[avman]

Thanks Tom.
The cylinder heads are definitely "777" heads, with an 8 in front of the 3 7s where the casting is between the valve springs, and a "65" under that. On the outside of an end exhaust runner, the "777" is also cast.
The cast iron manifolds have the dividing line between some of the exhaust runners visible, and I had previously been told here that was RA2 manifolds.
So if I understand your post, I have 1967 Ram Air exhaust manifolds?
I'll post a few pix.

I'll repeat my question:
Is there an aluminum Tripower intake w/65 size (smaller holes) for the center carb?
AND
If the only aluminum Tripower intake available has the same size holes, what is the best source for those?
THANKS EVERYONE
For now I'm running the cast iron intake as is.

[b-man]

No aluminum 1965 intake available.

[avman]

Originally Posted by b-man

No aluminum 1965 intake available.

That's what Mr Boneske said. Thanks
So...source for an aluminum 1966 style Tripower intake?? If there are more than one, is one aluminum Tripower intake better than another? What I am asking is are some better cast than others?
Thanks.

[b-man]

They’re all made at the same casting house, some castings are better than others so it’s a bit of a crap shoot. It’s a very low-volume product with a limited market.

Pick whichever vendor that you feel will offer the best customer service in the event you’re not satisfied with the quality of the part.

Wouldn’t be a bad idea to try our forum sponsor Ames, they should carry that intake.

[PontiacJim1959]

If you are willing to buy an EFI 3x2 which I think needs the larger 1966 manifold, why not just get the adapters for the '66 intake and install a set of new Holley tri-power carbs and be done with it? Plenty of CFM's and it'll look more like original.

https://www.ebay.com/i/233471655032?...SABEgJIxvD_BwE

or buy a complete set-up ready to bolt on:

http://tmpcarbs.blogspot.com/p/409-h...x4-set-up.html

Keep in mind that you will also be spending additional money to improve/upgrade your fuel system requirements with the FiTech so that needs to be added into the overall purchase price to convert.

[avman]

Thanks for the replies...
Considering I just made a major investment in the 3 Rochesters, I'm not at all interested in switching over to Holley carbs.
I've been poking around and it looks like the 66 aluminum intake is around $369-$399. Some say available in March, others don't prevent me putting one in my shopping cart.
Boneske has an adapter to mount the 65 center carb on the 66 intake.
Right now, I'm going to finish hooking everything up, and then seeing how it runs and drives with the "BONESKE-FIED" Tripower.
I'll check back in today.

[avman]

The modifications and work that Dick Boneske has done to these Rochesters has the 421 in the 65 GTO running better than EVER in a big way.
I won't know how much better the wide open throttle performance is until I get to the drag strip and get some time slips, but it certainly feels like it's pulling harder than ever, and ALL aspects of the dead stop to lifting at some point in 4th gear "racing simulations" I've been running on the abandoned, traffic and pedestrian free street that runs through state and federal wildlife preserves where I live on the edge of have been FLAWLESS from a performance standpoint.
Much much more noticeable is the VAST IMPROVEMENT in drivability! The 421 always had "issues" in the background, that is to say I could perceive it surging, stumbling slightly, and "missing" but not like an ignition system miss, just an engine that was NOT running anywhere near the capabilities that we had built it to. Hand ported 777 1965 heads, hydraulic roller cam and lifters, with springs to match. (CompCams roller tipped rocker arms and pushrod guide plates were already in the 421 when we bought the GTO.)
10.1:1 forged aluminum pistons at .035 over, Eagle H-beam rods, billet steel double roller timing set, Pertronix billet aluminum distributor and the Ignitor III multiple spark, high output module lighting the mix with a Flamethrower ignition coil. 1967 "Ram Air" exhaust manifolds. Lots of great stuff, none of it up to it's potential until Boneske modded the Tripower! It used to kill a lot too.
GREAT WORK DICK BONESKE!
For more: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...2&postcount=20

[Tom Vaught]

Dick is one of the best out there with the Tri-Power Carbs, lots of people have his worked over carbs on their engines.

Glad that you are happy with the carb modifications so far.

Tom V.

