[TedRamAirII]

I don't know of any Low Brake Fluid light, unless you added a MC with a sensor on it? You may want to make sure you have good connections through the bulkhead connector.


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[johnta1]

Probably meant low pressure?
If one side of MC has a leak/lower pressure the light will come on.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by Frank69

I installed new sockets and new bulbs and tested all of them. All worked well and were tight.

I can't count the times that I've had to tweak/bend the wires on new bulbs so they would make contact when you put them in the socket. And just because a socket sticks in and twists tight doesn't mean the brass socket contacts are tight against the flatwire in the printed circuit.

Originally Posted by Frank69

The low brake fluid sensor is not connected properly but it never has been as long as I can remember.

Wouldn't worry about that for now. The wire to it and the e-brake switch wire are spliced together at the bulkhead connector. So got to get the e-brake straightened out and the other will work when you hook it up right.

Originally Posted by Frank69

Still wonder why the alt and oil lite and everything else works and this temp lite is not being agreeable!

Somewhere someplace something isn't making contact like it should. Bulb fit in the socket, socket to printed circuit contact, Poor terminal contact between connector/plug-in and printed circuit...And could be a break, tear or defect on one of the flatwires in the printed circuit.
Other than access these are about as simple as it gets when it comes to diagnose and repair.
Just gonna have to dig in and get er done
Clay

[Frank69]

Clay, your 9/24 post may have the ans. I have the orig pc and a spare that did not work and the new one in the cluster. I carefully looked at the orig and there are marks on the board where every bulb holder was installed. Checked the spare board I replaced for these same marks and there are no marks on the Temp lite socket! The E Brake, Oil, alt, temp lite, and the gas gauge all powered by the Gauge Feed on the pc board. If the Temp socket is not grounded to the pc could that be the problem? Would that cause the Bk lite to fail? Thanks so much for all your patience and knowledge and it looks like I know what to look for when I take the dash down again. Frank69

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by Frank69

If the Temp socket is not grounded to the pc could that be the problem? Would that cause the Bk lite to fail?

The two brass contacts in the socket have to be tight against the flatwire in the printed circuit. The back side of the printed circuit still has the plastic to insulate the flatwire from grounding to the cluster.

It's a simple circuit; one bulb with two contacts, hot from gauge fuse and ground to it's respective switch (like E-brake) or sending unit.

I suspect when you pull the cluster out the problem will be easy to see.

Be patient and don't over think it.
Clay

[Frank69]

Soon I will go into the dash again and try to find the problem. Looks like it will be cooler soon and when time permits I will get her done. Will keep you guys posted on my journey thru this deal but I have learned a lot and feel more confident since our conversations. Thanks again! Am taking her to a cruise tonight as the temp is suppose to be 80! Frank69

[Frank69]

Clay, now have a Digital Multimeter. Have tried to get a reading on the green wire hooked to the temp sender (wire tech said had a short) and can get nothing.. What is the correct way to get a reading on this wire? Ign switch must be on, meter set @20M, red test wire to the green wire and black grounded to motor? Any way I have tried this it will not respond on readout. Would having no reading at all be what the tech says is a short?
I know nothing about this meter as is plain to see. What should I do? Thanks for your help on this puzzle.. Frank69

["QUICK-SILVER"]

First things first: DON'T take ohm readings with the ignition switch on.

Meter should've been set on DC Volts with key on.
We all ready know, from previously grounding the sending unit wire, that voltage isn't making it through the temp bulb out to the sending unit wire.

Key off, if everything was working "RIGHT" on your car, you should have got some kind of ohm reading checking sending unit wire to ground. With the single power supply to the printed circuit, at minimum you would have seen temp bulb resistance (in ohm's) and fuel guage resistance from hot to ground, plus any resistance in the wire length envolved.
Most fuel gauges, in those years, will give around a 150 ohm resistance reading from hot to ground. Add bulb, wiring and resistance through engine/body, you could end up with something in the 150~200 ohm range. That's testing sending unit wire to ground resistance in ohms.

This is important: you need to play with the new meter and learn the difference between 0 (zero) ohms and infinite. Both can show zero's on the meter. 0 (zero) ohms is no resistance at all. That's the reading you should get when touching the two probe ends together...... Probe ends not touching anything is an infinite or open reading. Typically it's a figure eight laying on its side in front of the zeros. Like this: ∞00.00π.

Not knowing how to use a meter correctly will hurt more than help.
So play with your meter and get a feel for it. Check a straight piece of wire, resistance through a bulb, plug wires are really interesting, across a coil, just whatever it takes to get to know it.
Applying that new found knowledge to diagnosing electrical problems with cars ....That'll be another learning experience.

Have fun with it and let us know what you find..or don't find.
Clay

[Frank69]

Thanks for all your wisdom and advice. I will play with the new toy and see what I can do but so far I can test a 9V batt!. Wonder if the Heat lite conn is keeping the E brake from working or would it have the same prob? That may be determined when I get the panel out again. Taking car to a big show Sat as the weather is beautiful, no rain in forecast.
Drove it to a cruise Tues nite and everything works great but those two lites. New dash lites are awesome! Thanks again for the assistance. Frank69

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by Frank69

Wonder if the Heat lite conn is keeping the E brake from working or would it have the same prob? That may be determined when I get the panel out again.

