| FAQ |
| Members List |
| Social Groups |
| Calendar |
| Search |
| Today's Posts |
|
#1
10-19-2002, 06:18 PM
|
||||
|
||||
I'm having a 1979 T/A disk brake rear axle installed under my 1978 T/A and the mechanic says the "bleeder valves" on the caliper housings are both seized. In short, he's unable to open the valves to bleed the brakes, which is a common problem on calipers that sat around for awhile (or so I'm told). He further advised he could heat them up in an attempt to free them, but doesn't like doing this procedure. After careful consideration he suggested purchasing new "loaded calipers" to resolve the problem.
I'd like to know if anyone has heard of this problem before. If so, does anyone know any tricks I could suggest to him. We also found out some bad news, as we couldn't find any place who carries "loaded" calipers for the 79 disk brake set-up. The mechanic will have to purchase the brake calipers and parts individually and then assemble them (more $) [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_frown.gif[/img]!!! Anyone know where I can find "loaded" calipers for a 79 disk brake set-up? Thanks in advance for any replies!! db ------------------------------------------------- Making a living is not the same thing as making a life!!
__________________
Making a living is not the same thing as making a life!! |
|
#2
10-19-2002, 06:18 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I'm having a 1979 T/A disk brake rear axle installed under my 1978 T/A and the mechanic says the "bleeder valves" on the caliper housings are both seized. In short, he's unable to open the valves to bleed the brakes, which is a common problem on calipers that sat around for awhile (or so I'm told). He further advised he could heat them up in an attempt to free them, but doesn't like doing this procedure. After careful consideration he suggested purchasing new "loaded calipers" to resolve the problem.
I'd like to know if anyone has heard of this problem before. If so, does anyone know any tricks I could suggest to him. We also found out some bad news, as we couldn't find any place who carries "loaded" calipers for the 79 disk brake set-up. The mechanic will have to purchase the brake calipers and parts individually and then assemble them (more $) [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_frown.gif[/img]!!! Anyone know where I can find "loaded" calipers for a 79 disk brake set-up? Thanks in advance for any replies!! db ------------------------------------------------- Making a living is not the same thing as making a life!!
__________________
Making a living is not the same thing as making a life!! |
|
#3
10-19-2002, 06:29 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Send them off to White Post Restorations to be rebuilt and sleeved with brass.
White Post dissuades the use of stainless steel to reline brake bores, as they feel the quality of foreign-supplied stainess is subpar. Do a Google search of "White Post Restorations" for their phone number. |
|
#4
10-19-2002, 07:17 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Frozen bleeders is a common problem. We usually disconnect the brake hose to allow the fluid to expand, we then heat the casting (with a SMALL flame)AROUND the bleeder, NOT the bleeder itself. Onec it is hot the bleeder will usually come out. If it will not, there is nothing lost as you will have to rebuild unit any way. You should not have to heat the casting for a long time , and the rest of the casting should not be very hot if you do this right.Oyx/Acc gas set up with a small tip will give you the best heat,a controled flame and the shortest time required to get that spot hot.
|
|
#5
10-20-2002, 08:37 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
never enough powers solution is one that will work.
if the bleeder doesn't come loose with the first heating spray it with some high quality penetrating oil while it's still hot and let it sit for a minute or so. reheat the area around the bleeder again and lightly bump the wrench [don't break the screw off] that you're using to break the bleeder loose and it should free up. i'd replace the bleeder screws after this procedure and coat the threads of the new ones with some never-seize or it's equvilent to help prevent this in the future.also you should put the rubber car back over the opening in the bleeder to help prevent dirt and moisture from entering it. mike
__________________
so many pontiacs, so little time.................. moderator is a glorified word for an unappreciated prick.................. "Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former." --Albert Einstein "There is no such thing as a good tax." "We contend that for a nation to tax itself into prosperity is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle." - Winston Churchill |
|
#6
10-21-2002, 06:08 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I was advised to try using a blunt punch in the air chisel and to bump around the bleeder. Supposed to actually back the fitting out.
|
|
#7
10-21-2002, 05:50 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Thanks for the advice and suggestions! However, I decided to purchase a new set of calipers and brake hardware. Not the cheapest route, but will probably be better in the long run.
Thanks again, db Making a living is not the same thing as making a life!!
__________________
Making a living is not the same thing as making a life!! |
| Reply |
|
|
The PY Online Forums is the largest online gathering of Pontiac enthusiasts anywhere in the world. Founded in 1991, it was also the first online forum for people to gather and talk about their Pontiacs. Since then, it has become the mecca of Pontiac technical data and knowledge that no other place can surpass.
Linear Mode
