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#1
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Rocker Studs too long
When adjusting the valves the poly lock set screw is just in by a couple of threads and I am not comfortable with that much engagement. Can I put a hardened washer between the rocker ball and the poly lock?
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Tim Corcoran |
#2
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Just thinking out loud...
Do you have the guide plates on? Perhaps you need different length pushrods if geometry is not good? Personally, if all is good I would shorten the stud or replace with an appropriate length stud or polylock before using a washer. I'd want the set screw to be almost flush at top of nut at minimum.. I recall HO made a kit with a hardened washers and lock nuts to make bolt down rockers adjustable. So I guess it would be ok, I just wouldn't do it myself. Last edited by STEELCITYFIREBIRD; 06-02-2020 at 05:39 PM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to STEELCITYFIREBIRD For This Useful Post: | ||
#3
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Just use a shorter stud, how long is yours?
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1967 Firechicken, 499", Edl heads, 262/266@0.050" duration and 0.627"/0.643 lift SR cam, 3.90 gear, 28" tire, 3550#. 10.01@134.3 mph with a 1.45 60'. Still WAY under the rollbar rule. |
#4
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washers OK. thousands of kits sold with no probs. A pack of SBC Hardened head bolt washers will do the job.
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GOOD IDEAS ARE OFTEN FOUND ABANDONED IN THE DUST OF PROCRASTINATION |
#5
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I have rocker studs that are too long too, for a reason.
I use Ford Cleveland Rocker Arm Studs m6527-C311 is the part number They 1.850" long and have used them for many years. I ran solid lifter cams during all of that time. I used regular length 7/16 Poly Locks but without the set screw. I used 7/16-20 NYLOCK NUTS (GRADE 8) on top of the poly locks. NEVER MOVED EVER. I bought a large box of the nuts that I still have with 98% of the nuts still there. So I do not worry around the stud length as I also run TALL valve covers. Just Saying. (The tall rocker covers are designed for stud stabilizer plates.) Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#6
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Quote:
You could go with a shorter length poly lock as they do come in different lengths. But, to save a few bucks and use what you now have, try the washers under the poly lock. It may take 1 or 2, you'll have to judge it. I get hardened Grade 8 washers from Tractor Supply Company if you have one near by. You buy them by weight, not the pack/box, so they are very inexpensive. |
#7
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i have yet to have this issue. i have always have the right studs, rocker arm, rocker nut or poly lock combo i guess....lol
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1970 firebird, 468, e heads, |
#8
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Can really get confusing if you don't get a recommendation, or you have a set that may have a;ready been on the car and don't know what style/make they are. |
#9
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The head-bolt washers always worked for us.
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Pioneer part #S-1018 pack of 34 is under $8.50 on amazon. Either one has enough washers to do TWO engines with a few spares. Good luck! |
#10
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Thanks guys for the info a lot better to just put a washer on there than change the studs. Joe thanks a lot of the info on the washers I am going to order the Pioneer part #S-1018 on Amazon.
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Tim Corcoran |
#11
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You're coulpe of threads plus one wont give much adjusting room if lash needs tightened once you get it fired up. 7/16ths crimp nuts might be in you future. The gold colored ones made for aircraft are some mean son of a guns. They will not back off if studs are in good shape. Clay |
#12
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We've never had to, but you could always stack two washer to get another thread.
Probably would even work with three, but the more washers you stack, the closer to your valve covers the polylock bodies will get.
I think the Mr Gasket washers used to be thicker than .065" - but it's been a while. |
#13
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I am pretty sure one washer will be all I need.
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Tim Corcoran |
#14
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I ordered the pioneers from Amazon came in two days problem solved. Thanks Joe and Ken for the great advice.
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Tim Corcoran |
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