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#1
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Heater Control Valve. To replace, or not to replace....
Hey,
This morning it was clear and dry, but rather cool out (32ish degrees.) I decided to take the Catalina to work. On my drive there (about 45 minutes) I noticed that I never got any heat out of the heater. It was a cold ride! When I got to work, I popped the hood. I felt the upper rad hose, and it was piping hot. I then felt the heater hoses and they were no hotter than the ambient engine temp. When I got back home, I decided to start to trouble shoot. I never really drive the car when it is this cold, but I'd like to have heat if I need it.... I started at the Heater Control Valve. I took off the heater hose at the valve and blew in it to see if the heater core was plugged. It was open. I then put another hose on the valve and blew in that hose. It was closed solid. I then put my little hand held vacuum pump on the valve. I pumped and pumped, but was never able to get any vacuum to build. I then put the system all back together and started the car. I turned the heat on max, and had about 17 inches or so of vac at the heater control vac line. I then took the heater hose off the valve again, and no coolant came out. Diagnosis: bad heater control valve. With little effort, the valve came right out. I was surprised. I put a small length of vac hose on it, and sucked on it. No resistance. Bad diaphragm. So here's my question. Do I spend the 60 bucks at AutoZone for a heater control valve, or just find a straight fitting and take it out of the system. When the heat is off, the blend door takes the heater core out of the air stream anyway... Am I wrong to say the ONLY purpose this valve has, is to make sure that the AC cooled air is as cool as it can be? The car has AC, but it doesn't work, probably has a shot compressor. I don't plan on ever fixing it. Part of driving with 389 cubic inches in front of you, is sweating in the sun.... What would you guys do? Has anyone else done this? I value your input. Thanks a bunch, Matt K. |
#2
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I bought an NOS one for my '63 on E-Bay. $30. I had an intake from a non-A/C car on my A/C car, so it had the 90* straight-through fitting on it. Drove me nuts having a Vac line that did not go to anything, & I eventually plan to fix A/C. Just me. Of course when you get a Vac. leak in your A/C system from bad vac. motors, you will have the same Prob. again!
You are correct that the only function is to divert when A/C is on. It will be easy to find the elbow from someone to swap out if you go that route.
__________________
"If you do everything you'll win" -LBJ 13 Smiles per Gallon: 66 Bonneville wagon 66 Bonneville 2d HT - In perpetual progress |
#3
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60.00?
40.00 -50.00 Got a pic of this valve? IIRC the one I bought from Carquest was 40.00 or so, had it the next day. It fit either 63-70 or 65-70 with OE A/C. Mike
__________________
so many pontiacs, so little time.................. moderator is a glorified word for an unappreciated prick.................. "Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former." --Albert Einstein "There is no such thing as a good tax." "We contend that for a nation to tax itself into prosperity is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle." - Winston Churchill |
#4
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http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...+control+valve
Thanks for the replies. I think I have talked myself into just putting an elbow in it for now, I'll keep my eyes open for for the proper valve at a later date. I'd like to, maybe, restore the AC (just so it works) but have never diagnosed what (if anything) is wrong with it. I assume that the compressor is leaky, but I don't know that for sure. Lord knows what else is leaky. Our Local Ace Hardware has a billion and a half different types of elbows and valves and fittings... I'd be floored if they didn't have something. Thanks again, MK |
#5
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Oh, and I will probably shorten the vac line up at the heater control head, and plug it with a screw.
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#6
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BTW, detailed pics of the OEM system (prior to changes) would be useful for archive purposes.
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#7
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Quote:
MK |
#8
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Quote:
When I suggested pics I meant pics uploaded to this discussion thread... |
#9
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mkoser-I love my Ace Hardware store !! I don't know how many fittings, screws, bolts, etc I've gotten there that are now in my 65 Cat. They always seem to have what I need.
Jim
__________________
65 Catalina sedan. Allen Thomas Performance 495. KRE Heads at 310cfm ported by SD Performance, ProSystems Dominator carb on ported Victor intake, P-Dude custom grind hydraulic roller, MSD ignition, 3.50 Moser/Ford rear. F-Glass front bumper by son Rob, rear by the old man and joint effort for trunk lid. 3950# w/driver. Best of 9.5761/139 on 175 shot, 6.01 /114 in 1/8. |
#10
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Before, with original valve. Original valve, notice the leak and the rust. After, with my modification. I just removed the valve and put in an elbow. Took the fam out for dinner, and a 65 mile round trip. No leaks. I know, I know. The blue paint is not original, or correct... I did that in 1999. There was some surface rust showing, and wanted to preserve it. The can of paint was still in the trunk, so I painted the new elbow to match! MK |
#11
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I know, I know. The blue paint is not original, or correct.
I dont get it, looks like my 63 color? when did they change to metallic blue? 66? anyway, looks good. If the air door is not sufficient for summer, put a $3 manual valve in from Harbor Fright |
#12
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Quote:
I was thinking about putting a manual valve on it, we'll see how hot it gets in the summer. Thanks, MK |
#13
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Quote:
By 'manual valve', are you referring to a 1/4-turn plumbing valve of some kind? Does the '61-'64 cooling system suffer if the heater hose is blocked on a regular-production, DRIVEN car? (OK, the SD cars had them blocked off but those aren't exactly on the same wavelength as a family sedan.) BTW, I think the paint works fine...anyone who would bust your chops about the specific shade of paint is probably not driving his car and instead thrives on criticizing those who do! |
#14
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Quote:
By manual valve, I was thinking of something that my 69 Ford F250 has. It's just a valve on one of the heater hoses. On or Off.. I don't think the cooling system will suffer either way. On my 64, the only time the Valve was in the "open" position is when the temp selector was in the "heat" zone. Probably 98% of the time it was never open. I rarely drive the car when there is a need for heat. Yeah, I know what you mean about the paint... I just feel that, since I don't know all of you all that well yet, I have to make sure that I'm not misrepresenting myself. I'm not an expert car restorer, not even close. I restored this car with a budget in mind, and a threw a cheap paint job on the car (and the motor in 1999) just to make it a little more decent. I don't care if it gets a nick or a scratch, I enjoy the hell out of it. Thanks again, MK |
#15
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Quote:
Mike
__________________
so many pontiacs, so little time.................. moderator is a glorified word for an unappreciated prick.................. "Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former." --Albert Einstein "There is no such thing as a good tax." "We contend that for a nation to tax itself into prosperity is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle." - Winston Churchill |
#16
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one on ebay for 63-64 idem number 3205021133
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#17
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Somebody should nab it. I went for about 4 years without seeing one & now there have been a half dozen in the last 6 mos. It was hard to find the original bronze unit with the correct diaphragm.
__________________
"If you do everything you'll win" -LBJ 13 Smiles per Gallon: 66 Bonneville wagon 66 Bonneville 2d HT - In perpetual progress |
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