[c.w. fields]

Car is completely original and has always been garaged. No reaction when moving temperature selector to a/c or heat. No blower motor coming on. Doesn't have power at fuse although fuse is good as is fuse on back of alternator. Relay is fairly new but plug in harness has gotten hot at connection on relay facing engine. Could this be a common problem and is there a common spot to look at? Thanks

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Does the temp light come on (bulb check) while cranking?

The ignition switch has two hot/battery wires going to it. One in each plastic connector.
One end of the ignition switch is for crank, run and powers most but not all of the fuse box.
The other end of the ignition switch does the heater fuse power.

So, need to check for power going in and coming out of the ignition switch to power the heater fuse. Could be that one end of the ignition switch, burnt or loose terminals, etc...

Fuse at alternator is for high speed blower. Low fan speeds and the high speed fan relay are suppose to work off the fuse that you've got dead.

As a test, I'ld be tempted to power up that dead fuse with a fused jumper wire from a B+ source to see if the heater controls start working. If everything works as it should.....start your search for the power loss.

HTH Clay

[c.w. fields]

Thank You so much for your quick reply to my question. I have gauges for temp and oil and when cranking the generator light does light up. I will start the search and power up the fuse for the a/c heat control. I am also wondering about the line from the back of the alternator to the relay and will have to unravel the electrical tape around it. Thanks again.

[c.w. fields]

So I ran a hot wire to the side of the a/c heat fuse and the blower motor works all speeds but high. With that information can you point me in the direction of where the break in power may be. Thanks, CW

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

The ignition switch has two hot/battery wires going to it. One in each plastic connector.
One end of the ignition switch is for crank, run and powers most but not all of the fuse box.
The other end of the ignition switch does the heater fuse power.

So, need to check for power going in and coming out of the ignition switch to power the heater fuse. Could be that one end of the ignition switch, burnt or loose terminals, etc...

Fuse at alternator is for high speed blower. Low fan speeds and the high speed fan relay are suppose to work off the fuse that you've got dead.

Originally Posted by c.w. fields

So I ran a hot wire to the side of the a/c heat fuse and the blower motor works all speeds but high. With that information can you point me in the direction of where the break in power may be. Thanks, CW

My wiring diagram shows an orange wire running from the ignition switch to the heater/fan fuse in the back of the fuse box.
Got to remember the ignition switch has TWO ends that operate independently of each other. Each end has its own red power supply wire.
So...ignition switch is where I would look first. Check for red being hot all the time and orange hot with the switch turned on. Could be the switch or terminals just used up and not making a good connection. Might try reaching up and wiggling the wires and connectors at the ignition switch while you have a test light hooked to the heater/fan fuse. If it's just a loose terminal you might get a blink on your test light. Still gonna need fixed right if you get a blink.

High speed blower is the wire comming off the back of the alternator going to the blower relay. So need to check for power on both ends of that wire. It should be hot at all times.

Post back what you find and will come up with something to check if the relay is bad or if power isn't making it from the heater controls out to the relay to trip the relay and turn on high speed blower..(that's a run on sentence)

Clay