#61  
Old 06-27-2020, 06:32 PM
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VHT color looks great

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Old 07-07-2020, 08:22 PM
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I'm going with the VHT. I am regretting this decision to change the grey. It's sooooo tedious. I've been using 3M fine line tape around the spokes and it takes about two hours to mask and prep a wheel. The bummer is the paint lifted when I put clear on my first wheel and I have to redo it I think I didn't wait long enough for the first coat to cure. Going to wait a couple days before I clear this one - and I'll do a test on a piece of scrap.

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Last edited by Verdoro 68; 07-07-2020 at 08:34 PM.
  #63  
Old 07-07-2020, 09:53 PM
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Sorry I couldn't chime in sooner and say do not paint them!

Oh boy.


Your best bet is to have them airbrushed by a professional wheel repair guy. Way better paint with hardener than the paint from spray cans I have learned.

But honestly I love the rim color as is.

  #64  
Old 07-07-2020, 10:49 PM
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Too late now, I’m committed. The VHT wheel paint paint actually lays down pretty well for a spray bomb. It's polyurethane, but we’ll see how it lasts. The Eastwood lacquer on my stock RIIs has lasted almost 20 years with a handful of nicks here and there.

FWIW, I like the color on the wheels from the factory too. I just feel like there are certain angles where it blends in so I wanted a shade darker. We'll see if it was worth the effort.

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Last edited by Verdoro 68; 07-07-2020 at 11:24 PM.
  #65  
Old 07-16-2020, 01:03 AM
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Finally finished up painting the wheels. Aside from a hiccup where I had to sand down and repaint one of the 17x10s, I'm happy with the end product. Lesson learned: follow the VHT instructions exactly and it works well. The difference in color is pretty dang subtle, especially at an angle. I probably should have gone with one of the darker grays. Tires from Diamondback should arrive tomorrow then I can actually get these things on the car instead of looking at them.





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'68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - 3.55 posi (build thread | walk around)
'95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics)
  #66  
Old 07-16-2020, 07:08 AM
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Ken,

Nice work. They look grrrrrrrrrreat.....

  #67  
Old 07-16-2020, 10:06 PM
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I'm getting there!

I didn't realize the OEM-style lugnuts are a bigger stud diameter than the stockers until I went to install them. Not sure why they did that, but I'm not swapping out all the studs. Annoying. For now, I'm using the stock ones which seem to be holding things down just fine. Lug nuts aren't something I want to take a chance on so I'll have to figure out what I want to do there. Also, the sticky wheel weight fell off the right rear wheel when I was installing it so back to the tire shop it goes. Better check them all.

I'll probably be ordering up some 1" lowering springs soon, but all in all I'm happy.












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'68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - 3.55 posi (build thread | walk around)
'95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics)
  #68  
Old 07-16-2020, 11:19 PM
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Very Nice!!

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  #69  
Old 07-17-2020, 06:59 AM
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They even look better install.
Beautiful

  #70  
Old 07-17-2020, 10:46 AM
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Came out beautiful!

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  #71  
Old 07-17-2020, 12:29 PM
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Thanks. I appreciate all the guidance and help in this thread, that had a lot to do with how it came out. My wife and daughter are confused why I spent so much time and money for something that looks like the old wheels. I told them that's the cool part!

Figured out my lug nut situation. They offer 7/16" and 1/2" but only publicize the 1/2" version in black for some reason. I have the 7/16" ones on order.

Started looking at lowering springs last night. It looks ok as is, but I think I'd like to close the gap between the wheel well lip and the tire a bit - especially in the front. I'm thinking UMI 1" drop springs, but maybe I'll drive it for a bit before I make up my mind.

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'68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - 3.55 posi (build thread | walk around)
'95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics)
  #72  
Old 07-17-2020, 02:30 PM
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Looks sharp!!! And when you lower it an inch and it will be spot on stance wise.

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Old 07-18-2020, 08:24 PM
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The Rally II's with the redlines looks really nice. Classic at first glance and then you realize they're upsized.

My car is black and I found the Rally II centers too light a grey for my liking, so I went with the Bandits. I was able to order them from Discount tire for the same price as the best I found on-line including Ebay. This was a couple years ago and the Year One's were at least $100 a wheel higher than the bandits at that time. I found some arrowhead center caps that fit inside the recess on the Bandit caps for a more OEM look than the plain caps the wheels came with.


