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#41
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#42
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Yup, here's a picture from my "baby got new shoes" thread with the springs and new wheels/tires installed
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#43
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Hello forum friends,
Decided to just bite the bullet and order new springs for the front, back and few other tiny items from Ames. Really appreciated all the feedback Tom |
#44
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Let us know how things shake out in the end.
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1966 Pontiac GTO (restoration thread) 1998 BMW 328is (track rat) 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited (daily) View my photos: Caught in the Wild |
#45
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I sure will and I will post before and after pictures.
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#46
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I could probably use new front springs for my '68 but I've seen so many here put new springs on and get the 4x4 look. I would be pretty po'd if I went through all that work and wound up not liking it. Looking forward to pics.
By the way, I was looking at the GTO resto manual and noticed that in '72 one model...can't remember now, HO maybe?.... anyway, it called for rocker height to be 10.5" front and 10" rear. Never noticed that before.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#47
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Quote:
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#48
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Great company to work with. |
#49
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Hello Guys,
Went to install the new rear Ames coil springs and they are shorter then the ones I just pulled out. Do you think theses are correct or did they send me the wrong ones? I talked to Ames on the phone before I place my online ordered. These are supposed to be the firm ones. Sure hope they sent me right fronts coils. Feedback welcomed Thanks Tom |
#50
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Top view
New coil spring diameter is larger |
#51
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Spring free height isn't a solid indicator of compressed height or "ride height," unless the springs going in the car are exactly the same spring rate as the springs coming out of the car.
The factory springs in these cars don't have a lot of rate in them and so they need to be taller because they will compress further. I can tell you just by looking at the pictures, that the new spring has a good bit more spring rate in it. Without knowing what the spring rate of the stock equipment is and the spring rate of the new spring, it's impossible to say if you'll achieve a similar ride height to what you have currently, or if you'll see a lowered ride height. I'm assuming you purchased part S364. It's labeled as a stock height spring. I would bet you're going to be pretty close in ride height, you may see a small drop or a small increase in height depending on the condition of the spring and if it's lost any of it's rate over the years.
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-Jason 1969 Pontiac Firebird |
#52
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My twin and I installed the new rear springs, hooked up shocks but springs are loose in the perches.
Put tires on lowered car and took some measure. Measures at 9.25". I know they will settle over time. My concern is when the car is put on a frame lift the springs will drop out of the perches. Has anyone else run in this problem? Thanks Tom |
#53
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Hi Jason,
Thanks for the feedback Yes the springs are S364. |
#54
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Moving right along. Have drive side front almost all the way apart. Just need to get upper control arm off.
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#55
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You also have to measure the wire thickness of springs when comparing. The Ames rear springs may have used thicker wire.
I had springs made here for my GTO. I wanted a slightly firmer ride, & car a bit lower. So had springs made with wire a couple of mm thicker. From memory, my front springs are 17mm wire. Mate had 19mm front springs made for his LeMans, too harsh for my liking. |
#56
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Tom
Another factor to consider in looking at the old springs vs the new springs is - are the old springs really the original springs or were they replaced with brand X springs sometime over the last 50 years. I've had my GTO for 28 years and I replaced both front and rear springs twice since I purchased the car for $600 in 1998. Put new correct springs front and rear in back in 1994 during a frame off resto, but didn't like the factory lower in the rear look on my convertible so had some custom coils made .75" over stock in 1995. In 2013, replaced the front springs with Koni coilovers when I added GW tubular A arms and Wilwood disc brakes. Photo of my car the day I brought it home below. I do think that the springs were the originals.... |
#57
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Good Morning Guy,
Last night I tackled the passenger side. The upper control arm was not the easiest to get at the nuts (A/C car) to break loose. When they did finally break loose they were just spinning then I realized they broke loose from the frame. I know these are suppose to be pressed in. Should I order new bolts and nuts or could I still use the old ones and knock them back in with some lock-tight? Passenger spring has this tag on it. Is this a factor tag? Could these be possibility the factor springs? Ok sorry about the sideways pictures. They are straight up/down on my laptop |
#58
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Quote:
__________________
1978 Black & Gold T/A [complete 70 Ram Air III (carb to pan) PQ and 12 bolt], fully loaded, deluxe, WS6, T-Top car - 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air numbers matching Julep Green - 1971 T/A 455, 320 CFM Eheads, RP cam, Doug's headers, Fuel injection, TKX 5 Spd. 12 Bolt 3.73, 4 wheel disc. All A/C cars |
#59
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FrankieT/A,
The bushings on the control arms I believe are original and are in poor shape. I figured while I am in there replacing the springs I thought I may as well tackle the bushings now. Also as I was digging into all this I notice the stabilizer bar bushings are bad, stabilizer links are also in need of replacement as well. Some of the steering components have a little play in them but not to bad to worry about right now. Does anyone know what the stock stabilizer diameter is? I will be ordering parts soon and want to make sure I get the correct bushing. Thanks Tom |
#60
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Measure your stabilizer with an open end wrench.
__________________
1978 Black & Gold T/A [complete 70 Ram Air III (carb to pan) PQ and 12 bolt], fully loaded, deluxe, WS6, T-Top car - 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air numbers matching Julep Green - 1971 T/A 455, 320 CFM Eheads, RP cam, Doug's headers, Fuel injection, TKX 5 Spd. 12 Bolt 3.73, 4 wheel disc. All A/C cars |
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