[avman]

Thanks for the reply Tom.
It looks like my wife is going to be able and willing to go to the drag strip tomorrow, and the weather is going to cooperate. That is quite the combination....So I'm hoping to get a half dozen or so runs in. We've never used the line lock, so I want to try that out. With the wheel and tire diameter, and the 3.80 ring and pinion gearset, I think a 2nd gear burnout w/our manual transmission should get enough tire speed to warm up and clean off the Toyo Proxes TQ drag radials. Once I get the process down, hopefully my wife will get it, and be ready to go on her own.
The first couple of runs should be with me behind the wheel, and then I'll turn her car back over to her and let her see how it goes.
We are looking for better than 12.80, but I certainly EXPECT to at least see a much improved time slip.

[avman]

Ok, so I posted details in another thread, so rather than write another novella here, here's the link:
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...2&postcount=24

[avman]

The heat block offs that Mr Boneske supplied were thicker than the ones that came with the Mr Gasket intake manifold gaskets, and when I tightened up the iron intake manifold bolts, there are fine cracks on the runners for the heat x-over. Too thick an area between the gasket, the metal plate, and the red Permatex. Now I have run the car at the track, and I don't think the cracked runners are going to be a problem since they are completely sealed off, but I can see an aluminum 66 style intake in the future. I may "clean it up" depending on how the ports line up and how the casting looks.
I will say the heat x-over block off and the Cool Carb insulator plates I installed between the intake and the Rochesters really have kept them cool. Once summer in the deep South hits, that will be the test.
I've also decided to get a Hydramax hydraulic throwout bearing and install that along with the TKO600 5 speed installation. I got one going on the Passon Performance a855 5 speed in my Roadrunner, and I just received the HitMaster launch control system (see pic). If the HitMaster works as well as I expect it to, I can get one for the GTO, dial it in, and then tell her "hold the RPMs at x,xxx at the launch, dump the clutch and floor it, and that way she can get great, more consistent launches and 60 ft times. It's made by the same guy who makes the Clutch Tamer, and both immediately get the clamping pressure right in the sweet spot as soon as you let off the pedal. The HitMaster has an electric timer and solenoid, so it will hold that hit pressure level for the full time set, vs easing on and then through the ideal clutch disc "squeeze". See graph

[Singleton]

Originally Posted by avman

The heat block offs that Mr Boneske supplied were thicker than the ones that came with the Mr Gasket intake manifold gaskets, and when I tightened up the iron intake manifold bolts, there are fine cracks on the runners for the heat x-over. Too thick an area between the gasket,

I’d be asking the “Titan of Tri-Power” to do the right thing and send you a new intake, since his product caused the cracks

[avman]

There's reasons why I have a nickname for him, and it's because of the outstanding work that he did on my carburetors, the advice he's given, and his well deserved sterling reputation. Mr Boneske is a gentleman I hold in high regard, and has "old school" integrity.
What is the point of installing thin metal heat x-over block off plates, that several members of this forum said would burn out in a short time? If anything, I should have recognized that I had to accommodate the added thickness of the block off plates, and not torque down on the bolts on either side as much, or section the gasket.
You don't know anything about our business transaction other than what I've posted here, so to presume to suggest what I should expect or ask for is inappropriate and frankly, rude.

[Singleton]

I've used stainless block off plates many times, and .060" is just too thick. I, (like many others here), make them from cheap flimsy stainless putty knives that are about .024" thick. They don't burn through, and are thin enough not to crack the intake.

Here's from the Pontiac guru himself, Jim Hand, recommending .012"-.020": http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...8&postcount=35

By the way, I caught your post before the edit, talk about bad manners, jeez.
To answer your question, no I don't have an ax to grind against richard. I've bought parts from him in the past, and would again. But he should have known that .060 is too thick

[avman]

Originally Posted by Singleton

I've used stainless block off plates many times, and .060" is just too thick. I, (like many others here), make them from cheap flimsy stainless putty knives that are about .024" thick. They don't burn through, and are thin enough not to crack the intake.

