[Dave from England]

Thanks for reminding me of that Brewster I do remember when pulling mine apart some 15 years ago that there was undercoating on the firewall because it was allover the vin tag and made it difficult to read.I just thought that it had been done by a previous owner but couldnt figure out why.As it is a numbers matching car Im trying to replicate factory with out going over the top.For example I have the correct rally 11 wheels but they dont have the correct date stampings but appearance wise theyre O K .I wonder if its possible for someone to post pictures of a car done like this then I can make up my mind what to do,after all I dont want to shoot undercoating everywhere on the firewall & it be incorrect and look a mess into the bargain.Thanks once again Brewster for bringing this to my attention
Dave

[guccieng]

vin tag or trim tag? the vin should be in the forward door jamb.

[Dave from England]

Trim tag "new Id made a mistake" just couldnt think what they called it when I was doing the post.Thanks for correcting me
Dave

[Dave from England]

ANYBODY have information or pictures of undercoating on the firewall of the 67 Firebird & has anybody information as to where else on the car the factory used undercoating so I can do this before I do any more assembly
Dave

[guccieng]

i don't think i've ever seen any.

[Dave from England]

In order to get a good deluxe steering wheel it was necessary to buy a second one and make one good one out of two. This was of course, several years ago, and I now have horn push button parts for two steering wheels and find I have some small nylon parts that I am not exactly sure where they go. It looks like I could use the black plastic parts as they are and if I use the chrome push buttons it looks like the nylon parts push into the slots at the back of the chrome push buttons. Can someone verify that my thinking is correct?

See attached thumbnail.

Also, I cannot believe how bad a fitting the chrome spokes are to the spokes of the wheel, no wonder these always seem to brake at the ends which are hidden by the centre cap. Has anyone got a method or remed to support these spokes in order to stop them braking off at the ends?

And thirdly, what is the best way to re-wire the push button contacts to the terminals that are rivetted on? I would think that maybe soldering is the answer. Has anyone got other ideas?

Thanking you in anticipation.
Dave

[Dave from England]

Progress with th restoration has been slow for the past few weeks as I am waiting for correct hardware for the bellhousing, rear bumper brackets, sender unit for the gas tank and a small screw for the glove box lock. These will hopefully be with me by the begining of next week as my friend is bringing them with him when he returns from the States on Thursday. In the meantme, I am trying to get some of the smaller jobs done, like putting the centre caps in the rally II wheels. Can someone advise me of the best way to fit these as it looks like a prying with the screwdriver job.

Dave.

[Old Goat 67]

They are a bugger.

Couldn't find it PY's catalog, but Ames has ;
Part #T100T
1967-70 Rally II Locking Attaching Hardware (APE) . 6.00/ea.
Note:One T100T locking kit required per cap.
Our T100T lock design allows centers to be bolted firmly in place making
loose fit, scratching and theft virtually impossible.

[Dave from England]

NEED HELP before I can make progress with the restoration
1 Before mounting the rear bumper do I need to afix the rear license plate bracket & the license plate light to the bumper
2 When installing the gas tank sender unit does the rubber gasket fit underneath the sender unit or on top and what position is the tab on the gasket placed
3 Can someone describe how to juggle into place gas tank filler tube and the rubber sleeve that goes over it . If I can get answers to all three queries then I can make some real progress & I ll post some pictures
Dave

[Birdguy]

I will try to answer your questions as best I can.

1) I haven't arrived at that point in my own restoration, but it makes sense to me to go ahead and mount whatever needs to be mounted to the bumper prior to its installation. You will less likely to have to remove the bumper to get to a hard-to-reach bolt or area.

2) The gasket goes between the sending unit and the tank. There should be a corresponding gap in the tank ring to accept the tab on the gasket.

3) Easier to do than to describe. IIRC I slipped the rubber sleeve over the filler tube, "scrunched" it up towards the flanged end, slipped the lower part of the tube into the side opening of the brace and worked it around and down until it was happy. Like I said, easier to do than to describe.

Good luck.

[Dave from England]

Hi Birdguy
Thanks for your responce havnt had much help from the forum latlley so it was nice to get a responce.Im probably no further along with my restoration than you its just that Ive probably gone about it with a different plan of attack than you ie Ive got the rear bumper on you havnt Youve got the gas tank in I hav nt (not just yet anyways) This may sound like a domb question but I have to ask it does the gas tank filler tube fit on the outside of the trunk where the gas filler door is or does it fit inside the trunk.If it fits on the outside problem solved if it fits on the inside problem just begining.The reason I asked about fixing the numberplate bracket and license plate light to the bumper before mounting the bumper is that I have all of the original license plate lamp except the wireing pig tail and I didnt want to have to remove the cocktail shakers & the bumper just for a small wireing job.Do you or anyone else no where I can get the wireing pigtail from Im sure you could by this at one time but it seems to have been discontinued and I dont want to have to buy the whole of the assembly just for the sake of the lamp holder two grommets & 12" of wire
Dave

[Birdguy]

Dave, yes the whole filler tube is internal with the flange fitting up to the inner part of the rear panel. One thing I did differently on mine was to have the screws holding the flange to the panel attaching from the outside rather than the inside.

