[sdbob]

I had a test stand when we moved years ago.it was heavy so I pitched it. Thinking of new stand specifically for our Pontiacs that is light but easy to store. I'm thinking also about adaptations to other brands,friends. Engine mount centers?. Looked at couple on net with slide mounts. Any ideas from you guys? Thanks.

[Tom Vaught]

I am actively building one (when the Virus is whipped and the Fabrication Shop can continue with the build).
I took some ideas from a old Pontiac magazine for a run stand and those articles I posted or others posted on
the board a couple of months ago.

Do a search on engine run stand.

Tom V.

[sdbob]

Thanks Tom. I got one Tom Demauro,spl, did. I will.

[Tom Vaught]

Yes, The Tom Demauro/ Randy Allen/ Hand engine stand is a pretty good one except that you are not using a bellhousing to cover the flywheel area. The stand kind of acts as a multi-post fragment shield for the flywheel if it came apart.

I did a lot of research on Run Stands in the last years and think a take apart stand is a better way to go. Bedplate being one part. Casters and sliding adjustable width tubes being a second part. Ability to rotate the engine is down on my list but I made a vertical mount that could allow that to happen. For sure the ability to install a scattershield over the flywheel.

I will only do Pontiac Engines so some of the mount stuff just needs one mounting position. I have the Radiator/Fan/ Fuel tank parts covered.

Tom V.

[Entropy11]

I have one planned that should be going together within the next 2 weeks. My main concerns sound similar to yours. I’d like something that can disassemble easily, fit our pontiacs (but have the ability to modify for other engines if the need arises), and most importantly store in the smallest amount of space possible.

I have access to decent amounts of leftover steel from work so I’m designing my stand with the materials I have on hand. I just started test fitting some of the pieces together this week. I have to grab my scrap block from the machine shop this week (failed testing) and that should assist with test fitting.

If you’re interested I can shoot you some PM’s as it moves along.

Dennis

[Tom Vaught]

Send the PMs to SDBOB and I and we can collectively create a good one for each ones needs. I plan on posting up some pictures when my bed plate, vertical stand for the scattershield, and Radiator & Fuel Tank locations are finalized.

Tom V.

[SRR]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ApF0MZ5kPQo

Mine doesn't come apart but is completely self contained and modified to fit Pontiac, SBC, BBC, Olds and a Buick 455. I've had a Ford engine on it once. I don't understand NOT using a quiet exhaust. You are testing to hear the engine and not anger your neighbors! That noise you hear in this vid caused this engine to be torn down again. The builder did a horrible job of cleaning and the engine had to be redone.

[Schurkey]

I run 'em on the same stand I build them on. Hook an engine hoist to the front lifting point for added stability. I push a "radiator cart"--has switchgear, gauges, battery, cables, etc. to the front, and let 'er rip.

Torque reaction does create some "twist" in the mounting. Added care with throttle opening/closing minimizes problems.

Everything except the radiator cart is stuff I already owned, and therefore stuff I was already storing when not in use. Exhaust system came from a totaled car, with some flex-tube to make it universal.

[Entropy11]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

Send the PMs to SDBOB and I and we can collectively create a good one for each ones needs. I plan on posting up some pictures when my bed plate, vertical stand for the scattershield, and Radiator & Fuel Tank locations are finalized.

Tom V.

Will do Tom, sounds good.

[sdbob]

Thanks. I try not to be to complicated. The idea of flipping engine ,I hadnt thought of, nice idea.Plus disassembly is good for storage.I have alot of steel,pipe. Any Square tubing I would need to buy.

[Tom Vaught]

My stand will be made from double 1.5"x1.5" (.125 wall) square tubing.
It will have enough rise (caster height that my Engine Crane legs can pass under the rails.
Flywheels spinning around without any cover over them would get you fired at my old job. My flywheel will always be contained. There were marks on the floor/walls/ceiling of a dyno test stand where a escaped flywheel decided to take a few laps around the room.

A Dyno Tech had been in that room checking on the engine a minute or so earlier.
He was white as a sheet after that deal happened.

Not going to happen on my watch.

Those are some functional stands. I will post some pictures of mine after it is completed.

Tom V.

[dataway]

Here's one I built last year ... made from a modified three wheel stand converted to four wheel, has removable (slip fit tube) sockets for radiator support, engine mount supports, gauge panel ... and not shown in the photo rear mount supports that allow a transmission to be mounted ... all of them are removable so it can be converted back into a simple rotating engine stand. Room for battery and fuel cell beneath.

