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#21
11-17-2009, 02:58 PM
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starter too hot
my 69 brd would'nt start well when it got hot, turns out the windings were toasted from the exhaust heat. replaced the starter and wrapped it, problem solved .dave
Last edited by daves57; 01-01-2010 at 06:19 PM. |
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#22
11-17-2009, 05:20 PM
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TGFG I sure hope George is right, but I still think something is toasted in the starter. If not before he pulled it then after he pulled it and tested it. Hopefully I misunderstood how he connected it for testing. The way I read it he cold have easily damaged the solenoid windings by the way it was connected.
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#23
12-02-2009, 08:37 PM
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How about heat sink... Had the same problem.. put some shielding on it & solved the problem
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#24
01-06-2010, 09:59 PM
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sometimes if your running hot the starter will not turn or turn slowly....
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#25
01-21-2010, 11:57 AM
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I had the same problem. So I got a rebuilt one from the parts store. Same thing, I was told it was heat soak. I put a heat shield on the selinoid and wrapped the exhaust. It still did it a little but not as bad. But then the selinoid started to make a clicking sound, and the started was still suffering from the soak. I got a Powermaster for Christmas and installed it. No go, i was told by the "tech line"I probably have a larger flywheel then the unit was made for. I brought that back. Now I have orderedd the one from PY (GME131) the tech said it is built better then original with high torque and heat resistant and should fit like an original starter.
Whish me luck!
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Mike 1970 LeMans Sport Convertible www.fquick.com/mikecio1 http://www.facebook.com/MikeCio1 |
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#26
01-21-2010, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
No pun intended, I'm sure....  Seriously, though - I am subscribing to see how this all turns out and to hopefully learn something in the process. K
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'63 LeMans Convertible '63 Grand Prix '65 GTO - original, unrestored, Dad was original owner, 5000 original mile Royal Pontiac factory racer '74 Chevelle - original owner, 9.85 @ 136 mph besthttp://www.superchevy.com/features/s...hevy-chevelle/ My Pontiac Story: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=560524 "Intro from an old Assembly Plant Guy":http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342926 |
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#27
01-24-2010, 09:07 PM
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May be experiencing the same problem in my T/A. I have the Summit mini starter and after the car has been run at the track for 5 or 6 rounds and then driven home, about 20 minutes, it will not restart after I pull in the garage and shut it off, just 'clicks'. Have to wait a bit and then it will turn over again. So this last time I decided to check the battery, thinking it might be the problem, and found it at 15.45 volts; never seen that before. Is this a related issue or do I have two separate problems?
__________________
69 Bird w/1970 400 block(409 cubes), #64 heads, hyd. roller, Q-jet by Jeff E., original interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, street driven muscle. 3800 lbs. race weight. Best, 11.39 @118, my son's car. 79 T/A w/463, Scat crank, Eagle rods, Icon pistons, Lunati solid roller, 262/270, KRE 325 heads, Northwind intake, QF950 carb, full interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, 3650 lbs. race weight. 10.68 @ 126 so far... no tuning yet. |
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#28
01-25-2010, 01:01 AM
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a lot of 'initial timing' can also cause the starter to crank slowly when the engine is at temp.
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#29
01-25-2010, 01:51 AM
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I think George is probably right as I had the same problem after re-locating my battery to the trunk of my 73 455 T/A and trying to ground it through the body. I ran a piece of welding cable from the negative side and fastened it to a transmission to block bolt and it solved the problem. For a temporary test you might try running a set of jumper cables from the negative side of the battery to the engine and see if the symptom goes away. I would use both cables to test it, easy way to check the theory without investing any money.