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  #74  
Old 07-19-2020, 09:45 AM
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Bandit center cap

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  #75  
Old 07-19-2020, 04:45 PM
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I'd get set of ET Team III Vintage wheels in 15 x 8 with a back space of 5". Then get a set of 255/60 r 15 Cooper Cobra tires and have Diamond back remove all the side wall print. They will look vintage.

Besides you will need to install modern front upper and lower control arms with tall ball joints to remove the reverse camber during jounce condition that all GM A bodys had...

http://www.etmags.com/classic_v.html


Last edited by 389; 04-25-2022 at 05:43 PM.
  #76  
Old 07-20-2020, 02:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint View Post
The Rally II's with the redlines looks really nice. Classic at first glance and then you realize they're upsized.

My car is black and I found the Rally II centers too light a grey for my liking, so I went with the Bandits. I was able to order them from Discount tire for the same price as the best I found on-line including Ebay. This was a couple years ago and the Year One's were at least $100 a wheel higher than the bandits at that time. I found some arrowhead center caps that fit inside the recess on the Bandit caps for a more OEM look than the plain caps the wheels came with.

That's funny, I thought the inserts on the Bandit were too dark. I also preferred to slot design on the YO Rallys as they're closer to the originals, but generally they're very similar appearing wheels. The Bandits seem like a little better value, probably lighter too. Nice job on the center caps, they look good.

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'68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - 3.55 posi (build thread | walk around)
'95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics)
  #77  
Old 07-20-2020, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Verdoro 68 View Post
That's funny, I thought the inserts on the Bandit were too dark. I also preferred to slot design on the YO Rallys as they're closer to the originals, but generally they're very similar appearing wheels. The Bandits seem like a little better value, probably lighter too. Nice job on the center caps, they look good.
Thanks!

Yeah, "none more black" which is what I was after with my black and silver color scheme. I also liked the smaller hubs which show more of the ventilated rotors. The Rally II's would probably have looked good too but I was stuck on the black and they were a lot cheaper at the time.

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Old 07-25-2020, 04:42 PM
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Got the UMI 1" lowering springs installed. The new rear springs were about 1" higher than the ones I took out (90's Moog I think?). The front springs were a few inches shorter than the stockers. I have a couple issues:

1) The bottom edge of the left front fender cuts into the tire when turning hard right. Oddly, the right side has about 1" clearance. This wasn't an issue with my 14" setup. I'm not sure what's going on here or what could be causing this.

2) The front looks like it's sitting too high with the new springs - maybe higher than it was before. I took care to make sure they were cocked correctly in the pocket, but maybe there's not. They could be perched in the upper part of the frame cock-eyed too, I didn't check that too closely. It sits about 27-3/4 from ground to fender lip on the drivers side and 28-1/4" on the passenger side so something is wrong. Guess I'll dissect the front end again and see what's going on. The good news is the 3" shorter springs are a breeze to deal with.

I also had to take all the wheels back to the tire shop to get rebalanced because a bunch of the sticky weights fell off. On the plus side, I got the right sized lugs from Year One this time. This has not been a breezy project.









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'68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - 3.55 posi (build thread | walk around)
'95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics)
  #79  
Old 07-25-2020, 08:59 PM
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Alright, I think this is about as good as it's going to get unless I cut the springs or go to a 2" drop. Reseated the springs and got it down to 26-3/4" street to fender lip which gives me about 2-1/2" between the bottom of the fender and the top fo the tire. Maybe they'll settle a bit more, but I'm not counting on it.

I remembered the wheel well trim on the driver's side was a repro. At closer inspection there was some extra stainless hanging over the fender where it was catching so I trimmed it down. It clears the tire now, but barely. Not sure why I have so much more space on the passenger side. Glad I didn't go any bigger on the tires.











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'68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - 3.55 posi (build thread | walk around)
'95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics)
  #80  
Old 07-25-2020, 10:02 PM
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Your set up is looking good with that level stance. If you were to go with a 2" drop on the front it would solve your clearance issues, moving the centerline of the tire above the bottom of the front fender lip.
I just went through these same issues with mine, using springs from BMR. Originally I installed 1" drop front and 2" drop rear but the front ended up only about 1/2" lower. I didn't want to cut them so installed 2" front drop springs resulting in a 3" drop. Frustrating but I finally got it where I wanted using Global West spacers on the 3" drop springs. Problem now is I need to drop the rear another inch and you can't do much with these closed end rear springs.
The good news is these stiffer springs and wider tires give a much improved ride.

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