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Nomad68 · 10-25-2001, 10:15 PM

Have a 68 GTO 400 motor and a 4 speed. Got a set of headers on it and a leak at the 8 cylinder. I have tried to tighten the bolts to no avail. The heads are late 67 vintage #17. What header gaskets do I need to order to do the job right the first time? Which headers would you put on it if I was to change them out?
I just had the motor and transmission out so I could get the transmission fixed and check the oil pump. It was acting like a tach 0-max out. I could not find any gaskets locally so I put a set of stock metal gaskets on it along with the used Mr.Gasket that was worn.
Oh well, it didn't work out
Thanks for your info
Neil in Tenn

[This message has been edited by Nomad68 (edited 11-13-2001).]

Nomad68 · 10-25-2001, 10:15 PM

Have a 68 GTO 400 motor and a 4 speed. Got a set of headers on it and a leak at the 8 cylinder. I have tried to tighten the bolts to no avail. The heads are late 67 vintage #17. What header gaskets do I need to order to do the job right the first time? Which headers would you put on it if I was to change them out?
I just had the motor and transmission out so I could get the transmission fixed and check the oil pump. It was acting like a tach 0-max out. I could not find any gaskets locally so I put a set of stock metal gaskets on it along with the used Mr.Gasket that was worn.
Oh well, it didn't work out
Thanks for your info
Neil in Tenn

[This message has been edited by Nomad68 (edited 11-13-2001).]

Old Man Taylor · 10-26-2001, 12:46 AM

For D-port header gaskets I run the Mr. Gasket Copperseal #7171. Headers depend on how much trouble you want to put up with to save money. Try calling Doug's Headers, 714-502-0286.

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Jim

jim brady · 10-26-2001, 10:33 AM

I had the same problem. I tried several differentgaskets, I finally went to the copperseals and have never had a problem since.

Nomad68 · 11-23-2001, 11:12 PM

I put on a set of copperseals on my 68 GTO and the headers still leaked. I pull them back out and the flanges on the headers were in bad shape. I had a friend weld a bead around all the ports and then I grinded them back down with a flapper type pad on my 7" grinder almost to the flage face. Installed them with some high temp orange and no more leaks. I guess I should of bought some new headers but this saved a few bucks.
Neil in Tenn

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68 GTO and 78 Corvette

Dick Duclow · 11-25-2001, 10:45 AM

If your headers have a raised "bead" of weld around each port, use a graphite composite gasket. If they have a "flat" flange use a beaded copper gasket or the graphite composite. Paper gaskets that most header mfg's supply with the headers are inexpensive (cheap) and usually don't last very long, or seal very well

mhadac · 02-12-2002, 08:56 PM

Where do you get the graphite gaskets? My headers are ovalish sqaure. the middle two look like to D's back to back. What is this style of headers. They are on a 70 gto 455?

Larry Navarro · 02-12-2002, 09:43 PM

most header leaks are two-fold, either the header flange is not true, or the exhaust port surface on the head is not true. i had a pitted exhaust surface on one of the heads of my 455, had it resurfaced by the machine shop. the pitting was most likely caused by one of those cheap gaskets that held moisture over a period of time(while the engine sat) thus promoting rust and pitting.
i have used the FEL-PRO blue composite header gaskets for years and have had no problems. the cost is less than $20/pr.
make sure those mating surfaces are true before throwing money at those expensive copper gaskets.

Goatman · 02-12-2002, 10:28 PM

I tried the copper gaskets (can't remember who made them) on the dyno and they were the poorest sealing gaskets I ever saw. Couldn't get them to seal, even on the dyno stand! Used the Fel-Pro paper gaskets and never had a leak!

6567GTO · 02-12-2002, 11:50 PM

mhadac- Dick Duclow of Indian Adventures just sold me a set. Nice guy to deal with. Here's a link;

http://www.chiefmanyhorses.com/

mhadac · 02-13-2002, 01:54 PM

Are my headers called the d-port then?

6567GTO · 02-13-2002, 03:47 PM

yes! If they were round port they would have an oval shape.

Maniac · 02-13-2002, 06:32 PM

I've also heard ports called rectangular? Is that the same as D?

sscherin · 02-13-2002, 07:11 PM

Go find a BIG flat file (the bigger the better)

Spray a guide coat of paint on the flange and file the bead (or flange whatever your headers have) till your guide coat is gone..

Be sure to keep the file parallel to the flange.. The last thing you want to do is file one port at an angle vs the others..

I had one set of Headman Headers that would never seal because the factory ground the flange on the last tube at an angle compared to the rest.

If you arn't sure lay a straight edge across the flange and look for gaps.

455Dave · 02-17-2002, 12:40 AM

I had problems with header leaks on two of my cars, and also bolts backing out. The local shop has a huge belt sander that they used that to get all of the ports ground to an equal height. After they cleaned up the headers, I cut the flanges to let each port area seal independently. I'm using paper gaskets and never had a leak since.

Dave

Kurt Zimmerman · 02-17-2002, 11:01 AM

Another thing that works is a table sander, Bolt it to a stand and put it in the middle of the garage so you have lots of room to handle the headers.
touch them lightly to the table surface, or don't forget to hang on tight!
Kurt

[ February 17, 2002: Message edited by: Kurt Zimmerman ]</p>

Tim Corcoran · 02-21-2002, 02:31 AM

I hate leaks of any kind and will go to great lengths to eliminate them. Most headers like Headman, Hooker etc. are really poorly made. They are notorious for fit problems, seal problems etc. Most leaking headers are due to poor design and craftmanship. The weld bead around the flange was not put there for sealing purposes, it is where the tube is welded to the flange and they just grind a flat spot so they might seal. Another problem with headers is poor port match up, or lack there of. What I do to resolve these issues is, I get a brazing rod and a gas welder and braze a bead completely around each port, on the tube side of the flange. I then port match each port to the gasket with a rotary file in an air tool. Sometimes due to poor port match you have to cut into the brazed area at the point where the tube mates with the flange, not to worry that's one of the reasons you braze it. Then I carefuuly remove the welded ring around each port with a cut off wheel and then a body file to make the complete flange flat. This step would be easier if you had a table sander. The process is time consuming but when your done you will have an excellent port match and you will never have a leak again, as long as you use the felpro blue header gaskets.

Tim Corcoran

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