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Brad Yost 1973 T/A (SOLD) 2005 GTO 1984 Grand Prix 100% Pontiacs in my driveway!!! What's in your driveway? If you don't take some of the RACETRACK home with you, Ya got cheated    
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#30
01-25-2010, 04:44 AM
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Quote:
Do a voltage test, engine running, at the alternator output post and terminal 2 voltage sensing. That'll help on diagnosing what's going on with the overcharge. I'll go out on a limb and say it's possible the two are related. If the power source to the switch for solenoid is shared by voltage sensing, too much resistance from source would mean low voltage to the solenoid for cranking and the same low voltage could cause overcharging. That's just guessing till you do some tests, plus would need to know how things are wired up. Need more input
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All the federales say,they could've had him any day They only let him slip away, out of kindness...I suppose Poncho & Lefty |
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#31
01-25-2010, 09:54 PM
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QS, the starter is about 3 years old, but car has not been driven very much, maybe 1000 miles. The problem first started about 18 months ago which corresponds to increase use particularly at the track. I have a 12si alt. which is internally regulated and I will do the tests you suggest and post the results. Thanks.
__________________
69 Bird w/1970 400 block(409 cubes), #64 heads, hyd. roller, Q-jet by Jeff E., original interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, street driven muscle. 3800 lbs. race weight. Best, 11.39 @118, my son's car. 79 T/A w/463, Scat crank, Eagle rods, Icon pistons, Lunati solid roller, 262/270, KRE 325 heads, Northwind intake, QF950 carb, full interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, 3650 lbs. race weight. 10.68 @ 126 so far... no tuning yet. |
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#32
01-26-2010, 08:15 PM
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I used to have that problem with my first car I ever owned, going way back now , it was a 69 olds cutlass supreme. Had a 350 rocket engine in it and it would run, it did the same thing yours is doing, when you turned it off it wouldn't start back up . Made the sound of a starter dragging, kept bumping the starter and eventually it would crank up. Sounds like you need to get a high torque starter , and you might still have that problem, the older engines were a lot better than the ones built in the 80's and 90's, just my opinion.
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#33
02-06-2010, 12:02 PM
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I'm having the same issue, so I'm interested in seeing what you work out. When I get into the car for the first time, the car starts right up. If I run it for 5 minutes +, then try and start the car, it cranks very slow like the battery is dead. Let it sit for an hour, it starts right up.
In my case, I think it's the battery. I plan on pulling my battery out of my other car and giving it a try.
__________________
1967 Firebird 400 1968 Charger 383 |
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#34
02-06-2010, 06:12 PM
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Then thats it sit for an hour . When it cools down fires like a dream. i had the same issue . |
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#35
02-06-2010, 11:24 PM
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Had the same issue. Run a 0 gauge wire from the battery to the starter. Also if you have a ground wire attached to the cylinder head, run one from there to the starter. I hooked mine up to the bottom of the mounting bolt.
NEVER had an issue after that. I do have a DEI starter heat shield on it. My starter is a 40$ special from Napa. Have had it for almost 3 years.  HTH, Dave
__________________
1967 Pontiac Tempest 2dr HRDTP Coupe 468 C.I. 500 HP 5 speed = FUN!!! 1990 Chevy Suburban R2500 Daily Driver 1986 Volvo DL245 Wagon.. Project car!!! The Burb Files |
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#36
02-06-2010, 11:38 PM
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I just ran the 0 gauge wire on my 68 but can't test it until spring.. Hope it works
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#37
02-07-2010, 12:29 AM
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Do you have a stock starter..if you do i can tell you how to fix it and you will never have the problem again
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#38
02-07-2010, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
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#39
02-07-2010, 11:09 AM
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X2
Quote:
X2 
__________________
1967 Pontiac Tempest 2dr HRDTP Coupe 468 C.I. 500 HP 5 speed = FUN!!! 1990 Chevy Suburban R2500 Daily Driver 1986 Volvo DL245 Wagon.. Project car!!! The Burb Files |
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#40
02-07-2010, 12:42 PM
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Well if your starter wont turn turn over and it sounds like a weak battery after your engine is hot its because the case on the starter is heating up and expanding. When this happens the clearances between the armature and magnets change causing this to happen.
An easy way to fix this is remove the starter. Look on the case for the seam. Its just a press fit thats why it expands when hot. Mig weld 3 tacks evenly along the seam, one by the nose, middle and towards the end. Problem should be solved |
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