Wont know till you get in there and look. It's possible that the flat wire is broke/defective that carries power to those two bulbs.
The sender/switch, ground side of those two bulbs, are on opposite corners of the plugin. Unless the flatwire tabs are misaligned I doubt the plugin being the problem..BUT..That's if the plugin terminals are making good tight contact with the flatwire in the printed circuit.
Could be some of the plastic backing is covering flatwire where it's suppose to be bare. That'll need checked at the plugin and where the socket contacts make connection.
Just gonna take a good inspection.

Originally Posted by Frank69

Taking car to a big show Sat as the weather is beautiful, no rain in forecast.

Have fun at the show. My bird cleans up and shows good. I'm just not able to do it anymore. This is it on one of it's last outings. Got "QUICK SILVER" across the bottom of the front spoiler.
Clay

[Frank69]

Hi Clay, Nice car you have there! Have been off the net since Fri. Went to the show and it was fun. Decided to look at the lite prob and removed the Panel under the steering wheel for a little closer look. Could see the btm of the panel and part of the pc board which seemed to be stuck in a bind between the panel and an iron brace for the dash.
Pried on it with a screw driver, put the em brake on, turned on the switch and zingo the brake lite came on. Now am working on the heat lite. Let you know if anything new shows.
Frank69

[Frank69]

Have the dash on the bench. Visual check of the connections seem to be ok. All conn have connection marks and the main plugin conn looks good too. Corrected the prob with brake lite. Was into the dash frame enough for the prob. Bent the frame slightly and it works ok now. Put cluster back into car for a test. Temp lite is still out and when I first tried it the oil lite failed. I changed the temp bulb base and tested it with the bulb and its good.
Will install spare Board tomorrow and see what happens. Don't the Temp lite get its test power from another source? Let ya know if anything changes. Thanks for your
patience and assistance.. Frank69

[Frank69]

Hope you miss the Storm! Soo Baad! Am putting another pc in the panel today. Let ya know results. Any Ideas or advice? Frank69

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by Frank69

Any Ideas or advice?

Need to be playing with that new multi meter. You can verify everything in the cluster works before you put it back in the dash.
Need to test the green temp sender wire while the cluster is out.

I'll be more than glad to help with specific directions if you need them.

Most will be just ohm testing at the printed circuit plugin.

Temp sensor wire: Take an ohm reading on the green sending unit wire to a good ground. With both ends unplugged (cluster and sending unit) you should get an open/infinite (∞) reading.
Then ground the green wire under the hood and take a reading from the connector to a good ground. You should get a low reading when you do that test. I would hope 5π's or less, just as long as it's not an infinite ∞ reading.

I like tracing and marking the flat wires in the printed circuit just so it's easier to check at the plugin. That way if you end up with an open/infinite ∞ reading, while doing an ohm test through the bulb, you can check each flatwire from the plugin to the bulb.

So do a little testing before you stick the cluster back in.
I'll try to check back often to see how things are going.
Clay
And good luck, try to make it a fun learning experience.

[Frank69]

They only let him get away out of kindness I suppose! Great line from Willie, & etal.
Always be a Haggard & Nelson fan! I checked out the Dash panel as best I could, Changed out the pc board and put it back together today for a test. Fixed the Brake lite, was rubing the dash framework, Oil & ALT WORK ok. nothing on the temp lite. Checked the bulb, put in new bulb socket. Checked the pc connector & It seems to be good. Grounds must be good. Everything works but the temp lite don't lite when the key is turned on. Wonder what would happen if the car got hot? It never has but wonder if the lite would come on?
Am getting pretty good at tearing out the dash & putting it back together! Whatever is wrong is still wrong. New board etc didn't change anything. This all started when I changed out the pc and installed new dash lite bulbs. Nice to have dash lites!
Thanks to everyone for all the input. Let ya know if it heals itself! Frank69

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Did you try touching the sending unit wire to ground under the hood to see if the light would come on?
Or use your meter and check for voltage on the sending unit wire.

Either will tell you if the light will come on when or if the engine overheats, (as long as the sending unit is good).

You're getting closer
Clay

[Frank69]

This AM went to car to test installation job. Started car and while in the start mode the Temp lite lite up! Went off when engine fired. Won't lite with key in on position, go to start and she lites and goes off when she starts. Checked other dash lites and they seem to be fine. Signal lites, Hi beam, head lites brite and dim and Brake lite all seem normal. Wish I could use the meter but will try to learn after I rest up a bit. Thanks again for your support and info. Dash sure looks nice properly lite... Frank69

[Frank69]

Grounded sending unit wire to motor, turned on ignition switch to acc. position and the temp lite came on.. as well as the other lites that usually lite up. Disconnected ground and lite will not lite. Getting closer... Thanks, Frank69

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by Frank69

Grounded sending unit wire to motor, turned on ignition switch to acc. position and the temp lite came on.. as well as the other lites that usually lite up. Disconnected ground and lite will not lite. Getting closer... Thanks, Frank69

As long as the sending unit is good.....sounds like you've got it fixed!

Congrats
Clay

[Frank69]

Would a new sending unit provide a proper ground? Thanks, Frank69