Suspension TECH Including Brakes, Wheels and tires

          
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  #21  
Old 08-16-2002, 08:42 PM
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Dave, Thanks for the reply. As you said there are alot of variables whne designing a brake system from the master ot the wheel cylinders.It is a three channel ABS. My 92 just had rear ABS but always had decent pedal. The reasons for why the hard application works could sure be it and not the ABS. I almost wonder about making a shunt with an adjustable prop valve around the ABS to allow some higher pressure to the rears.

After adjusting the rears the pedal is better for quite a while , maybe 3-5000 miles. But I've never had a GM car or truck that had to have a manual rear brake adjustment that often.

Maybe a R-P valve would be that extra boost to engage the rears faster. I know all the older disc/drum cars and trucks had them in the master cylinder itself.

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1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever!
1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand
1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project
2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4
1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project
1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs
  #22  
Old 08-17-2002, 11:35 PM
Dave A Dave A is offline
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Hmmm, with pedal feel improving noticeably after an adjustment, and an adjustment lasting 3000-5000 miles, it sounds like the adjusters are not working under normal use. I wonder if there are any finer-toothed adjusters that will work with this drum brake - finer teeth allow finer adjustment, and allow adjustment with smaller movements of the shoes.

You can check and see if the good pedal after ABS activation is related to the ABS or rather just the high pressure seen during ABS operation by pulling the ABS fuse and doing some low speed, very hard (not quick, ramp into it) applies in a safe place. If pedal feel improves after this, you know that the pedal feel is not related to any ABS valving activity. If you do very hard static (vehicle not moving) applies and pedal feel improves, then it may even be related to the front calipers (since the vehicle usually needs to be moving to get the drum adjusters to work).

  #23  
Old 08-20-2002, 12:07 AM
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I received my friction reduction kit. The kit contains a new set of disc brake pads for the front, four spings, 16 flat washers.

The springs are mounted between the disc brake pads. The washers are mounted on the inside of the inside brake pad. The spring goes over the bolt and then is supported on each end by the brake pads. The washer is used on the inside brake pad only. You may use up to four washers to add spring pressure.

Not really a problem to install the parts. I finally ended up with two washers. This set up keeps the brake pads from resting against the rotor and thus, decrease friction.

Yes it does work. The disc pads are a hair away from the rotor and the rotor does turn more freely than before. There will be some performance gain but how much could prove tough to calculate. At this point I would say I'm happy with the kit. It has done what I wanted at a minimum of expense. The directions are not very good but they can be figured out.

I will take the car racing on September 14 and see if it makes a difference. It will be very tough to calculate as I have made some other changes to the car as well. Again, it has decreased the friction on the rotor and when I physically push the car it is easier.

At this point I would recommend the kit for drag racing. The kit is $29.00 and is not a pocket book breaker.

Ron

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  #24  
Old 08-26-2002, 05:56 PM
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I had my GTO out this weekend, washing and waxing. Since installing the "Friction Reduction Kit" I have noticed two things. First, my pedal travel is a little longer, just a smidgen, not much. Second, the car is much easier to push around without the drag on the rotors.

Ron

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  #25  
Old 08-26-2002, 07:21 PM
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Dave A and Skip. Check out my question in the "expert brake advice needed" thread. I have a '92 GMC 1/2 ton truck that has troublesome rear brakes.

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  #26  
Old 08-26-2002, 09:47 PM
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Pushing my 78 with the factory 4WD is a bear in the staging lanes.

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Skip Fix
1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever!
1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand
1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project
2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4
1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project
1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs
  #27  
Old 09-26-2002, 10:28 AM
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I have had a chance to race my car with the friction reduction kit installed. Poor time to make comparisons with my prior runs. Temperature at the track was between 104 and 106 degrees and the adjusted density altitude was as high as 6600 feet. So not a good day to do comparisons.

However - I do feel that I have reduced my rolling resistance or friction. I noticed in the lanes the car is much easier to push and when I stop pushing it it rolls much farther.

For me I feel the friction reduction kit was worth the money but I can't provide anyone with hard facts or evidence that it is better for my performance, other than a seat of the pants or experience asessment. Would I buy it again and install it again, YES.

Good luck with your project.

Ron


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