In fact if all goes well after the test drives I'll probably be selling it in a year or so. BTW ... the removable engine mount supports allow adapters to be made for any engine.

[tom s]

Tom,sent you a text pic.Tom

[Tom Vaught]

My stand will be similar in concept to this stand but not be a copy of this stand.

IT WILL NOT BE AS TALL AS IT JUST NEEDS TO CLEAR MY CHERRY PICKER

https://easy-run.net/product/professional-series/

All of my engine stands are being used and I have the material/time to build a run stand
that fits my needs.

This one has 95% of what I want as far as design features. I have 3 engines to build at some point.

Tom V.

NICE STAND MODIFICATION DATAWAY.

[lust4speed]

Several years ago I "borrowed" the rough dimensions of a friends Easy-Run stand to make my own. We lowered the assembly to where it just cleared the cherry picker. Fast forward to about a year ago and the friend's family called me after he passed away and offered me a pretty good deal on the same Easy Run stand. Hate to say it but I like my slightly different run stand better.

We did learn that it doesn't work to cheap out on the wheels. First attempt were a cool looking set of air-filled wheels that were advertised to be 500 pounds a wheel. At 1-1/2 times the maximum pressure they were only half flat and were a pain when moving the loaded stand. Urethane wheels are the only way to go.

Next we found out that the Easy Run stand and our original copy only allowed loading the engine from the side since the cherry picker legs hit the stand's front wheels. A minor change to our stand bringing the front wheels in somewhat solved that and now we can load from the front as the photo shows.

The Easy Run radiator and fan is a little marginal for hot weather break-in and a larger radiator and higher capacity fans help out a lot.

I don't hook up an alternator or any other accessory and now simply run a short belt around the crank and water pump pulleys. Simple is always better. Battery is easily kept charged by a 50 amp converter out of a motor home.

Both the Easy Run and our clone have a bell-housing attached to a thick walled tube, and the bell-housing can be first be attached to the engine and the tube drops down into a trough in the stand. Makes setup a lot faster and cleaner.

Both stands have adjustable front engine mounts that can move fore and aft and wider or narrower depending on type of engine. Mostly Pontiac's but every once in awhile we will run something else.

I wouldn't mind building another stand and would drop down a little on the main frame tubing size and also shorten the overall length by six or seven inches. I would also eliminate most of the engine mount adjustment and keep things simple.

After trying both, I also prefer the controls to be at the front of the engine. Little less noisy and busy up there.

[tom s]

I wonder why they made them so tall off the ground.Seems like they could be at least 6 inch lower?Tom

[Tom Vaught]

I agree on the "Air Tires" and mine will be some industrial machine wheels.
I did not want the super long length on my cherry picker but did want the ability
to lift a fully cast iron Chebby Big Block Engine if necessary. A friend has one in his 1965 Chevelle.

I plan on loading the engine from the side therefore the narrowed legs are not necessary. I actually modded the cherry picker legs and made them a bit wider due to a custom made Engine Stand that has a wide footprint.

I already have the extra stuff as mentioned: Fuel Cell, Radiator, Gas Tank, Battery Tray from a Pontiac, Fuel Pumps, ignition system, and headers. I have gages somewhere. Very nice stand Mick.

Tom V.

[sdbob]

Yes very nice stand. Thanks guys for all the ideas. I bought some air filled tires,why I did I dont know,for my hd garage cart. Never again junk, only hard tires. Those urethane wheels where did you purchase them?

[Tom Vaught]

Those Air Tires work, just good enough to be used to haul your Coke/Pepsi and lunch around on the beach, not much good for even a 4 wheel box trolley like the UPS guys use.

Tom V.

[lust4speed]

My urethane wheels came from a local steel supply yard, but only because I happened to be in there and they had a good price. Get at least two wheels that have the locking brake that can go on the front of the stand. Went with 6" which is what the Easy-Run stand also uses. You could go larger but I wouldn't go smaller because of more chance that the wheels would hang up on something. I'll wheel the stand into the garage to finish up the next day and those wheels don't have any problem with the bump at the edge of the garage pad.

As far as the frame height on the Easy-Run, I guess it does get the engine a little higher for us old guys to not bend over as far and it is possible to scoot under it if something has to be checked.