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#1
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67 gto starter bracket brace
My starter went bad so I’m gonna have it rebuilt. I’m not a professional mechanic...lol
My car is a original HO car with the original ho manifolds.looking under the car i see the two bolts holding the starter and I can see the starter brace Holding the front of the starter . How do I get that off ? Looks like a royal pain !! |
#2
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hopefully ... just pull the nut off the starter and pry the bracket back till u get clearance
the other end is on the motor mount bolt this is a 350 hangin from my picker .... basically the same I think your wiring runs to the front of the motor make sure you have all the slack you can find for the wiring ... also make sure you have a stack of blocks under the car to set the starter on.. it will barely make it to the bottom of the oil pan before you start stressing the wires... snap a few pictures of the wire locations and the angle they sit at for reference going back together ... use the best solenoid you can ,,, even buy a delco one on line ,,,, good luck ... Scott |
#3
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Not fun
I don’t see how I can pry back that bracket without breaking the stud off the starter. It’s a Halloween starter ! Last edited by gto19; 11-23-2019 at 10:47 AM. |
#4
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You take the nut off of the starter stud and pry the support bracket towards the front of the car. If the bolt holding the support bracket is too tight to pry the bracket forward a swivel socket can usually be used to loosen it a bit.
BTW. on lots of GM cars many people deem the bracket too tough to re-install and leave it off. Failure to re-install the bracket can lead to breaking a section of the block out where the outer starter bolt threads into the block, rendering the block pretty useless. It doesn't always happen (plenty of GM engines driving with the bracket removed), but once is too many, and there isn't any way to cheat the repair once the block cracks. Picture of broken block where starter attaches: |
#5
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Thanks guys
I’m gonna tow it to my mechanic and pay him.hes gotta a Lift . Bummer we just replaced the original motor mounts and resurfaced the exhaust manifolds last week . I knew I shoulda had it rebuilt then . My mechanic even mentioned it . |
#6
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All the above suggestions are good.
As Scott says, have plenty of slack in the two starter wires and battery cable, and blocks to set the starter on in this process. I use a long extension with socket to remove the nut off the support stud. The support bracket has an oval hole for wiggle room. When the two large starter bolts are removed, the starter (with support stud) literally slides out and down enough to remove the wires. Works every time on these GTOs.
__________________
1) 65 GTO Survivor. 43,440 Original Miles. “Factory” Mayfair Maize Paint with Black Pinstripe, Black Cordova Top, Black Interior, OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Purchased from the Lady that bought it new. Baltimore Built (11A). 2) 66 GTO Survivor. “Factory” Cameo Ivory Paint with Red Pinstripe, Red Interior. OEM Numbers Matching Powertrain. Tri-Power (OEM Vacuum Linkage), Automatic "YR" code (1759 Produced). Fremont Built (01B), with the Rare 614 Option. Last edited by 60sstuff; 11-23-2019 at 02:56 PM. |
#7
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I never even knew this bracket existed. I have had a 65 GTO, 65 Lemanns, 65 Tempest and my current 66 GTO and none of these have had the bracket. Another part I need now.
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#8
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Ok
So I dont have to pry the support bracket back ?just remove the nut |
#9
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Remove the nut, and pry it towards the front of the car. Two operations.
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#10
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I don’t know if I can pry it forward. My mechanic a few weeks ago put new motor mounts on and probably cranked that nut down really hard
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#11
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Then loosen it, I already posted if you can't pry it forward then you may have to loosen the bolt.
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#12
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Hi
it should move just enuf
heres how far mine moved.... enuf for the nose to clear and drop the 1107355 delco remy starter out.... yah its out of the car but still a good visual ... |
#13
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This job was kinda tricky . All your tips were spot on . I did completely unclip the wiring harness at all spots so the harness could pull all the way forward. Also removed the exhaust manifold flange . Also used blue locktite on the solonoid studs . Also I positioned the wires at the solonoid at the 10-11 o’clock position towards the block and away from the manifold. It Took another friend to pull the wires forward while I wrestled the starter back into place . I couldn’t of done it by myself. It’s a very tight fit getting the wires to move in that tube . Tough job with the HO manifold being so big right next to the starter but happy with the results.
Last edited by gto19; 12-17-2019 at 10:44 AM. |
#14
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I use a small aluminum floor jack to support mine.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
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