The name General comes from my 99 Camaro Z28. I was always a big Dukes of Hazzard fan, and when I was buying a Hugger Orange Z28, it was dubbed General Z, instead of General Lee.

Thanks, again. I'm sure by the time I am done tonight, I will have more info and new questions.

[Old Goat 67]

George, you should get some sort of campaign ribbon for this!

[General Z]

Hey, if you guys have pay pal accounts, I'll gladly pay you for all this help.

Alright, I fixed the ignition and got rid of the wire going to the alternator.

I also unplugged the console harness, removing it from the equation.

I jumped 12 volts to the driver side wire(yellow)on the wire run side of the u shaped harness, with the harness unplugged. The result: driver light on bright and solid, passenger light on dim and solid.

I jumped 12 volts to the passenger side wire(green) on the wire run side of the u shaped harness, with the harness unplugged. The result: passenger light only, bright and solid.

I also tested with the u shaped plug connected. I jumped 12 V to each wire separately, but got the same result. Both rear lights turned on bright and solid.

So, this leaves me with the knowledge that the problem is not in the turn signal switch? This is because it was out of the equation and I still had one bright, one dim, when I should have only had one dim?

Now, the next thing is, I have already cut the yellow and green wire at the u shaped harness, to run a new bypass wire to the back, where I also cut the green and yellow wires, and wired up the new bypass wires. This was done yesterday.

So, that removes the wire run from the u shaped harness to the corresponding wires at the rear.

What are my next steps? New sockets and bulbs, wired into the bypass wires, in effect just rewiring the whole circuit?

That still leaves me with the problem of the console lights that come on when the brake pedal is pushed, or the left turn signal is turned on. I think if I cut the existing console light wire, and then run a new wire to the dash lights wiring, effectively taking the courtesy light circuit out of the equation too, since I don't know if the console lights are on that circuit or not.

Last observation I just made is the following: I checked the voltage to the console gauge lights with the left turn signal turned on. They were getting spikes of about 14V or so, on my multi-meter. So, just to see, I turned the dimmer switch on the headlight knob all the way to the right, and the voltage went to zero. I was able to duplicate this several times. This is wirhout the headlights even being turned on, only the left turn signal.

What's next?

Thank you so much again guys.

[General Z]

Well guys,

I'm feeling pretty stupid and like I wasted a BUNCH of your time.

I don't care about the time of mine that I wasted, as it allowed me to learn this car better and to eliminate a bunch or old crap wiring that I didn't need.

Would you believe in the end, after all of this, that the problem was.......

Drumroll please.......

A single filament bulb in one of the driver's side sockets that requires a dual filament bulb.

I feel like such a fool.

A 10 second job has taken me oh, maybe 20 hours to find out.

LPete even advised to take out the bulbs one at a time. I interpreted that as to take out the sockets one at a time.

Damn.

Well, thanks for all the help guys. I would have been forever stumped without you.

It even cured the console lights from blinking.

Looks like all my problems are solved.

Now, onto the new alternator and the elimination of the voltage regulator, and the installation of the new IMI starter.

[LPete]

No need to pay anything. We're all glad to help.

I think you have a bad ground at one of the LR bulbs, or a problem with the socket or a bad bulb. I think you're getting power feeding through one or more of the T/S filaments into the taillight circuit. This happens when dual-filament bulbs aren't grounded properly.

With power applied to the LR T/S circuit, take a piece of wire and ground the bulbs one at a time (by touching the metal shell on the bulb). Make SURE the wire is grounded. If the right taillights go out, you've found the problem. Do this, then we'll go from there.

The other thing you can try is measure the voltage from the shell on each bulb to a good ground (with the T/S circuit powered). If the voltage is higher than about .1 V you've found the bulb that isn't grounded properly. This is the proper way to test grounds with a voltmeter.

[LPete]

Originally Posted by General Z

Well guys,

I'm feeling pretty stupid and like I wasted a BUNCH of your time.

I don't care about the time of mine that I wasted, as it allowed me to learn this car better and to eliminate a bunch or old crap wiring that I didn't need.

Good job -- glad you got it!

One suggestion:
When you're trying to solve a problem like this that doesn't seem to make any sense, slow down and think before you start changing things (like cutting wires). It helps to have a good understanding of how the circuit is supposed to work before you start testing. The first thing I EVER do on an electrical problem is look at a diagram and make sure I understand the system. If you don't, any tests you do are meaningless. You need a plan before you start testing.

Good luck with your car!