[GT182]

Originally Posted by vamman1

Gary, you got snow?

Well raise my rent.

Yeah we got snow..... 26's of it with another 12"s coming Wednesday.

Baby need new sneakers.... as in a set of WL T/A Radials. And this next strom should just about pay for them.

[Old Goat 67]

Vamman,

That brown lead that supplies 12V to switch on control panel should come from the Heater fuse on the fuse panel, but I cannot confirm this with the schematics I have.

That has to feed 12V to the master relay to operate the relay. Whenever the main switch is in any other postion other than Off, the realy should operate.

Charles

[vamman1]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

Vamman,

That brown lead that supplies 12V to switch on control panel should come from the Heater fuse on the fuse panel, but I cannot confirm this with the schematics I have.

That has to feed 12V to the master relay to operate the relay. Whenever the main switch is in any other postion other than Off, the realy should operate.

Charles

Didn't bite on the Saints Party comment eh?

[vamman1]

I haven't checked yet but if I do not get anything on the fuse block, where do I check "behind" the block to check for power?
Where is that "fuse" fed from?

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Power comes from the ignition switch. If the heater fuse is dead, I'd check other fuses that get power in both 'ACC' and 'RUN' positions of the ignition switch to see if any of them aren't getting power.

May have to scrape the fuse holders (retaining clips) if they're tarnished or corroded.

Not sure what else to say till you get it checked out.

And always check both ends of a fuse and retaining clips. No matter what it looks like.

[vamman1]

Just to followup and still working on it, pulled the connector off the back of the fuse holder and there is only one wire going in that has power on it... a solid black wire slightly lower gauge than all the rest.

Connection is packed with grease... should I clean up?

If so with what and should I "repack" it with something?

[vamman1]

Just finished with the tester.

All fuses have power in the fuse block.

So I went to the heater controls. No power on the driver side connections.

On the passenger side, there are two connectors, one of which has a brown and grey wire. In that connector, the brown wire has power. Nothing else connected to the heater controls has power.

HHHEEEEELLLLPPPPP!

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Selector lever moves power from brown wire to gray tripping the relay outside that sends power back inside to the fan switch.

If that's not confusing, nothing is. That's just how it works.

[Old Goat 67]

Or, another way to say it.

Selector switch MUST be in any position besides OFF to energize the master relay which provides power to the whole system, fan and compressor.

[vamman1]

I moved the selector lever but nothing happened.

Something has let go in the heater controls??? Just installed new relay.


***I should add that something "clicks" out on the firewall but the blower does not engage.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Looked back at first/original post. I kind of let the odd ball parts slip between the cracks.
Need to see what's hot outside when the relay trips. Hopefully something's hot when it does. May have to do some wire swapping to get the blower going.

Going to need all of the AC parts for the blower to work "right".

Should be able to swap some wires till then. Guranteed it's not going to work like it's suppose to though.

So see what's happening under the hood and post back. Surely someone, here or there, can figure something out. Need to know what's going on to do so.

One more thing, selector lever is moving power from brown to gray I hope...??? Like hopefully the "click" you're hearing is the relay.

[vamman1]

The clicking is the relay doing something and I should have power somewhere on the relay?

I'll check tonight. What "should" have power on the relay? Three wires on the relay right now.

[vamman1]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Looked back at first/original post. I kind of let the odd ball parts slip between the cracks.
Need to see what's hot outside when the relay trips. Hopefully something's hot when it does. May have to do some wire swapping to get the blower going.

Going to need all of the AC parts for the blower to work "right".

Should be able to swap some wires till then. Guranteed it's not going to work like it's suppose to though.

So see what's happening under the hood and post back. Surely someone, here or there, can figure something out. Need to know what's going on to do so.

One more thing, selector lever is moving power from brown to gray I hope...??? Like hopefully the "click" you're hearing is the relay.

With the selector on VENT and fan on "4", power goes from brown to gray. (YAY!)

Checked the relay and I have power on one wire; the red one only.

Please say I'm getting close!!!

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Selector lever (when moved from off) is suppose to switch power from brown to gray when ignition switch is on.

Red wire.....Diagram Charles posted doesn't show a red wire on the relay.

Relay should have one wire hot all the time. The one from the back of the alternator with the inline fuse.
Other two terminals on relay: One should be the gray wire mentioned above that gets hot when you move the selector lever. It should be the one making the relay click. When the relay clicks, the other wire (brown) should have power on it.

So when the relays tripped, all three wires should have power on them. Power from alternator, power from gray wire, and then power going to the resistor and back inside to the heater controls. The wire that gets hot and goes to the resistor and heater controls is a different brown wire from the one inside that powers up the gray wire.

Does the red wire look factory, or is it something thats been changed/added to make the blower run before when the AC parts were missing?

How close....scared to say. With mix match parts and knowing it had been made to work before, without actually seeing it, it makes it hard to say what's going on.

Making the relay click tells me you're getting close enough that we can get the fan running. Might end up with high fan only till you get all the right parts.

If the relay is good and has power from the alternator. When it clicks you should be able to run a single wire to the fan and have high.

Check out what's happening at the relay, compare what wires you've got to the diagram, and post back before you try swapping any wires around.

I hate for the next post to have anything in it about a fire.

[vamman1]

Did you say FIRE?

I'll have to find the source of that red wire.
Thanks!

[vamman1]

Turns out it is NOT a red wire.... but someone decided to put red paint on the end and when I removed the electrical tape, grey wire!

So now I have the leads correctly placed on the relay and the grey wire has power going to the relay. Still no blower.

[vamman1]

"QUICK-SILVER", I've skinned off the wires going along the valve cover and I can not find the 30A inline fuse anywhere.

The brown wires on the relay have no power.

Hey, thanks for the help thus far....

[vamman1]

OK, here's some pics... don't laugh.

[Old Goat 67]

IF you do NOT have power going into the relay on the BLK/DBL ORN wire, you will NOT have power coming out when the relay operates!

The Grey wire's only funtion is to OPERATE the relay.

[Old Goat 67]

From the looks of that wiring, you have a MESS.
Whomever has really caused you a headache. You should have a BLK/DBL ORN wire from the Batt term on the alternator, throught a 30 amp fuse, then to the relay to be feed out of it on the brown wires, upon operation of the relay.