Here's from the Pontiac guru himself, Jim Hand, recommending .012"-.020": http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...8&postcount=35

By the way, I caught your post before the edit, talk about bad manners, jeez.
To answer your question, no I don't have an ax to grind against richard. I've bought parts from him in the past, and would again. But he should have known that .060 is too thick

Thank you for the helpful, informative reply. Sincerely appreciated.
Maybe he should have known better, I won't debate that. I was going to use a putty knife blade, as someone else had suggested, but when I talked to Boneske he told me about the plates and I didn't know better. I think if I would have snugged down the bolts on either side of the heat x-over port, I would have been fine. If I would have cut out that section of gasket, I probably would have been fine. If what seems to be a common practice was better communicated, like in a sticky post, I would not have had to wait for the best advice. If I would have asked earlier, anticipating possible issues, I would have done ok.
What I don't like is someone to tell me what I should do in a business transaction that they don't know the details of, but I really want to put that behind me and move forward, learning from my mistakes.
So once again, thank you very much for the detailed, helpful reply.

[avman]

I just read the linked advice by Jim Hand (I have never heard of him, so I really appreciate the link and perspective of his status) Sounds good, and I am relieved to see that Hand suggested using high temperature RTV on both sides of the metal plate. I ran a thin bead around all of the intake ports, and on each side of my metal plates. I am confident that the thickness of the RTV was not the factor that caused the "RTV+metal plate sandwich" between the gasket and the intake manifold to crack the heat x-over runners.
Great info, thanks Singleton

[avman]

I just watched the YouTube video of your car Singleton, and I have to say, it sounds FIERCE! The 421 in my wife's GTO sounds stock by comparison.
Since you're in Alabama I guess by the license plate, are you planning on coming to Cruisin the Coast in 2020? Have you been? If so, I'd like to meet you and check out your car. Gulfport Dragway would be a great place for you to demonstrate its performance.
What kind of GoodYear tires are those, what size? I don't see ANY way to fit a tire wider than about 10" in the stock rear fenderwells.

[Singleton]

Been to CTC a few times but it has gotten too crowded and congested for me.
Used to go to Gulfport dragway quite a bit when I had a 2006 GTO. Got it to run a best of 10.97@124. Haven’t taken the 66 yet.

Those are Goodyear drag radials 275/60-15. They stopped making them a few years ago. I now run M&H Racemaster radials in the same size. Hooks really well on street.

[avman]

275/60-15...
I took a guess when I got 17" aluminum wheels for both the GTO and my 70 Roadrunner. Both cars 8" wide front wheels and 9" wide rear wheels. I knew the Roadrunner had more wheelwell space and I guessed that 315/35-17 Toyo Proxes TQ drag radials would fit, and they do. With the 5" backspacing (4" on the front wheels) the rear tires are perfectly centered and could have been a factory option.
The GTO got BF Goodrich Comp T/A radials in a 275/40-17 and just fit.
I have had such great street performance, especially not worrying about rain and impending death being the inseparable partnership, with the Toyo Proxes TQ drag radials that I got a pair for the GTO in the same size. I had a bad experience with Nitto 555R drag radials on my Conquest TSi in light rain, and I'll NEVER use those again on the street.
Both cars are manual transmission motivated, so if I ever get to the end of traction improvement options, I will look at a different rear tire option, possibly even a bias ply. The next traction "trick" at the launch is a Hydramax hydraulic throwout bearing and HitMaster launch control system in the Roadrunner, and if it works as well as I expect, the GTO is getting the Hydramax with the TKO600, and I can add a HitMaster to it too.
Cruisin the Coast is THE annual must attend event for us. The stop and go can be a workout on the clutch leg after a while, but I wouldn't miss it for anything.

[Old Man Taylor]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

You could always do what Chuck Roberts did to his 1965 original Tri-Power intake, if you could not get it welded properly.

You could have a machine shop remove the cross-over completely, use steel plates to cover the exhaust cross-over openings, and have the intake aluminized so it looked like the extremely rare 1965 aluminum Tri-Power prototype intake that a Detroit Collector showed me years ago.

Chuck's 1965 GTO always got a lot of looks when people saw that intake.

Tom V.

You mean like this?