["QUICK-SILVER"]

I don't know of any test, that can be performed with an ohm meter, to check for good or bad. Usually they ethier work or they don't.
On a few rare occasions I've seen GM modules cause high RPM misfire. With them I'ld say something else caused or led to the premature failure.

Watching the tachometer is a good way to look for an ignition misfire, if it's originating at the coil or coil trigger. The needle on the tach will jump around too fast, faster than engine RPM is actually changing, if it even is.

With fuel or mechanial causes of high RPM misfire, tach needle movement should stay normal or at least move slower instead of jumping around.

It would be nice to find out what Daves HEI is using to do his point conversions. Using GM modules with unknown trigger device. Parts are suppose to be common stock at part stores. Would just like to know what it is.

His distributors may be something you'ld want to look into, if you're wanting to keep the point type distributor look. Next would be just a good old HEI.

http://www.davessmallbodyheis.com/

Let me know what you find out

[jlwdvm]

The tach needle (hood tach) doesn't jump, but I get out of the throttle as soon as the misfire starts. When we were talking about the lower rmp chugging (around 2000rpm while slowly accellerating) I think the car is a little too jerky as the rpm slowly climbs to be caused by the cam's power characteristics. Could the coil be part of the problem (Summit's chrome stock replacement)? How could I test it?

[jlwdvm]

Screw it. I talked to Sun Tuned about getting a good curve kit and decided to just send the distributor to him for a work over and will have him change it back to points. He thought that the amount that I drive it and the rpm range I stay under points should be fine. I'll keep you posted.