Regarding the license bracket and the light, take a look at the attachment and maybe it will make it clearer to you.

As for the wire, I don't know of a source for a replacement, but perhaps you can fabricate a replacement with the proper guage wire.

I will send a post after this one with a couple of photos of my car.

[Birdguy]

Dave, a couple more photos to show you. Of course, the filler tube is inside the rubber boot. One is to show the short hose that attaches the lower end of the filler tube with the fuel tank neck. Hope these help.

[Dave from England]

Birdguy Thanks for the information & the photos.Yes I had mine all wrong although the way I had it with the flange & the rbber sleeve on the outside of the tail panel made it easy to assemble the flange fitted flush & the tag on the rubber sleeve was acting as a bumber for the gas filler flap.However with great difficulty Ive changed it to how yours is on the photos but the flange does not fit flush to the tail panel guess I ll have to pull it in with the screws & I cant for the life in me figure out what that tab on the rubber sleeve is for.It proved a little difficult scunching up the rubber sleeve because it something like 5 degrees below freezing in the shop & the rubber sleeve was hard as a rock had to give it the heat gun treatment to make it plyable.did you drill out the holes so you could use bigger screws for the flange & if so what diameter did you drill them.I was going to install the gas tank but when I came to take the sender unit wire out of the packet it was so hard because of the cold that i couldnt uncoil it with out getting the heat gun on it & then after Id straightened it out & took the heat gun away from it became like a steel rod so Ill leave that for another day.So ive worked on the car for about 4& a half hours & Im just about where I was when I left It yesterday.Thought Id fix the top pump motor in place but its a replacement motor and the mounting holes are not in the same place as the original so dont line up with the holes in the original bracket
would appreceate ideas as to what others have done not that I wouldnt figure something out but Im sure it would save me a whole heap of time

[Hammered]

Sorry but this is the correct installation. Note that the rubber sleeve has an integral bumper for the gas door.

[Hammered]

On the bumper, the light bracket has to go on first. You can buy the electrical connectors and wire if that's what's missing. If I remember correctly, the wire terminates into a spring loaded button. If you can find a small (0.125") rivet, that will work just as well. I have an old light unit if you're interested.

On the top motor, I believe you can swap the reservoirs and the new one should mount like original. The reservoir side is the one with the triangular headed bolt through the very middle of the end. It's just a can that seals with an o-ring. I don't know where you are in the process, but if you assemble the hose and rams to the motor out of the car, you can more easily bleed them without the risk of getting oil in the car. Use clear power steering fluid instead of ATF to avoid having an ATF smell in your car.

[Birdguy]

Oops! Thanks for the correction. Guess what I'll be doing tomorrow.

[Dave from England]

HAMMERED Thank you ,thank you, thank you so glad it was too cold to put the gas tank sender unit wire on otherwise I would have had the gas tank installed by now . thought I had it right first time & I guess I did but Birdguy has been very helpful to me in the past so took his advice & changed mine to how he had his so guess what we are both doing now.With regards to the license plate lamp yes Id be interested in buying it of you its not just the wire part Im missing its also the internals of the bulb holder spring etc & the grommets although the grommets can be over come.As for the top pump motor I cant change the cannister as the replacement pump is what came with the car when I bought it 15 years ago & the spare pump Ive aquired is also a replacement type pump & Ive really no Idea how it was fitted when I tore down the car didnt take enough photos I guess but back then it was quite an expensive exersise no didgital cameras then
Dave

[Hammered]

Glad to help.

I'm out of town for two days, but will get you a picture of the light on Wednesday.

The original pumps had 3 rubber feet that mount into holes on the pump and car body. They press in and can be a PITA to get mounted on the interior car body.

The replacement pumps usually have 4 rubber feet, but you can switch them to 3 if you have an original reservoir. I believe the 3 footed pumps are now repro'd. You might also call a pump rebuilder to see what they can do for you. There are a couple here in the US.

[Dave from England]

Hammered thank you for your fast responce Im sure the license plate light is gonna be
O K Im familiar with how the original pumps fitted & yes both my replacement pump & the spare have the four grommets for mounting & no I dont have a spare resavoir & for me to get the pump rebuilt in the States is a real pain & to get it rebuilt in England is probably imposible so thats why I was asking what other peoples solution to the problem has been.I looked on your web site at your car when I first joined the forum & it seems your retoration has taken about the same amount of time as mine has so youll appreceate that now im on a roll I want to keep going & have it finished in time for summer 2011
Dave